Surface mounted worktop joining bolts

Questions about fitting kitchens in here please

Moderator: Moderators

royaloakcarpentry
Senior Member
Posts: 6620
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:48 pm
Location: Essex
Has thanked: 39 times
Been thanked: 621 times

Re: Surface mounted worktop joining bolts

Post by royaloakcarpentry »

If it is square edged timber worktop then you can butt joint them.

You need to leave an expansion gap between the worktop and wall.

There is no need to use any form of joining bolts.

a length of 12mm ply spanning the joint can be used. Make sure you drill holes bigger than the screw and use a washer with the screw, this allows the worktop to expand and contract.

Make sure if you fix up through the unit into the worktop that screw holes are as described above.

Better to take the arris off the worktop rather than leaving it square. A couple of passes with a plane will suffice and finish off before the join with a shamfer stop. If you leave it square edged it will be prone to damage.

After you finish oiling it, rub down with wire wool to leave it silky smooth.
timothy.e.doran
Newly registered Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:44 am
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: Surface mounted worktop joining bolts

Post by timothy.e.doran »

royaloakcarpentry wrote:If it is square edged timber worktop then you can butt joint them.

You need to leave an expansion gap between the worktop and wall.

There is no need to use any form of joining bolts.

a length of 12mm ply spanning the joint can be used. Make sure you drill holes bigger than the screw and use a washer with the screw, this allows the worktop to expand and contract.

Make sure if you fix up through the unit into the worktop that screw holes are as described above.

Better to take the arris off the worktop rather than leaving it square. A couple of passes with a plane will suffice and finish off before the join with a shamfer stop. If you leave it square edged it will be prone to damage.

After you finish oiling it, rub down with wire wool to leave it silky smooth.
Thanks for the tips. I plan on a 4mm expansion gap all the way around.

I have some ply in stock which would do the job. Here is an image showing a 45 mitre, but I would do a butt. Is this what you mean.
Image

I have also learnt a new word today; arris. I will remove that as I agree that it will be uncomfortable to lean on as well as prone to damage.

Thanks for your help
User avatar
BillyGoat
Troll Headbutter
Posts: 8071
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:20 pm
Location: On top of a mountain, in the long grass.
Has thanked: 386 times
Been thanked: 796 times

Re: Surface mounted worktop joining bolts

Post by BillyGoat »

moderator6 wrote:Handsaw? Luxury.


We used to cut them with a rusty bread knife in't middle of the road :lol:
You were at the posh end of town, having a bread knife!! :boxing:
Arguing with a woman is like reading a Software Licence Agreement.
In the end, you ignore everything and click "I agree".
royaloakcarpentry
Senior Member
Posts: 6620
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:48 pm
Location: Essex
Has thanked: 39 times
Been thanked: 621 times

Re: Surface mounted worktop joining bolts

Post by royaloakcarpentry »

Yes the diagram shows the correct way for joining timber work tops.

I would suspect that a 4mm expansion gap is insufficient, I have never fitted a work top where the minimum gap was as small as that. Check with the instructions for the work top, it should give the gap that the manufacturer requires.
Locked

Return to “Kitchen Fitting”