Potting Shed Build, Plans and have a few questions

[Jaeger_S2k]

Hi,
I'm building a Potting Shed for 'She who makes Lumpy Custard'. I've drawn up a plan and have a few questions I'd like to get your opinions on...

Here's where I'm up to (nothing built yet) ....



The frame ...



Floor frame is in 3 x 2 with 18mm WBP ply.

Roof is same but the frame I have as 2 x 2 treated. Was thinking I should maybe up the roof trusses to 3 x 2?

The uprights are all 2 x 2 would there be any reason for going to 3 x 2 for any of the main (central uprights)?

The windows I'm puzzling over, the glass would be under the loglap I have running down the frames and I'm concerned about the rain as it would run under the bottom loglap, would drainage holes deal with this or would you go a different route.

Over all foot print is 8 ft wide x 5 foot deep, that's the available space. Floor and roof would be from 3 x 2400 x 1200 sheets, off cuts would be used for shelves or tool hanging etc. (or even in the garage).

Would you suggest any other way for the roof structure? Layout? The boards will be clad in tiled tarmac felt.

Anything you need to know feel free to ask.

[Hitch]

I have plans for one of these things, ill be back in a moment.....;)

[dewaltdisney]

I would make separate frames for the glass and fit them to the openings. It might be an idea to make them capable of opening so that it does not get too hot in hot weather.

By the way how did the wardrobe turn out?

DWD

[speed]

2x2 is fine for the full structure, even the roof.
for the roof id add some timber around the edges to give it some depth to fix the felt down the edges

for the window as dwd says make some casement windows

[big-all]

you must leave the bottom off the glass open and overhanging by at least 12mm othewise you will rot you wood in no time even with drain holes

would also suggest that the beam going from side to side at the highest point should be at least 3x2 if not 4x2" as any dip in that beam will push the front and back walls appart

[Jaeger_S2k]

I was concerned by the glass collecting water and hence the drains. I think the overhang will be the best solution (hadn't thought of that). I've also been asked if I could collect the rain water to a water butt from the glass and the roof. I guess that's something else to consider. I'd like to keep it wooden in structure so maybe some for of adaptation of a piece of log lap routed to accept some plastic pipe probably a 1 1/2 cut open, any ideas?

I've done some colouring of the frame and will post a new picture soon.

Thanks for all the input.

DWD, the wardrobe came out such that the customer (because they know no better) is very pleased with the finished article. I am OK with it but I could do better next time. It's very acceptable but I (having learned more about it from you guys) know and you or anyone with experience would know what wasn't quite right. But it works, is full, shelves are being used and hanging space is full and the doors open freely of each other.

-- Sat May 01, 2010 12:50 am --



big-all, are the beams coloured green the ones you mentioned?

Also the main roof beam I've coloured beige I was considering that as a 3 x 2 just for additional strength?

To be honest the roof was a serious contender for a 3 x 2 frame as I've worked on shed roofs repair and re-felting that have felt particulrly weak down to the beams/cross members.

I think I'll do them 3 x 2 it's not a lot as a cost issue and I'll know if it's ever knelt on it'll be OK.

There's also a 3 x 2 plate that will run over the top of the door, that will tie the central roof support upright to the other side of the door, the corner upright.

SWMLC doesn't want the windows to open? Don't argue I've already done that on your behalf, they will be fixed windows?

The sides of the windows (mullions) are 3 x 2. I could dim the drawing but it'll look a bit messy on an image, so any concerns of dims I'd really be happy to reply to.

-- Sat May 01, 2010 12:54 am --

2x2 is fine for the full structure, even the roof.
for the roof id add some timber around the edges to give it some depth to fix the felt down the edges

for the window as dwd says make some casement windows

speed,
Haven't really thought about the sides of the roof, good point. I was thinking bring the felt down and turn under fix with a baton and trim the excess?