Cutting worktop for breakfast table.

[Chop]

Had a phonecall from the Broinlaw, he has just had new worktops fitted in his kitchen to brighten it up and in his kitchen he has a table that had a matching top to his old worktop, it was circular made out of a 900 breakfast bar and edged.

He wants to make another tabletop out of his leftover worktop and that's where I come in. He's had a go and so far messed up both attempts, he is now down to his last piece of worktop, so no pressure!

He either wants a round top or square with rounded corners.

I have some laminate jigsaw blades, I can't remember which type exactly, they are Bosch, Laminate and good for 40mm worktops.

Obviously when we've cut out he wants the edging on so the edge needs to be reasonably straight and flat to take the edging, I have a planer but haven't used it on a rounded edge, or sure if it's possible?

Essentially what I'm asking is how best to get a flat edge on the cutout?

Apologies if this seems tedious or unnecessary questioning but it's a genuine enquiry.

[stevei]

I may be stating the bleeding ovbious but how about a router with a work top guide.

[dewaltdisney]

I did this a long time back and as I recall I made sure that the radius of the curve was not too tight for the edging (it was thicker in those days). I made a jig from ply which I cut accurately and sanded smooth. I then rough cut the corners oversize with my jigsaw proud and then screwed the jig on the underside. I then used a bottom bearing straight cutter in my small router and trimmed it perfectly square riding the edge of the jig with the bearing.

I think these days I would use a top bearing straight cutter and run the tip just below the top veneer to allow the edge to be stuck under the top side and run the laminate trimmer to get a finished edge.

Hope this helps

DWD

[Chop]

Thanks for the responses, looks like making a jig and doing it with a router is the best way.

Looks like I'm going to have to get a router cutter long enough, the longest I have is only about 30mm and I'd have to make passes from each side, can't see that working.

Thanks again.

[fin]

i did kinda this thing the other day.

kitchen were fitting has been designed with a little island made up out of 2 600mm wall units on legs. this will have decor ends and a panel on the back.

we measured up and i think it worked out best with an overhang of 2 and 5\8th over both sides and the back and whatever the overhang was on the front to match the other units. (ive forgotten what it actually is ) i cut the basic rectangle with my ts55 and a 48 tooth stehle circular blade. the blade was brand new.

id had a brand new trend blade in before this and it was rubbish. with the stehle blade it was perfect. effortless cutting and zero chipping.

the blade type was reccomended to me by speed during a pm chat.

i then rounded all the corners with my trend worktop jig and router.

the worktops were howdens jamocha granite effect. i found out that they do a 5m length of the edging to match so id have only 1 joint. i decided to evo stick it on even though ive seen a few different methods lately for sticking laminate edging on.

good job. now its just have you got access to that sort of gear?

id not try cutting it out with a jigsaw like.

[fin]

router cutter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Trend-BR0 ... 5d4a99f750

maybe cheaper from howdens though if ya got an account

[Chop]

Thanks Fin, I have a circular saw which will do the straight cut no bother, am I better to cut from the underside of the worktop for this to prevent chipping, or would a strip of masking tape on the cut line over the formica help at all?


Thanks for the cutter link Fin, I will have to have a shop around and see if I can find one local.

I have Evo Contact adhesive and a flat file for trimming the edging.

[fin]

have an experiment i guess. i always used to cut from the underside with a circular saw. then i got my ts55 and i was converted. however i dunno if id risk a normal circ cutting from the top. i have in the past for hob cutouts and sink cutouts. but the cut edge is hidden.

sometimes i guess it can help putting masking tape on. it certainly makes any markings more visible.

i guess if you can run the circ saw against something you could try running it backwards to score the laminate.

i think those cutters run at about £9 from howdens. dunno if thats plus or inc vat.

a block plane comes in handy also to take the edging down a bit.

[big-all]

to score the laminate you do a pass 1mm deep then full depth

[ayjay]

I have a circular saw which will do the straight cut no bother, am I better to cut from the underside of the worktop for this to prevent chipping, or would a strip of masking tape on the cut line over the formica help at all?

Masking tape is only really of any use to see your pencil marks more easily.

For cutting upside down - make sure the top is firm on a bench, no flexing or wobbling. (I'd clamp everything together so nothing can move.)

Set the blade (a sharp fine tooth jobby) about 6mm deeper than the thickness of the top (you want the teeth to cut up into the underside not just run along what will be the face with the tips only just clearing)

Use a straightedge to run the saw against, take it slow and steady, don't stop, otherwise you'll get burn marks and if there's slightest variation/wobble in the arc of the blade it will cause tiny notches in the edge.

. however i dunno if id risk a normal circ cutting from the top.

I've got a 7.25" blade with about 96 teeth, I can just about get way with it using that - carefully.

[Chop]

Thanks for the tips B-A and Ayjay, duly noted.

My circ blade is still sharp, swapped it the other day, but nowhere near 96 teeth, probs half of that.

So I'm thinking now, cut slightly oversize, from the underside with my circ. saw by about 2mm, plane those edges with the Mak planer, then using the router and some form of jig use with the new cutter for taking off the arc corners?

Then use the planer to smooth any transition between the straight and curved edges?

Are we getting nearer or farther away?

[stevei]

As you seem to have a router, I would do it the way dewaltdisney described. Trying to get a flat edge on worktop with a hand held planer is not my idea of fun . The cutter will come in handy for other jobs so don't be too nervous about spending a bit on it. I use mine to trim the bottom and top of doors I have to fit. Makes an easy job of it.

[Chop]

Looking at some of the reviews the cheaper bit are virtually disposable! I'll tell him he needs a trend or similar, then to remember to put it in my toolbox when we've done.

[royaloakcarpentry]

Even better.......tell him how much it is going to cost, with no discount.

He may well get other quotes and go elsewhere.

[philprime]

I agree with others new router bit and don't buy the cheapest they are just not worth the money.

I have cut many a worktop with a circular saw but I have a 9in with a 60tooth blade

Always flip the top over and take it slowly