kitchen door
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kitchen door
Hi Guys- I`ve been tasked with fitting hinges to a kitchen unit door that was previously one of the ` open the door and a Heath Robinson device transports half a dozen wire baskets in your face` type thing. The mechanism was attached to the centre of the door, so no hinges. My problem is, on the right hand side where I want to attach the hinges, there is a `stop` for the door as it was. This is full height, part of the carcase, and is inset by about 1 cm from the front edge of the carcase, is 1cm thick, and is about 10cm wide. I`m going to have to mount my hinge receivers on this, rather than on the side of the carcase itself as would be done normally. Do I just drill the cup 1cm further along the door and mount as normal? This would leave a longer `trailing edge` to the door than normal, will it operate correctly? Sorry didn't take any pics, and doing it tomorrow. Cheers all.
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Re: kitchen door
Are you saying it's an 'in frame' kitchen?
If so you can use 'in frame' hinges. Moving where the hinge is mounted on the door will not work.
If so you can use 'in frame' hinges. Moving where the hinge is mounted on the door will not work.
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Re: kitchen door
This is an example of an in frame kitchen - Notice how the doors a drawers are inset in a frame and not covering the whole width/height of the unit
Not often I recommend howdens, but you more than like have one near you so... http://www.howdens.com/kitchen-collecti ... -kitchens/
Not often I recommend howdens, but you more than like have one near you so... http://www.howdens.com/kitchen-collecti ... -kitchens/
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Re: kitchen door
Thanks for your reply colour. No, it`s a standard full height, full width door, and standard carcase construction. Imagine if you took a normal unit, say 600mm wide, which has an interior measurement of 570mm, then affixed another 10mm thick piece of wood to the interior right hand side, basically making the interior of the unit 10mm narrower, or 560mm. So the door still aligns with the exterior of the unit all round, but the mounting of the hinges is 10mm out, to the left, if you see what I mean. The whole door will be thrown to the left if I fit it using standard hinge fitting measurements, and all I can think of is to drill the hinge cup 10mm further out than standard to accommodate.
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Re: kitchen door
Can you cut a chunk out of this wood?
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Re: kitchen door
Don`t know whether I could cut a slot neatly enough in veneered chipboard like that, tbh.
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Re: kitchen door
I suspect it is only a filler piece held on by a couple of screws from behind, I doubt it is glued on. Carefully cut away an inch or so at the top and see if it comes free then you should be able to remove some sections to allow you to unwind the remaining parts off the screws. Cut screws off and then use normal cup hinges.
DWD
DWD
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Re: kitchen door
Walt- I`ll certainly look into removing it. The unit in question is a double base unit going into a corner. The mechanism pulls a double storage basket from the right side of the unit, this upright is in the middle, as you say more filler than anything but provides the RHS frame/fill/stop for the door. Not easy to get to, but I`ll feel around and see if I can find any screws.
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Re: kitchen door
Ahhhh you mean a magic corner
The unit shouldn't have been set up any differently for a magic corner than it would have done for a hinged door (except in some cases the internal depth is altered so less of a void behind, but that wouldn't affect what you're trying to do)
You should be able to fix normal hinges on to that centre post, or if not a blind corner hinge. It is hard to say without seeing a picture of it, if for some reason there is something weird about that unit.
One thing is for sure, you can't change where you drill the back of the door. It will not work.
The unit shouldn't have been set up any differently for a magic corner than it would have done for a hinged door (except in some cases the internal depth is altered so less of a void behind, but that wouldn't affect what you're trying to do)
You should be able to fix normal hinges on to that centre post, or if not a blind corner hinge. It is hard to say without seeing a picture of it, if for some reason there is something weird about that unit.
One thing is for sure, you can't change where you drill the back of the door. It will not work.
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Re: kitchen door
Cheers Colour- Is that a given, then? My idea of cutting the hinge cup further along the door would not work? sh*t. It`s this extra piece that`s been fitted as a `stop` for the door that`s causing the problem, I know. I`ts making the internal width non standard, but I don`t suppose the fitter ever expected hinges to be fitted. I`m gonna have another look tomorrow, but I`m not going to drill if I can`t get this filler piece off and treat it like a standard door. Don`t want to do more harm than good! Cheers.
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Re: kitchen door
All done chaps- thanks to all for advice. I`m not a kitchen fitter as you have probably guessed, it was just me over analysing things. The aperture was correct after all, it was just the way the door sat in the `corner` formed by the filler piece, made it look as if it wouldn`t open. Ah well, we live and learn. I got a bit windy when drilling out the hinge cup as well, but that`s another story! Thanks again.