Knackered my Saw?

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:47 pm

I used my Tenon saw for cutting some laminate flooring yesterday and today.
When I then went to use it on some softwood skirting,it made really hard work of it- usually it cuts softwood really nicely

Have I knackered the saw using it on the Laminate?

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:15 pm

Probably, Laminate is tough stuff.

Oddly enough I have been doing some laminate recently, hence I never made it online yesterday!

owen · Post by **owen** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:18 pm

yes laminate destroys blades, i only use a jigsaw to cut the stuff as the blades are cheap and easily changed.

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:00 pm

Damn! any recommendations about a replacement Tenon, or just buy a basic one (DIY use, so only gets used occasionally).

I was thinking about getting one of those Mitre Saws (which is what I tend to use the Tenon for, with a mitre block) - Worthwhile instead of another Tenon?

On the saw to use for laminate, I found the Tenon was great for quality of cut, a Circular saw was pretty good also, but the jigsaw tended to cause a lot of splintering ( I was cutting laminate side down).

Any recommendations for best blade for laminate (got two big rooms and a hallway to do soon)?

owen · Post by **owen** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:03 pm

usually you don't have any cut edges showing with laminate, so it doesn't matter.

cutting upside down should stop splintering, or you can use down cutting blades with the laminate face up. needs to be sharp though.

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:08 pm

owen wrote:usually you don't have any cut edges showing with laminate, so it doesn't matter.

cutting upside down should stop splintering, or you can use down cutting blades with the laminate face up. needs to be sharp though.

I think I have been a bit mean on throwing away the used blades

I will have a look for down blades as well

EDIT:just had a look on SFX - these look like a good deal!
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 3&ts=15336
Any thoughts?

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:10 pm

Hoovie wrote:Damn! any recommendations about a replacement Tenon, or just buy a basic one (DIY use, so only gets used occasionally).

I was thinking about getting one of those Mitre Saws (which is what I tend to use the Tenon for, with a mitre block) - Worthwhile instead of another Tenon?

On the saw to use for laminate, I found the Tenon was great for quality of cut, a Circular saw was pretty good also, but the jigsaw tended to cause a lot of splintering ( I was cutting laminate side down).

Any recommendations for best blade for laminate (got two big rooms and a hallway to do soon)?

I use a metal cutting blade in the jigsaw and it works well

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 12:24 am

The Mitre Saws (cheap ones) are sh*t, bought a reasonable one from Bee and Pugh cut one piece of skirting and took it back, bought a mitre block and used my tenon and a good saw.

Jigs with a push blade work well, also try once you've marked the cut, covering the cut with clear adhesive tape, stick it down well (so don't get cheap stuff) once cut it peals of easy and reduces almost eliminates splintering.

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:13 am

Doh! I totally forgot about masking tape!

Used that in the past to stop splintering.
Cheers for info on Mitre Saws - they generally seemed too cheap to be good - I hve a mitre block I get on well with

lol - I'l ghet a new Tenon Saw to go along with it

Good tip on the metal jig baldes as well, UHM - I was using wood blades coz, laminate is wood (

).

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:07 am

Hoovie wrote:Doh! I totally forgot about masking tape! Used that in the past to stop splintering.
Cheers for info on Mitre Saws - they generally seemed too cheap to be good - I hve a mitre block I get on well with lol - I'l ghet a new Tenon Saw to go along with it

Good tip on the metal jig baldes as well, UHM - I was using wood blades coz, laminate is wood ( ).

Wood blades make a right mess of it because of the pitch of the blade. I'm off to cut my last few pieces now and then I can start to fit the beading

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:21 am

ultimatehandyman wrote: Wood blades make a right mess of it because of the pitch of the blade. I'm off to cut my last few pieces now and then I can start to fit the beading

That explains a lot actually.
Why are these things only obvious when someone points them out

Where do you get your beading from, btw? I have tended to get mine from BnQ and it is not cheap stuff.

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:27 am

Angie got it all as a job lot from carpet right.

The beading is never cheap!

This laminate recommends a 15mm gap all the way around, but the beading only covers 16mm

what a joke!

Electric nailers are good for fixing the beading and make it easy to fix

Hoovie · Post by **Hoovie** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:32 am

I bet the flooring was a fair old price from Carpet Right!

Don't know what you are complaining about - got 1mm to play with

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 9:38 am

Think it was just over £1000 for 30 square metres of laminate, underlay and beading.

carhartt kid · Post by **carhartt kid** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:39 pm

I use a Bahco Laminator hand saw for all laminate now. Cuts super fast

BAHCO Superior Hard Point Laminator Handsaw
20" (508mm). Thick blade makes for stable, straight cuts through laminate flooring and improved cross and rip cutting. Excellent for cutting wet timber. Fine cut. 11tpi.

* XT Hardpoint Teeth
* Triple-Ground
* Ergonomic Bi-Component Handle
* Low Friction Powder Coating

About £11 from screwthicks or beancue!!