Cutting a solid block wood top to shape of an L for a desk

[aeromech3]

Hi After some outlandish Bespoke quotes for my "new" bed/study room furniture, have decided I would like to DIY and shape a solid block wood kitchen top (Island) to use as a study worktop. An L shape, with a curve better still; in my olde woodwork days, we would have sawn and spoke shaved but my shoulders are not up to that; a large commercial band-saw would help.
I have seen most references here to using a 1/2 router and jig (don't have those) neither a 3" sander; so appreciate your latest advise and 240v tool suggestions?
Also many references to oiling the edges of solid wood for kitchens but what oil (Danish) don't want to stain my shirt when later I am working up against it?

[dewaltdisney]

There are lots of ways to do straight cuts but a curve requires some specific tools. I take on board your physical limitations so here is how I would approach it. For a straight cut L I would use a circular saw to cut to the corner of the L keeping the work well supported and clear of the blade. The final cuts to take out the circular undercut I would do with a hand saw. You would need to do a bit of sanding to take out the saw blade scars.

For a curve I would make a template from some ply and carefully mark out and cut the curve getting it exactly how I want it. I would then fix the template to the underside of the work and rough cut the curve a few mils away from the true with a jigsaw (all my jigsaw cuts are rough ) I would then use my router with a bearing cutter to do the finish trim using the bearing to follow the template. You can use the router fixed to a radius arm to achieve the same thing.

So given that you do not have the tools for the second option I would suggest the L option if you can borrow a circular saw

DWD

[aeromech3]

DWD many thanks, ply template good idea; forgot to mention I have a powerful circular saw and had thought about trying it out within the waste side of the L.
Not adverse to spending a bit on tooling (just pass the higher quote under Mrs Mc's nose again to get the nod), tool advice still awaited, also the oil Q?
Mc.

[dewaltdisney]

You do not need such a powerful router if you are just trimming back a few mil to line. You need a half inch router as the longer bearing cutters are usually half inch shanks.

This Draper one is a fair price, probably get it cheaper if you hunt around http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/wood-w ... 80002.aspx I have the Draper with a fixed and plunge bases. I have to say that I cannot fault it and out of all my routers I like it the most for handling apart from my small Bosch I use one handed. I saw a cheap belt sander in Aldi the other day.

I am not a fan of oil finishes and I use water based hard varnishes on oak. This keeps it pretty natural and it is a tough working surface that is easily cleaned.

DWD

[big-all]

if you use a jigsaw on thick material and on a tight ish radius its often worth turning the pendulum off more so if your approaching from both ends because the blade kicks out at the bottom the radius is a few mm greater at the end off the blade