Which outside tap and how to replace?

[udaman]

Hi

My outside tap broke the other day. At least I think it did - it just started running water by itself and wouldn't turn off. So we've had the water off at the main stop cock since.

I'd usually just call in a plumber but no one can come quickly and I want to start doing more of these things myself anyway.

So firstly can anyone recommend what I should get? Are the cheap ones at Screwfix any good (they get good reviews)? If so, what's the difference between these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/outside-tap- ... mm-x/37241

https://www.screwfix.com/p/outside-tap- ... mm-x/41948

What's a double check valve?

Or would I be better off with a lever tap (less to go wrong?):

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-pb50- ... mm-x/6263v

Happy to spend more if it's worth it though.

Do I need to buy anything else?

In terms of how to replace it, I'll look it up once I've got the tap, but any words of wisdom in the meantime would be much appreciated.

Many thanks

[Bob225]

A standard bibcock and backplate will do the job, as in your first link

A double check valve stops the tap pulling back air or nasty water back into the house

[Someone-Else]

Bit of PTFE tape might be of use.

[wine~o]

Fairly simple job but you must have a double check valve either in the supply or the tap.

I'd also install an isolation valve in the supply to the outside tap, chances are it has failed due to freezing, water expands as it freezes and can break the pipework or the tap itself,by isolating it over winter/below freezing with the tap open then you won't get these problems.

As S-e says you will need a roll of PTFE tape, you'll find that getting the replacement tap aligned in the correct orientation (spout downwards) will require a bit of trial and error, wrap some PTFE around the shaft / threads and try it, add more PTFE as required until the tap is in the correct position when tightened.

[udaman]

Ok, thank you. We had some other work that needed doing and the local plumbers had a cancellation so have fit us in to do all the work including the tap. He's here now!

Someone said that the double check valve should be inside the property. Is that actually regs or just considered good practice? If he goes to just fit a tap with valve should I ask him to not and to put the valve indoors instead, with a standard tap? I'd feel a bit awkward telling any tradesman their job, but then again I want it done right.

Great idea re the isolation valve. Someone said to also get a drain off point installed, I guess to get rid of every last drop before isolating. Is that necessary would you say and should I ask him to do those? We'll be having the kitchen redone later this year, so would it be best to wait until then instead?

Cheers

[toolbox]

Regarding getting the tap to tighten up in the right place, you might try loctite 555 better than ptfe it bulks up better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJeqbuJHRuk

[udaman]

In the end he just replaced the tap like for like. No isolation valve on the inside. No new bracket, so it still wobbles around a lot when turned as it isn't fixed to the wall. Check valve on the tap only.

At least we've got the mains water on again though which is quite a luxury after so long without :)

I guess I can get it done properly when we get the kitchen done.

The WC has a feed to an outside tap as well. There's an isolation valve there, and it's no one of those types with a slotted screw. Will that do? It turns off the cold water tap as well but I'm not too worried about that as we don't often use the WC and when we do we can use the hot water tap instead. But is that type of isolation valve ok?

Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated!

[aeromech3]

In a really cold winter I had my outside tap pop off the pipe, so an inside isolation valve is worth it and your servicing one should be enough.

[Scotty001]

From personal experience fit an isolator in the property for the winter time. Last year we had the outdoor pipe freeze expand and burst, followed by a call from the mother in law saying there is water gushing all over the garden.

Due to the (what seems odd way to me) the only way I could see to stop the water from gushing ot the burst pipe was to shut off an isolator valve that was connected to the kitchen hot water tap. All other isolators didn't stop the water but there was 1 pipe heading behind the kitchen units towards where the pipe comes out the wall. (I was not going to tear the kitchen apart)

Now as you can imagine not having hot water in - 7c was not going to go down well with swmbo. Finishing work at 8pm standing out in the freezing cold trying to wrap self amalgamating tape around a frozen pipe that was a few mm from the wall was not fun, (frozen hands and scraped knuckles)

This worked for several hours until 3am and swmbo wakes me up because there's no water when the turns the taps or shower on. One look out the bedroom window and sure enough the tape gave way and water is p*ssing out everywhere again.

Now telling swmbo to shower with face wipes was not a statement I wanted to make but nether the less I did (you can imagine her reaction to this)

Once again shut the water off the only way I could leaving cold water only, then stayed up for a few hrs till I had to go to work.

Reserved a compression cap along with pipe cutter and de burrer from screwfix ready to collect right after work, get home at 8pm to snarling swmbo and haste ly head back out into the freezing rain to cut the pipe and put a cap on it so I could turn the hot water back on.

With the hot water back on I prayed the pipe wouldn't burst further up (pipe runs 12 ft down the wall from the 1st floor kitchen) at a later time. Thankfully it didn't.

When the weather was warmer I got a new section of pipe and compression fittings (treated myself to a new tap too) and did a proper repair and re instated the tap.

All this agro because I didn't have an internal isolator for that outdoor tap.

I'd bought one ready to spend more time tracing the pipework and fitting it ready for next (this year)

As I'd spent some hours trying to figure out the plumbing of the house to locate a position for the isolator to my surprise I discover the feed wasn't from pipework hidden behind the kitchen units but direct from the boiler which had 2 isolator valves, both with yellow gas off valve handles. (I wish I'd looked there months ago) Guess what one of those is the shut off falve for the outside water tap.

This year the water is isolated and drained from the pipe so it doesn't burst.

Now by the time you have read this you could have got an isolator valve, pipe cutter and de burrer and installed it!! And you wouldn't need to go through the pain of a burst pipe and a wife who uncannily resembled a pit bull chewing on a bumble bee after its mate just stung it on the nut sack.

[Razor]

If you want to comply you need an internal stoptap with a double check valve above it then a drain off before the pipe goes to the tap.

I just have a full bore valve then it goes straight to the stop cock because I want the best possible flow and I can drain it by undoing the compression nut on the drain off if I need too.


I hope no one sends the water by law police round

[wine~o]

If you want to comply you need an internal stoptap with a double check valve above it then a drain off before the pipe goes to the tap.

I just have a full bore valve then it goes straight to the stop cock because I want the best possible flow and I can drain it by undoing the compression nut on the drain off if I need too.


I hope no one sends the water by law police round

According to WRAS either an internal double check valve or a tap with integrated double check valve

IRN R060

Where in existing house installations a hose pipe is to be used from an existing hose union tap located outside a house and which is not provided with backflow protection, either:
a.
the existing hose union tap should be provided with a double check valve (Type EC or ED) located inside the building; or
b.
the tap should be replaced with a hose union tap that incorporates a double check valve (type (HUK1); or
c.
a hose union backflow prevention (Type HA) or a double check valve (Type EC or ED) should be continuously fitted to the outlet of the tap

[artillerydave1]

I had one of these fitted. If you've got a mucky dog or do outdoors stuff it's amazing. Hot and cold outdoor mixer tap. Double check valves inside the wall.

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