KItchen base unit leveling problem

exeterphil · Post by **exeterphil** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:18 pm

Afternoon.. thought I'd pose my kitchen DIY problem here before I pull out even more hair.
Currently at the fitting stage of our kitchen top to bottom rebuild.

So... I'm fitting the base cabinets, only the corner unit (see photographs) - when level has
a one inch gap at the back top edge due to the wall not being true (sloping slightly back).
I'm assuming the unit needs its top edge flat to the wall so the work tops fit better. Therefore...
what is recommended I do?

Cheers

I wondered if taking the cabinet apart, and trimming a little off the back edges would be a
good idea - allowing it to fit more snug when level?

carhartt kid · Post by **carhartt kid** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:52 pm

Hi exeterphil

Normally you would scribe the back edge of the unit to the wall. I usually mark it and then blast it off with a electric planer with a bag on. However! Your base units look like Ikea ones. The back panels are flush with the walls! Typically from companies that are from countries that are dominated buy timber frame houses. All their services are buried in their cavities! Ours, however, are not!

You're best bet is to buy a sheet of white veneer faced hardboard. Tear out the one you've built in already. Screw in a frame of 25x25mm PAR timber. and cut the new white board to fit. Pin and glue. White silicone around the edges. This also means you can hide the pipes youve got running through the unit as its a great place for mice to set up home!

lockie · Post by **lockie** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:02 pm

How deep is the unit and how deep are your worktops ?Are you going to tile after its fitted ? If so you may be able to get away with pulling the tops forward a bit and cover the gap with the tiles.If not its the solution offered above im afraid.

I mentioned this problem in another thread with some units not having the backs with a hollow area behind you can trim or cut down.

exeterphil · Post by **exeterphil** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:58 am

Thanks for the swift replies...

Answer Lockie's questions:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
All the Ikea units are 58cm deep.
Worktops are 62cm deep
Walls above the worktops will be tiled aftewards

Carhartt Kid.. sounds like you talking from experience, only I'm a little confused
as to why adding a 25x25 PAR timber frame behind the unit will help? - Won't this just
give me something solid to fix the unit to the wall, but still leaving me with a 1inch gap.
Given the depth of the worktop, I don't think I've got much room to play with?

(Am I under the wrong assumption that I need to minimise any gaps at the top back of
any units so the worktops fit as neatly as possible? - only need to adjust the side against
the pipework the other side of the corner unit is pretty flush to the wall)

Scribing the units back edges sounds most logical, or am I missing something in what
you've written that makes it truly impossible?

Cheers...

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 1:40 pm

Scribing the units back edges sounds most logical, or am I missing something in what
you've written that makes it truly impossible?

we are assuming they are ikea units with no space between cabinet back and the wall [service void] that means you cannot scribe them without removing the back pannel

have you flipped your level to check for accuracy!!!

exeterphil · Post by **exeterphil** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:17 pm

I'm working today, so can't work in the kitchen on this til tomorrow.

Thank you Big-All.... my last post above confirms they are Ikea units, and
yes checked the accuracy of both my spirit levels.

Removing the hard board back panel is quite easy, and simple enough to
replace. I'd not glued that particular base unit together either, so it will come
apart easily enough.

fin · Post by **fin** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:53 pm

id go the route carhartt kid sugested. easy enough to do.

ikea kitchens are a pain in the ass like. big time

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:30 am

exeterphil wrote:
Removing the hard board back panel is quite easy, and simple enough to
replace. I'd not glued that particular base unit together either, so it will come
apart easily enough.

not that simple i am afraid

you scribe the sides to the wall your back needs to be farther forward because any high spots away from the sides will push the unit away from the wall

even if you could just screw it back on it would be a bodge as the cabinet internals should remain fully square inside

a compromise could be if its only the one unit thats out this much is chip out the plaster at the bottom to gain 10 to 15mm and your upstand or tiles will probably[hopfully

] fill the other 10 to 15mm at the top

thescruff · Post by **thescruff** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:40 am

A 50 x 25 batten frame around the edge of the unit to fix the back to seems like a good plan to me, the unit can then be scribed to the wall.

carhartt kid · Post by **carhartt kid** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:12 am

Sorry I haven't replied for ages. Got kinda lost doing stuff! Here's a rough photoshop adjustment of your pic. Hope you managed to sort it out!

Gives a kind of idea of what I'd do. The red bit is the piece I'd remove from the back edge of the side panels. With this in mind. You'd have to do this to the whole run along that wall. Oh and remember you'll have to cut down your shelves too! The Transparent white thingy is the replacement back panel. Obviously the batten goes behind it!

Hope this makes sense of what I wrote before. Brains a bit fried. Cheers