curve on a kitchen worktop

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:30 pm

I have to fit a worktop thats to be used as a bench (for an 'artist')

It requires the front edge to be rounded off, about a 7" radius each end, then the supplied iron on stuff to cover it.

How would you go about this?

panlid · Post by **panlid** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:36 pm

i use my worktop jig that has a built in radius edge.
before that i made a template out of 3/8 ply, clamp it to the worktop and use a guide bush in the router. remember that you have to attack the worktop from the formed edges to the middle if a brekky bar.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:46 pm

will do, cheers for that

Will do the ply templete

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:03 pm

any tips for the iron on stuff ?

Wood Magnet · Post by **Wood Magnet** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:21 pm

Make sure the iron is hot enough.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:51 pm

pitbull wrote:Make sure the iron is hot enough.

and use the customers iron

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:52 pm

most of them arnt iron on they need contact adhesive

the only ones I have fitted that iron were from MFI

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:30 pm

cheers tim, will take some adhesive as well. I presume it will be as you said, as this 4m length of worktop cost £200 odd.

panlid · Post by **panlid** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:58 pm

hank if it is a normal worktop your jig only needs to be half the width as you will have to turn the worktop over to do the other side.
the jig i make with a jigsaw then belt sand it smooth.
the edging is just solvent based contact adhesive and masking tape. try and get the top flush so it only needs a little file on the top. the bottom bit trim wioth a sharp knife and file.

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:26 pm

as sid said, and I will say again just so you are sure

you cant route in and out of the curve as it will smash out as it leaves the laminate edge

so you must make sure you do it in two halves going into the edge each way, which means flippin it over for the second bit

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 4:57 pm

first of all i'm not saying your wrong of anything

I jig sawed out the curve (100mm radius) to prep for routering and seen the finish was almost perfect. So, just hit it with the sander with fine sanding belt. It was perfect, so went with it. Looks good.

One thing i did notice (never done a curve before) is you cant let the curve go perfectly onto the front edge, (if you did, then the thickness of the edging strip would be a step to the worktop front edge) it needs to hit the front edge at a slight angle, then you can finish the edging strip stuff.........well thats what i did anyway. Hope you understand this description

How else could you finish the edging strip ?

panlid · Post by **panlid** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:15 pm

nope

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:34 pm

if the curve is a radius from the end to the front curved rounded finished edge of worktop, then when you put the edging strip (which is 1mm thick) round to the front rounded edge it will then have a step 1mm thick.

How do stop this step?

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:55 pm

file it flush

handyman · Post by **handyman** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:05 pm

is there a way of doing this, as the coloured part of the finishing strip is just on the surface, with the rest being a brown colour. If you file it to a smooth transition from the curved front edge of worktop, too the cut curve, then it will take about 5mm to do this, most of which will be brown.