Acrylic for display fronts on doors?

Bludall · Post by **Bludall** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:37 am

I have an Ikea bookcase, the children want to get doors for it and I thought we could do something arty with them.

The idea is to get clear acrylic cut to the door size 33cm x 33cm with polished edges and holes at each corner to attach to the door front. The acrylic would need to stand slightly away from the door front as we aim to display their origami on backing board behind it, so it could be changed when they want then.

I need to know how hard it is to cut as a diyer, or is it best left to the pros? What would I use to get the acrylic to stand away from the door, is there a special screw/bolt? Is acrylic pricey, never used it? Hope someone can help!

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:54 am

It's easy to cut- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqtKH8VfRcI

But it looks like you will be needing 25 pieces?

It's not that expensive, I got a piece about A4 size for 99p from ebay which was 3mm thick clear.

But if you want all the edges polishing you are better off getting it laser cut as this will polish the edge at the same time.

Bludall · Post by **Bludall** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 1:21 pm

ultimatehandyman,

Thanks for the link!

I just priced up a cut to size clear 4mm x 33cm square polished edge square, over £13 excluding postage! Flipping heck, I'm in the wrong job!

I'm going to have to see what local suppliers charge.

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 1:33 pm

Some of the sellers on ebay will be able to help you out I would of thought, perhaps this guy-

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/slade341/m.html? ... ksid=p4340

Bludall · Post by **Bludall** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:03 am

Ultimatehandyman,

Thanks for that link. I'll have to ask the guy whether he thinks my idea will work. If not may try clear plastic pockets or even cut to size picture frame.

Stoday · Post by **Stoday** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:57 pm

It's not difficult to smooth the edge of sawn acrylic, providing, as usual, you use the right tools.

I use a 12" single cut flat b*stard file to get rid of the saw marks, then emery cloth for the final smoothing.

You need a single cut because cross cut will clog. 12" and b*stard cut is, I've found, just about the right roughness. Use emery cloth, not paper because you'll get a much better finish if the emery is wet. (Spit is better than water).

bredred · Post by **bredred** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:01 pm

Cheapest way is to contact a local acrylic supplier and explain what you want - they almost always have off-cuts that you can pick up cheap or you can get a half sheet for example. My local supplier will cut to size for me as well - usually a fiver for the whole order. They simply set their sliding bech saw and away they go - takes minutes.

When getting acrylic, ask for extruded acrylic - not cast acrylic. Cast is more brittle and is difficult to polish. Both cast and acrylic are suitable for what you are doing. I used acrylic for all of my work.

If you need to cut the acrylic then treat it the same way as you would with wood - circular saws & routers are brilliant with acrylic. Normal drill bits are also great with acrylic - just don't press down and force the drill through or it will splinter at the other side.

Polishing is simple, quick, cheap and looks fantastic. To polish it you need a butane torch - as used for plumbing - a Bernzomatic from B&Q is ideal. Get a fairly hot flame - not a roaring flame. Simply run the inner blue flame tip across the edge of the acrylic - keeping the flame moving all of the time - apply too much heat at one time and you will melt the acrylic. Practice on a spare piece until you master it - it is very simple. Polish screw holes etc in the same way.