Start to Finish Solid Oak Herringbone Floor

[Wes]

Looks great, especially the skirtings

Why did you bliind it up with sand. Does it add strength to the primer coat?

Top job

Cheers Ray

The sand blinding was to give added grip for the K301. As an aside, the primer coat (Ardex R3E) we're talking about came in at a little over £250 per tub. We used two tubs I've gotta say, it is one seriously good product though..

[Wes]

Fantasic job there wes, how long did the job take

Cheers Phil

We had the blocks down in four days with some late nights. There's actually a decent sized office we did coming off the hallway that's not visible in the pics. The sanding and lacquering was a day and a half. The grinding and first prep took two days. Then the subsequent layers from the first epoxy primer to the K15 took four days..

I'd say with visits in between, the job took just shy of two weeks (Man hours). Baring in mind there were drying times required with the prep layers and adhesive. With waiting, the job took near five weeks to completion..The area was a little over 60 sqm..

[Job and Knock]

Nice one, Wes!

Interesting thast you guys actually scavenge the sanding dust and use that as a filler. That is the opposite of what a furniture maker would do. Do you seal the wood then add they filler? What about colour differences?

[Razor]

you guys actually scavenge the sanding dust and use that as a filler. That is the opposite of what a furniture maker would do.

I always thought that was exactly what they did and called it glust??

I'm sure I saw Norm do it once

[Wes]

Nice one, Wes!

Cheers JK

Interesting thast you guys actually scavenge the sanding dust and use that as a filler. That is the opposite of what a furniture maker would do. Do you seal the wood then add they filler? What about colour differences?

It's to ensure an all round even tone and also from a practicality point of view. Imagine using individual coloured fillers for thousands of blocks...I'm sure there are sand and finishers that may do that, but my client wanted to live in the house before they buried him or shipped him off to Mars Of course, if there's a very badly or large gapped areas, adding a different shade filler would be the best thing to do if the even tone doesn't look right.

(I'm not a sander and finisher by the way )..

Although, you might think so, once it has all been re-sanded, you just cannot spot any gaps that have been filled. Although, with these particular blocks, they went together with minimal gapping at all. If you look at the close up picture, that's pretty much how 99% of the blocks went together.

No, the wood isn't sealed first. It's sanded and vacuumed, then the dust is mixed with an epoxy resin (they do make water based additives) and typically squeegeed into any gaps or if it's a very gappy floor, the filler would just be figure eighted all over.

I assume furniture makers would pigment their filler mixes to suite?? On small pieces, that's something I'd certainly do..

[Wes]

you guys actually scavenge the sanding dust and use that as a filler. That is the opposite of what a furniture maker would do.

I always thought that was exactly what they did and called it glust??

I'm sure I saw Norm do it once

Same here. Always use the same dust as the workpiece. Unless the timber had greatly differing colours/tones. Then perhaps, mess with the mix.

[nick200]

Wes, that looks great!