Tiling Surfaces!

[kintangoman]

I took of some tiles from the bathroom Walls with the hope of replacing red tiles with beige ones. All the same, the wall surfaces look horrible
in some areas, the plaster is just crumbling & falling off the Walls? There's no way the new tiles will line nicely?
My Question:
- Is it possible to just use plasterboard and screw same all around wall, then tile on the board,
- Or replaster surface and wait 4wks or required time, then tile on the new plastered surface?
I'd prefer to do the tiling asap and 4get about it rather than constantly looking at the horrible Walls?

[Crooksey]

Any pictures mate?

If you want a real quick fix just dust of the plaster and pack it out with adhesive, but if it was me I would re plaster and do it properly :)

[kintangoman]

Thanks crooksy
if I were to re-plaster, how long is required to wait b4 tiling?

[Colour Republic]

What tile adhesive are you going to use???

[marc1106]

kintango! why not knock all the loose stuf away prime the walls with BAL apd then hitem with BAL quickset render can be tiled on after about 4hrs depending on the depth(quicker if thinner)

[kintangoman]

ColourRepublic, I am using some BAL adhessive in a Green tub!?
marc1106, I'll investigate that option. Thanks for the info!!!

[Colour Republic]

ColourRepublic, I am using some BAL adhessive in a Green tub!?
marc1106, I'll investigate that option. Thanks for the info!!!

Then packing out with adhesive is not an option I’m afraid, you have a dispersion adhesive that is not designed to be used at depth. The maximum you can safely go is 4mm (8mm trowel with tiles bedded will give you the 4mm) depending on the depth of the imperfections I wouldn't like to pack out with cement based adhesive either if it's very deep.

If you want to repair the walls, then I would do as Marc suggests, prime the holes and fill with quickset render, if it's deep then build up in layers.

The flatter you can get the surface, the easier it will be to tile with good results, even more so if you don't tile much. A pro can get over some problems as he/she goes along but I would suggest a novice spends as much time getting the prep right first, time spent doing this will save time in the long run when it comes to tiling.

The best option would be to install new plasterboard but in order to do this you would have to remove the plaster on the walls first. You could install new plasterboard over the existing plaster but please be aware it will give you problems around windows and doors, in addition the plumbing may need to be altered because the room would now be slightly smaller.

To be able to advise you on the best route to take would depend on your specific situation. Could you upload a few pictures of the room? Lastly the adhesive you have bought can only be used with certain types and sizes of tile, so it would be wise to make sure it's OK first. What are the tiles made from and what size are they?



P.S - Does it say 'Green Star' or 'Grip' on the side of your adhesive? and also did you buy it from Topps tiles?

[Abode Solutions]

I would too re-plaster and start from scratch, how long it would take to dry depends on a lot of factors (including the cold weather! ) when it is ready tho it'll be uniform in colour

I'm going to take my bathroom back to brick then give the walls prone to getting wet, say around the bath and round the sink, in a sand and cement render with added waterproofer. then after that skim the whole lot then i'll tile the bits i choose. You might say its a bit OTT but its like they say ... if a jobs worth doing...

[marc1106]

I would too re-plaster and start from scratch, how long it would take to dry depends on a lot of factors (including the cold weather! ) when it is ready tho it'll be uniform in colour

I'm going to take my bathroom back to brick then give the walls prone to getting wet, say around the bath and round the sink, in a sand and cement render with added waterproofer. then after that skim the whole lot then i'll tile the bits i choose. You might say its a bit OTT but its like they say ... if a jobs worth doing...

i would say that especially with the products available now that remove the need for rendering!

[Abode Solutions]

Well by the look of my bathroom walls theres a fair bit of the old backing thats blown so once the old tiles are off im sure most of that backing will be coming off with it. I wont use any sort of plasterboard around those areas if i can help it and if the wall need floating then, in my eyes, nothing is better than a good old render with waterproofer

What are these products mate?

[marc1106]

quickset render!
hardi backer! so on and so on the issue with traditional rendering or float and set are the drying times IMO if you are in a timescale(as I usually am) then i cant wait 4 weeks for somthing to dry, so i look at the alternatives if i take a room back to block or brick then i grab the BAL quickset render, admittidly its four times the cost of a bag of multi but it can spread form 2-20mm thick and in all cases is ready to tile the following day at the latest.
if its a stud wall or even D&D then of comes the plasterboard and up goes either MR board or hardibacker as again the benefits are tile same day and carry more weight per meter!

PS theres nothing wrong with using plasterboard in wet areas providing the tile and sealing is done correctly!

[kintangoman]

the tiles are:
- ceramic tiles
- 20 x 25 cm
- 7 mm thickness


adhessive:
- BAL Grip tile adhessive for walls
White, 15 kg

[marc1106]

the tiles are:
- ceramic tiles
- 20 x 25 cm
- 7 mm thickness


adhessive:
- BAL Grip tile adhessive for walls
White, 15 kg

personally id go with Bal CTF3 for those sizes, but then i do wear a belt and braces

[royaloakcarpentry]

Don't ask me...............I use Nicobond adhesives lol

[kintangoman]

Royaloakcapentry, can I get Nicobond from Topstiles?
Was warming up to marc1106's CTF3, but when he mentioned the belt and braces, I got lost? May be he'll enlighten me on that technique?