Breakfast bar/worktop

Kabous · Post by **Kabous** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:33 pm

I'm hoping for some generous Samaritan on this forum to help with my breakfast bar/worktop predicament.

Worktop - Solid Iroko 30mm

Fixing position - One end (narrow side) to be fitted on to batton (fitted against dry-line wall).

PROBLEMS(?)

1. I need to fix the worktop above a radiator and am worried about heat damage to wood. Was thinking about some ventilation holes, but can be ugly and an ideal place for the wee ones to get fingers stuck or to drop things in to. Any suggestions please.

2. What is the Standard height range for breakfast bar/worktops.

Hope someone can help.

Hinton Heating · Post by **Hinton Heating** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:46 pm

The rad heat shouldn't damage the worktop, but the wood will certainly affect the performance of it, preventing convection heat currents.

I would guess a breakfast bar would sit at same heigh as normal worktops, which in my kitchen is 890mm from floor to underside

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:53 pm

I don't think the heat will damage the worktop, I am not familiar with that kind of worktop, as you have said it is solid, I take it there is no edging strips or anything that are going to be ironed on ?

Worktop heights vary from kitchen to kitchen, but it's important to make sure that appliances can fit underneath!

I think a standard appliance is 810mm high, so if you were to but your units from B&Q and wind the legs right down, you would not be able to get your washing machine etc. under the worktop. You have to allow for the tiling or any other thick floor covering.

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:57 pm

On second thoughts if you are using long stools, which are about 34 inches high, then you might be better off with the breakfast bar at about 42 inches high!

wood4fun · Post by **wood4fun** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:20 pm

is the worktop soild iroko ?

Kabous · Post by **Kabous** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 8:25 pm

Thank you for your comments.

Yes it is solid Iroko.

The current height to the top if the radiator is 825mm (32" and a bit). I was thinking of installing the table top anything from 140mm-250mm (5-10") ABOVE the radiator. A lot depends on the chair/stool height that we settle for.

Will this still have a negative effect on the convection currents?

If so, what about an aluminium deflector plate underneath the table top? Would this have any influence?

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:38 pm

appliances are normally 850mm tall

standard height of worktop is 870mm to the bottom edge

Kabous · Post by **Kabous** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 10:20 pm

Thanks for your reply.

Should have made it clear though. The breakfast bar/worktop is just a free standing solid Iroko top to be fitted one short end on wall.

It will be supported by a single metal leg at the other end.

We, 4 of us will be sitting, two a piece on either side of this table.

No appliences are to fit beneath. Only storage for chairs.

Hinton Heating · Post by **Hinton Heating** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 10:40 pm

from the sounds of things, you can fit it at whatever height you & your family feel comfortable on the seating you have.

wood4fun · Post by **wood4fun** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 11:26 pm

i would for sure go with something to deflect the heat from the solid wood worktop.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:06 am

yep i agree a radiator shelve 95mm wide about 2" above the radiator to deflect the heat it will still warm up the iroko but not so directly
oil up the wood with three coats [top and bottom] to stabilise the moisture content and help stop movement
i would definatly suggest you install an end piece to stabilise across the grain as you will almost certainly get movement if you dont
you should also fit two legs for stability

Kabous · Post by **Kabous** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:36 am

Thanks for these suggestions!

More food for thought.

Kabous · Post by **Kabous** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 9:41 pm

Thanks all and Big Al

I have taken onboard all suggestions and offered it as part of our morning coffee break.

WHAT AN INTERESTING TALK SHOW.

My training (in South Africa - woodwork teacher/cabinet maker and very much old school – like UK in the 60’s - early 80’s) had an inbred appreciation for solid timber. Chip board, MDF and the like are very much Weetabix and avoided at all cost.

Central heating in SA is non existent (Ave temp in my area winter about 17◦C, same as sea temp also in winter) and thus there is very little effect on solid wood furniture. I did have major problems with exceptional quality furniture, hand made inland and then moved to the coast, that looked almost like “pic-n-mix” furniture.

The effect on solid wood was incredible. All drawers and doors suddenly needed 1.5-2.5mm planed of to fit. And the rest was barely staying together.

Back to the breakfast bar.

As soon as the “wif” decided on the chairs I’ll be able to fix the work top at the height needed, thanks to your help, at a height that’ll hopefully not effect the top not the central heating

What clearance is needed between chair and top?

Cheers

Kabous

wood4fun · Post by **wood4fun** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 9:54 pm

what is the most comfortable for you.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:55 am

10" would give you about the same ratio as your dinning room table and chairs

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