LV downlighters in lathe and plaster ceiling

[jason123]

Is it possible, any tips?????

[tim'll fix it]

I have done it, I just drilled a hole and whacked it in


I await all the sparks to have a coronary

[skiking]

I suppose the hard bit is making sure the downlighters are secure. Lathe and plaster is fine when its whole but when you start cutting into it it becomes more fragile. With plasterboard its still rigid when you cut into in and you get dedicated back boxes for plasterboard (propably not required in this instance)

[sparkydude]

Right here we go then, Yes it is totally possible but you need 2 holesaws, one for the plaster preferably carbide tipped to cope with the grit in the plaster, or just a cheap disposable one will do as long as you dont mind binning it aftyerwards. The second one will need to be new and sharp to enable you to cut out the lathes without blowing them and the plaster falling off of them . Thats it really , A padsaw is a definite No No as it moves the lathes too much and will cause them to vibrate the plaster off of the back of them.


Nick

[jason123]

Cheers fellas

[Johny]

I changed from standard (60w spots) to LV downlighters when I did some ceiling repairs but I was concerned about the heat. They were hotter than the old fittings, I was using 50w/60 degree halogens so I switched to 35w/60 degree which gave enough light and less heat (no sparks yet - I think/hope). With the LV's there is the extra transformer which also generates heat, does anyone think the transformers would be a problem lying on exposed lathes or are they not hot enough to worry about?

[ultimatehandyman]

I changed from standard (60w spots) to LV downlighters when I did some ceiling repairs but I was concerned about the heat. They were hotter than the old fittings, I was using 50w/60 degree halogens so I switched to 35w/60 degree which gave enough light and less heat (no sparks yet - I think/hope). With the LV's there is the extra transformer which also generates heat, does anyone think the transformers would be a problem lying on exposed lathes or are they not hot enough to worry about?

I would think they will be ok on laths as you are supposed to fasten them to the joists and so the heat should not be a problem.

It's loft insulation that worries me. I recently fitted 6 LV downlights and had to remove the insulation. I fastened the transformers to the joists and will be getting some pot drainage tiles and cutting them in half, I will then place these over the spotlights and then replace the insulation.

Gadget once suggested using pot plant pots, which is also a good idea!

[Rich-Ando]

I changed from standard (60w spots) to LV downlighters when I did some ceiling repairs but I was concerned about the heat. They were hotter than the old fittings, I was using 50w/60 degree halogens so I switched to 35w/60 degree which gave enough light and less heat (no sparks yet - I think/hope). With the LV's there is the extra transformer which also generates heat, does anyone think the transformers would be a problem lying on exposed lathes or are they not hot enough to worry about?

I would think they will be ok on laths as you are supposed to fasten them to the joists and so the heat should not be a problem.

It's loft insulation that worries me. I recently fitted 6 LV downlights and had to remove the insulation. I fastened the transformers to the joists and will be getting some pot drainage tiles and cutting them in half, I will then place these over the spotlights and then replace the insulation.

Gadget once suggested using pot plant pots, which is also a good idea!

weird thing that ain't it.

to the fitting instructions you must allow an airflow and remove insulation to provide a decent air flow around the lights.
according to building regs, you must not move insulation because that produces heat loss etc.

you decide yourself who's right.

UHM, you can also use the fire-proof spots, as you would expect, more expensive but they come fully shrouded.

[ultimatehandyman]

I changed from standard (60w spots) to LV downlighters when I did some ceiling repairs but I was concerned about the heat. They were hotter than the old fittings, I was using 50w/60 degree halogens so I switched to 35w/60 degree which gave enough light and less heat (no sparks yet - I think/hope). With the LV's there is the extra transformer which also generates heat, does anyone think the transformers would be a problem lying on exposed lathes or are they not hot enough to worry about?

I would think they will be ok on laths as you are supposed to fasten them to the joists and so the heat should not be a problem.

It's loft insulation that worries me. I recently fitted 6 LV downlights and had to remove the insulation. I fastened the transformers to the joists and will be getting some pot drainage tiles and cutting them in half, I will then place these over the spotlights and then replace the insulation.

Gadget once suggested using pot plant pots, which is also a good idea!

weird thing that ain't it.

to the fitting instructions you must allow an airflow and remove insulation to provide a decent air flow around the lights.
according to building regs, you must not move insulation because that produces heat loss etc.

you decide yourself who's right.

UHM, you can also use the fire-proof spots, as you would expect, more expensive but they come fully shrouded.

I wasn't sure about the fireproof spots, I thought perhaps they were fireproof, but still needed the insulation removing. I'm sure in my sisters kitchen extension they are normal spots and some of them are touching the insulation. I had to change one of the transformers the other week at hers as who ever fitted the spots put the transformer too close to the spotlight and it melted with the heat

[Hoovie]

Is it possible, any tips?????

Hi Jason - Old thread so I reckon you done it by now

Any additional tips to share after your install? (doing mine next week)