Cutting a Curve on a Kitchen Worktop

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:05 pm

big-all wrote:gotcha your rough cutting with a jigsaw

Well it wasn't my intention; in fact it is the reason I posted this thread.

I tried cutting the worktop with a jigsaw and it didn't work out. Now i believe I have a solution.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:36 pm

i have been thinking about this a router cutter with a bearing cant do multiple passes on a surface as the cutter can only cut full length off the cutting edge so unless youve got a bearing cutter with a 6mm cutting edge and extra long shaft it wont work

Hitch · Post by **Hitch** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:17 pm

Why not do a 20mm deep cut (in passes) with a 8mm diameter cutter, on the radius you want, using the trammel bar....
Then use the jigsaw to carefully cut on the waste side of the routed slot. The offcut will then be out of the way, and youd be left with a 20mm high, but only 5mm or so deep step...
Then use the bearing guided cutter from the opposite side, at maximum depth. Take it steady and dont push it in hard and it should be fine i'd think.

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 9:21 pm

Hitch wrote:Why not do a 20mm deep cut (in passes) with a 8mm diameter cutter, on the radius you want, using the trammel bar....
Then use the jigsaw to carefully cut on the waste side of the routed slot. The offcut will then be out of the way, and youd be left with a 20mm high, but only 5mm or so deep step...
Then use the bearing guided cutter from the opposite side, at maximum depth. Take it steady and dont push it in hard and it should be fine i'd think.

Hi Mitch, :)

That's pretty much what I'm doing except I've already cut the radius with a jigsaw; so I'll do an initial pass with the router (20mm is a good width to remove) for a moderate say 3mm average depth.

Then turn I'll trim the excess with bearing guided cutter as you suggest.

I shall do some practice runs on offcuts as this is my first routing experience.

Hitch · Post by **Hitch** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 9:49 pm

Dont forget to go in the right direction Kate.
The rotating cutter needs to be pushed into it, otherwise it will try and push itself away. It will become obvious when you are looking at it .

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:06 pm

Hitch wrote:Dont forget to go in the right direction Kate.
The rotating cutter needs to be pushed into it, otherwise it will try and push itself away. It will become obvious when you are looking at it .

Thanks Hitch,

That's something I had not realised. :)

python · Post by **python** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:54 pm

gl kate

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:30 pm

python wrote:gl kate

ty python.

It'll probably be a week or so yet, because I'm putting plumbing in for a new boiler!

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:27 pm

I've done it; I've finally got round to doing it.

What I did was use the router with the bar and pin attachment on the underside of the worktop to scribe a radius with a straight router bit.

Then I used a straight bit with a bearing and cut it from the top side.

It looks perfect.

You have to make sure you measure everything very accurately though and make allowance to 'cut in' to allow the laminate edging to be stuck on.

I am very pleased; now a question...

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:28 pm

Now I need to stick on the laminate edging strip.

If you've done this before had success with it; could you recommend a type/brand as I don't know where to start and I'd like to get this right.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:50 pm

you normaly get a stip with the worktop in the packaging

it may be quite tricky to get unless its a plain colour without pattern

where did the worktop come from!!!

wine~o · Post by **wine~o** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:57 pm

big-all wrote:you normaly get a stip with the worktop in the packaging

it may be quite tricky to get unless its a plain colour without pattern

where did the worktop come from!!!

big all I think the question was "What brand of contact adhesive.."

evo stick as good as any.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:30 pm

wine~o wrote:
big-all wrote:you normaly get a stip with the worktop in the packaging

it may be quite tricky to get unless its a plain colour without pattern

where did the worktop come from!!!
big all I think the question was "What brand of contact adhesive.."

evo stick as good as any.

yep i think you are right in both respects

evostic

Kate Bygrave · Post by **Kate Bygrave** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:11 pm

wine~o wrote:
big-all wrote:you normaly get a stip with the worktop in the packaging

it may be quite tricky to get unless its a plain colour without pattern

where did the worktop come from!!!
big all I think the question was "What brand of contact adhesive.."

evo stick as good as any.

Yes, sorry I should clarify; it's the adhesive I was referring to.

Thank you Wine~O

wonky windows · Post by **wonky windows** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:24 pm

i was fitting a kitchen last week and didn't have my curve jig with me. as it was the last job to do in the kitchen i wanted to get it finished so i improvised by clamping two pieces of the kids 'scalectrix' track and used it to guide my router.

Cutting a Curve on a Kitchen Worktop

Contact Adhesive