kitchen worktop
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- big-all
- Pro Carpenter
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drill 2 x8mm holes in diagonaly opposit corners 2mm overlapping the cut line use 101b or d blade
if the blade starts to wander or it gets harder to cut change the blade
be wary off the carcas underneath
you must fully support the weight off the cutout when your down to the last edge if the worktop is in situ but loose you can use a bit off 3mm hardboard mdf or ply 650 x 90% the length just make shure it goes under the front and back rails
you can also just support it by hand
and last off all dont lift the worktop with a cutout without asking how!!
if the blade starts to wander or it gets harder to cut change the blade
be wary off the carcas underneath
you must fully support the weight off the cutout when your down to the last edge if the worktop is in situ but loose you can use a bit off 3mm hardboard mdf or ply 650 x 90% the length just make shure it goes under the front and back rails
you can also just support it by hand
and last off all dont lift the worktop with a cutout without asking how!!
we are all ------------------still learning
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Ive done it a different way to this with good results.Mark it all up using masking tape then use a circular saw/trim saw to plunge in and run it along the straights stopping before the corners.Use a jigsaw to cut the last corner bits out but support the offcut. Found this an easier way of getting nice straight lines as i dont have a really good jigsaw.