Aquapanel and depth of battens

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:44 pm

Hi, I have read the posts on the aquapanel for a bathroom. I note that you can't dot and dab the aquapanel but should use battens and recommended distance is 38mm or so.

For my teeny bathroom taking 38 +12mm panel = 50mm from all walls is quite a bit and means that putting in a shower becomes difficult. Most walls are beat to sh#t so I would like to use a board rather than try plaster it.

For the non shower areas why can't i simply screw the panel to the wall. Is it because I need an air gap behind the wall.

cheers

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:15 pm

Right am getting confused now

I see from the guide http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/building_a_shower.htm
that you should 'tank' over the aqual panel using Bal WP1 Waterproof coating.

However if this creates a water proof seal, why do I need the battons in the first place?

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:23 pm

The tanking is only required in the immediate shower area.

This explains why you have to use battens for the aquapanel-

dot-dab-aquapanel-direct-bond-aquapanel-t3056.html

I'm sure that bstyle now just uses plasterboard and tanks it, but I'm not certain.

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:44 pm

Cheers UHM, is tanking used in the shower only as an extra precaution because my thinking is that if it was water proof no moisture would get through the aquapanel hence no need for that 38mm air gap, i.e. could you use d n d just a spacer and use screws to ensure its actually secure to the wall or just much thinner battens

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:53 am

If you don't tank it there is a risk that water will eventually penetrate and then may cause damage.

When using stuff like this it is important to follow their instructions and advice or there could be comeback if the product ever fails.

Obviously if you are doing the work for yourself and things go wrong then it's not much of a problem and you can put it down to experience.

bathstyle · Post by **bathstyle** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:38 pm

I rarely use Aquapanel for walls these days. I use either the Homelux tanking Kit or Schluiter Kerdi tanking Kit straight on top of Plasterboard.

Topps Tiles sell the Homelux Kit, it's about £40 for 5 square metres which is your average shower. Very easy to install, same day tiling.

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:17 am

makes sense guys thanks.

My concern was that I don't have enough room for the shower unit. According to the Mira Stylus instructions I need a gap of 47mm but I now see that some of it can be recessed if needed. This helps a bit. Tanking kit seems just the ticket. Gives me peace of mind too

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:25 pm

Post is a bit old, but it turns out that I am unable to use the aquapanel as with using the battens I lose too much off the width of the bathroom (can't close the door!)

So its back to the plaster board!

could anybody just indicate what type I need and the thickness. Also is dot and dab fine to hold standard porcelin tiles

Cheers all

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:35 pm

Why not dot & dab the plasterboard ( i'd use 12.5mm ) and then add some as these as a secondary fixing-

dead link removed

Make sure you tank the plasterboard in wet areas, such as the shower area

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:42 pm

Cheers UHM, thats what I was going to do (dot and dab & tank). I am just about 20mm too much with aqualpanel and the battens.

I suppose I wait for a bit before I nail in the fixings. Will these fixings work in breeze block. Its like drilling through a digestive biscuit

Just bought a Mira Excel thermostatic shower. God they are pricey

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:58 pm

NewbieJohn wrote:Cheers UHM, thats what I was going to do (dot and dab & tank). I am just about 20mm too much with aqualpanel and the battens.

I suppose I wait for a bit before I nail in the fixings. Will these fixings work in breeze block. Its like drilling through a digestive biscuit

Just bought a Mira Excel thermostatic shower. God they are pricey

Hmmm. it sounds more like thermalite then, rather then breeze blocks?

thermalite is extremely soft, breeze blocks are much tougher.

I'm not sure if those fixings would work on thermalite, I have checked their website and it does not seem to say.

You can email their technical support to check suitability, I'd do it but I am not at home for a few days-

If you could also let us know what they say please?

email: bgtechnical.enquiries@bpb.com

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:03 pm

Dunno, its back airy type wall, kinda crumbles when scraping at it. Built in 1930.

Will take a photo later and will email them and let you know

cheers

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:06 pm

Hmmm, don't think they had thermalite back then

If you drill into it and put a wall plug in and a screw, does it hold ok?

If it does then the fixings above thould be ok

DIY_Johnny · Post by **DIY_Johnny** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:13 pm

Yes, more or less, I always find that I need a slightly smaller hole and really wedge the plug in and its fine. Otherwise the plug never seems to take hold and the screwing action pulls the plug out

UHM to use those nail plugs do I just dill through the plasterboard, inset plug and just nail in ?

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:16 pm

NewbieJohn wrote:Yes, more or less, I always find that I need a slightly smaller hole and really wedge the plug in and its fine. Otherwise the plug never seems to take hold and the screwing action pulls the plug out

UHM to use those nail plugs do I just dill through the plasterboard, inset plug and just nail in ?

I have never used that particular kind before and so they should come with instructions, but with most hammer in fixings you just drill a hole to the recommended size, insert the fixing and then hammer it home.