job pricing
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job pricing
could you please give me tips on costing a jobs up, i'm just about to leave the navy and have been out off the trade for about 8years now. i'm moving to kent and and would like to know how others go about pricing a job up, as i want to start my own busienss up any info please
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i think the easiest way is to work out what youwant to earn a day and then how long a job will take you.
will tske you a few mistakes but there is no black and white answer.
every now and then i get phone calls asking for a price and how long it will take. i get the feeling it is competitors comparing prices.
you could always do that.
will tske you a few mistakes but there is no black and white answer.
every now and then i get phone calls asking for a price and how long it will take. i get the feeling it is competitors comparing prices.
you could always do that.
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Dont forget to take into account price increases in materials, especially important on larger jobs.
If you do a job unpriced, never worry about if it seems to much when you do the bill. Its your living, and thats what you charge, dont compromise.
If you do a job unpriced, never worry about if it seems to much when you do the bill. Its your living, and thats what you charge, dont compromise.
[size=100][color=green][b]Why isn't the number 11 pronounced onety one? [/b][/color][/size]
- dirtydeeds
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agreed add 10% for minor sundries and the labour involved
giving a final bill that is the same as the quote, even though youve used a few extra materials makes getting paid so much easier
customers can get stroppy if you ask for a few extra quid for "silly" minor bits and pieces
but also dont be shy at comming forward if there is a genuine extra
if there is an extra be very careful
show them the problem FIRST before you do anything (without their agreement its YOUR money you are spending)
give two solutions the correct method and the cheap method and the FIXED cost of both solutions, you will be amazed how often even the greatest skinflints go for the correct method
giving a final bill that is the same as the quote, even though youve used a few extra materials makes getting paid so much easier
customers can get stroppy if you ask for a few extra quid for "silly" minor bits and pieces
but also dont be shy at comming forward if there is a genuine extra
if there is an extra be very careful
show them the problem FIRST before you do anything (without their agreement its YOUR money you are spending)
give two solutions the correct method and the cheap method and the FIXED cost of both solutions, you will be amazed how often even the greatest skinflints go for the correct method
- carhartt kid
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I'm a carpenter, and I charge between 140-200 a day labour on private jobs. Sub contracting on commercial projects I charge 18-22 per hour, or do price work! Expect to take home between 400 - 1000 a week. If like me you end up working on a crew of chippies doing commercial jobs. Price work can bring in up to 1500 - 2000 a week before tax.
As self employed, I pay 20% tax and £7 a month Nat Ins in the first year. Plus I'll self assess at the end of the financial year.
As for materials, I charge list plus 15%. My supliers usually give me 10-30% off depending on how cheerfull they feel!
You'll find a lot of foreign labour is flooding the private market. There are a lot of Poles, Lithuanians and Czechos undercutting on private now. And the poor customers are suffering with it.
If you've not worked for over 8yrs, then get on an agency for a bit! They're a great way to get your head back into the hours. Learn all the new Health and Safety garb. And get used to how the industry has changed. You'll find a bag of hand tools won't even get you on site any more! The worlds gone cordless and gas powered!! Also its handy to get face to face with other real tradesmen, and get the facts. Theres been a lot of change, and the ammount of cards and registrations you have to have now boggles the mind.
When setting up as self employed, blow your money on new kit in the first year as you'll get a hefty tax rebate covering it all. Also remember even though you're working, you're still entitled to tax credits!
If you do go private, remember the client can hold you to a quote, but an estimate is better, as you can add any extras on if things crop up.
If you are confident of the work you'll be doing, then charge what you feel is appropriate. I always add on a few % to cover tool and equipment wear and tear, and the odd cockmup.
Finally! I always give a sh*t? You'll find loyalty is a very strong commodity. I've had a core group of clients that stand by me as a result of the blood, sweat and tears i've shed for them. I also have built up a reputuation commercially among Cowlins, Carillion, McAlpine etc, for being a grafter. I never say "can't".
The best of luck mate. I'm sure you'll do fine!!!
As self employed, I pay 20% tax and £7 a month Nat Ins in the first year. Plus I'll self assess at the end of the financial year.
As for materials, I charge list plus 15%. My supliers usually give me 10-30% off depending on how cheerfull they feel!
You'll find a lot of foreign labour is flooding the private market. There are a lot of Poles, Lithuanians and Czechos undercutting on private now. And the poor customers are suffering with it.
If you've not worked for over 8yrs, then get on an agency for a bit! They're a great way to get your head back into the hours. Learn all the new Health and Safety garb. And get used to how the industry has changed. You'll find a bag of hand tools won't even get you on site any more! The worlds gone cordless and gas powered!! Also its handy to get face to face with other real tradesmen, and get the facts. Theres been a lot of change, and the ammount of cards and registrations you have to have now boggles the mind.
When setting up as self employed, blow your money on new kit in the first year as you'll get a hefty tax rebate covering it all. Also remember even though you're working, you're still entitled to tax credits!
If you do go private, remember the client can hold you to a quote, but an estimate is better, as you can add any extras on if things crop up.
If you are confident of the work you'll be doing, then charge what you feel is appropriate. I always add on a few % to cover tool and equipment wear and tear, and the odd cockmup.
Finally! I always give a sh*t? You'll find loyalty is a very strong commodity. I've had a core group of clients that stand by me as a result of the blood, sweat and tears i've shed for them. I also have built up a reputuation commercially among Cowlins, Carillion, McAlpine etc, for being a grafter. I never say "can't".
The best of luck mate. I'm sure you'll do fine!!!
http://www.carhartt.com/
- Jaeger_S2k
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- dirtydeeds
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carhartt kid has hit many nails on the head
my version is slightly different but equates to the same thing.
i ALWAYS price to do the job properly
i DO NOT cut corners on materials or "do a number on it" to make an extra couple of quid
i ALWAYS do quotes not estimates
i do this because im the same as everybody else. i have a fixed budget and cant afford to have an estimate for £300 turn into a final bill of £500
my method means ive had 1 genuine call back in 6 years
my version is slightly different but equates to the same thing.
i ALWAYS price to do the job properly
i DO NOT cut corners on materials or "do a number on it" to make an extra couple of quid
i ALWAYS do quotes not estimates
i do this because im the same as everybody else. i have a fixed budget and cant afford to have an estimate for £300 turn into a final bill of £500
my method means ive had 1 genuine call back in 6 years