what would you do here?
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- Mr. Grumpy
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what would you do here?
Hi all, can I ask what you guys would do here for preparing the walls for tiling for a bathroom
Pict 2 is where I took an old bath out
Pict 4 is a sample wall where I took the tiles down
Pict 3 is where the new shower will be going in. I need to oput in a stud wall here to hide the shower controls and feeds, so was going to use aquapanel for this part and tank
I was think that some of the walls could be just patched up like in pict 2 and 3.
There seems to be so many different types of plaster you can buy. Its a bit confusing. Should I just get an undercoat plaster and patch up the walls, wait til dry, tank with BAL WP1 or the dunlop one, (for shower area)then use BAL tile flexible tile adhesive
Q1) What type of plaster should I be looking for? Will Thistle Undercoat plaster do, do I need a finishing plaster also?
Q) One what is painted (not shown) will tile adhesive stick to that? The paint is fairly firm
Q3) do I need to prime the wall before and after I plaster
I may just end up with Dot and Dab plaster board of I make a mess out of it as I want to use big tiles hence I assume the wall has to be fairly straight
Thanks in advance
Pict 2 is where I took an old bath out
Pict 4 is a sample wall where I took the tiles down
Pict 3 is where the new shower will be going in. I need to oput in a stud wall here to hide the shower controls and feeds, so was going to use aquapanel for this part and tank
I was think that some of the walls could be just patched up like in pict 2 and 3.
There seems to be so many different types of plaster you can buy. Its a bit confusing. Should I just get an undercoat plaster and patch up the walls, wait til dry, tank with BAL WP1 or the dunlop one, (for shower area)then use BAL tile flexible tile adhesive
Q1) What type of plaster should I be looking for? Will Thistle Undercoat plaster do, do I need a finishing plaster also?
Q) One what is painted (not shown) will tile adhesive stick to that? The paint is fairly firm
Q3) do I need to prime the wall before and after I plaster
I may just end up with Dot and Dab plaster board of I make a mess out of it as I want to use big tiles hence I assume the wall has to be fairly straight
Thanks in advance
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- ultimatehandyman
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It's hard to tell how much plaster is missing in depth from the wall in picture 2.
It might be a good idea to bring it up to just below the level of the other plaster using hardwall and then give it a skim of finishing plaster.
The finish does not need to be perfect and so you can use it for practicing.
You will have to make sure that the plaster is level though and so grounds may be needed and a straight edge for the backing plaster.
It might be a good idea to bring it up to just below the level of the other plaster using hardwall and then give it a skim of finishing plaster.
The finish does not need to be perfect and so you can use it for practicing.
You will have to make sure that the plaster is level though and so grounds may be needed and a straight edge for the backing plaster.
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The bigger the tile.........the flatter the walls need to be.
Rather than faff about if your not into skimming the walls..........I'd get a plasterer in to sort it in a few hours..........rather than days it MAY take you
As for the painted wall...........stick some duct tape on.....leave for 30 mins. then pull of........if no paint it should be ok, but to on the safe side.......just rough it up with coarse sandpaper
Rather than faff about if your not into skimming the walls..........I'd get a plasterer in to sort it in a few hours..........rather than days it MAY take you
As for the painted wall...........stick some duct tape on.....leave for 30 mins. then pull of........if no paint it should be ok, but to on the safe side.......just rough it up with coarse sandpaper
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Have used the tanking system a couple of times. One customer now insists on it, the other said he wouldn't bother next time.
I would use bonding plaster because it sticks hard. Need to SBR bond before tiling though as per BAL recommendation.
With paint, I attack it with a shave hook or sharp screwdriver to score it back to the plaster and take off anything that flakes.
If you use a long level or straight edge when you square up the walls, you will give yourself a good surface to tile onto.
I would use bonding plaster because it sticks hard. Need to SBR bond before tiling though as per BAL recommendation.
With paint, I attack it with a shave hook or sharp screwdriver to score it back to the plaster and take off anything that flakes.
If you use a long level or straight edge when you square up the walls, you will give yourself a good surface to tile onto.
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- Mr. Grumpy
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Cheers guys,
Right, i have given the wall a good rubbing with the sander and coarse sand paper. Will score it back too. I see on the B&Q web site you can buy 8 different types of plaster (Thistle brand)
universal one coat
Dri-Coat
Board Finish
Multi Finish
Bonding
Hardwall
Dry wall adhesive
Browning
Some of the wall to be plastered is old thermolite, I think (black crumbley stuff). See picture 2
So should I just cover the wall with the Thistle Bonding coat and thats it?
1. Do I need a primer before I put on the Bonding coat. It seems to say that I use the ThistleBondit on a painted wall, is this necessary. See http://www.british-gypsum.com/PDF/LIT_T ... -Jan05.pdf
2. Can i just put the flexible tile adhesive straight on to the bonding coat for the non-shower area, or would I need a finishing plaster to smooth it up?
3. I need to patch up lots of bits and pieces in the other rooms two so if I use the bonding agent, can I just use the finishing plaster in this case?
Only-me:
very true about getting a plasterer in for a few hours. It would be much better and much quicker. But I fancy having a crack at doing it myself. Although I did try a ceiling a few years ago with that polycell smooth over. Was practically impossible, no clue how you guys do ceilings I ended up sanding the crap out of it to smooth it down
Right, i have given the wall a good rubbing with the sander and coarse sand paper. Will score it back too. I see on the B&Q web site you can buy 8 different types of plaster (Thistle brand)
universal one coat
Dri-Coat
Board Finish
Multi Finish
Bonding
Hardwall
Dry wall adhesive
Browning
Some of the wall to be plastered is old thermolite, I think (black crumbley stuff). See picture 2
So should I just cover the wall with the Thistle Bonding coat and thats it?
1. Do I need a primer before I put on the Bonding coat. It seems to say that I use the ThistleBondit on a painted wall, is this necessary. See http://www.british-gypsum.com/PDF/LIT_T ... -Jan05.pdf
2. Can i just put the flexible tile adhesive straight on to the bonding coat for the non-shower area, or would I need a finishing plaster to smooth it up?
3. I need to patch up lots of bits and pieces in the other rooms two so if I use the bonding agent, can I just use the finishing plaster in this case?
Only-me:
very true about getting a plasterer in for a few hours. It would be much better and much quicker. But I fancy having a crack at doing it myself. Although I did try a ceiling a few years ago with that polycell smooth over. Was practically impossible, no clue how you guys do ceilings I ended up sanding the crap out of it to smooth it down
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- Mr. Grumpy
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- Mr. Grumpy
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Ok let me see if i have this right., sorry for the dumb questions but this is confusing to me
NON-SHOWER AREA
+++++++++++++
1. clean off the loose plaster / masonary / score paint etc
2. Seal walls??, do I need to?
3. Fill up large gaps with bonding plaster.
4. Cover all walls with BAL SBR Bond.
5. Using rapidset flex tile adhesive and put on the large tiles
SHOWER AREA
++++++++++
1. clean off the loose plaster / masonary / paint etc
2. Seal walls??, do I need to?
3. Fill up large gaps with bonding plaster.
4. Cover all walls with BAL SBR Bond.
5. Tank using BAL WP1 kit as per instructures
6. Tile
Is this ok chaps?
(UHM, there is about 15mm missing from the plaster in pict 2. Good point about practising the skimming plaster)
NON-SHOWER AREA
+++++++++++++
1. clean off the loose plaster / masonary / score paint etc
2. Seal walls??, do I need to?
3. Fill up large gaps with bonding plaster.
4. Cover all walls with BAL SBR Bond.
5. Using rapidset flex tile adhesive and put on the large tiles
SHOWER AREA
++++++++++
1. clean off the loose plaster / masonary / paint etc
2. Seal walls??, do I need to?
3. Fill up large gaps with bonding plaster.
4. Cover all walls with BAL SBR Bond.
5. Tank using BAL WP1 kit as per instructures
6. Tile
Is this ok chaps?
(UHM, there is about 15mm missing from the plaster in pict 2. Good point about practising the skimming plaster)
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- Mr. Grumpy
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bathroom
1st you need a guy to re-plaster the walls and make sure he puts something on the walls before plastering, 2rd if you want a good job done in Tiling then get a guy who knows what hes talking about, i had my kitching re-tiled and its cost me £130 plus i had to buy the tiles but boy was it dead worth it, jim dale
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- Mr. Grumpy
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Re: bathroom
Howdy Jim,Jim Dale wrote:1st you need a guy to re-plaster the walls and make sure he puts something on the walls before plastering, 2rd if you want a good job done in Tiling then get a guy who knows what hes talking about, i had my kitching re-tiled and its cost me £130 plus i had to buy the tiles but boy was it dead worth it, jim dale
If I was going to do all that there would be no need to come on to this site. I should be looking at the dolphin bathrooms web site or something
Take your point though, the pros are obviously going to do a better job than me. Point here is that I wish to learn another skill if possible