Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

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Distorted Vision
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Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

We had a new bathroom installed a week ago. When the installers asked me to turn off the stopcock, I also turned off the isolation valve for the outside tap. I tried to use my pressure washer today and the flow from the outside tap is a fraction of what it was before. I should mention I don't think we've ever turned the outside tap isolation valve off in the 30 years of living in this house.

I stripped the outside tap and replaced the 3 screws and the nylon anchor plugs as it was very loose and the pipes were moving when we opened and closed the tap:

Image

The outside tap is the top one and the stopcock below:

Image

When I open the tap I can hear the sound of rushing water which wasn't there before:



Here's a video showing the poor water pressure / flow from the outside tap:



I know little about plumbing but the only thing I think it could is the isolation valve. I read that current water regulations require you to fit a double check valve to the outside tap pipework. I don't think there is one. How much should I expect to pay a plumber to replace the isolation valve and fit a double check valve?

Also I was wondering what is the best brand for outside taps? I wanted to buy the best I could rather than leaving it to the plumber.

Many thanks!
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chrrris
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by chrrris »

Most outside taps have the double-check valve built in so that they comply with the regs. Although I guess your old one might not if it is really 30 years old.

I would expect to pay somewhere between £50 and £100 for the work, depending on where you live, and who you get to do it -- me, I'd be nearer the lower end of that scale, but a GasSafe registered, fully qualified plumber will charge more for his time than me (and rightly so).

Also, if you ask someone to quote over the phone without seeing it, it'll probably be higher still because the quote will allow for all sorts unforeseen circumstances that may or may not actually apply when he/she rocks up to do the job.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Someone-Else »

Distorted Vision, I can't help but wonder, if you took the outside tap off with no problem, why don't you change the isolation valve yourself? (or at least take it off and see if there is any "dirt" in it)
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Distorted Vision
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

I wanted to fit a combined double check valve and isolating valve with an outside BIB tap without a built-in DCV like this one:

Image

The reason being that I read a lot that the DVC inside the taps in the built-in ones are prone to cracking if the tap freezes in winter.
This part is longer than the isolation valve I currently have and it will require either cutting the copper pipe with the elbow going through wall outside, or complete replacing it. The latter would be way beyond my DIY skills so I think its best I ask a plumber to do it. I'll ask my parents for the number of the plumber they use for these smaller jobs as he's always reasonable on price.
someone-else wrote:Distorted Vision, I can't help but wonder, if you took the outside tap off with no problem, why don't you change the isolation valve yourself? (or at least take it off and see if there is any "dirt" in it)
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by wine~o »

Looks to me like you are barely opening the internal stop-cock, open it up 3 to 4 full turns and you'll find the flow increases substantially.

Chuck a new double check tap outside.

As for freezing come winter turn off the water inside and open the outside tap. No chance of damage to the outer tap then.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

That's the most I can open the isolation valve. Also its dripping very slightly at the top around the handle. I'm pretty sure it needs replacing.
I'd rather not have to keep turning the isolation tap on and off during winter as we actually still use the outside tap often during winter.
Is there anything wrong with the solution I proposed?
wine~o wrote:Looks to me like you are barely opening the internal stop-cock, open it up 3 to 4 full turns and you'll find the flow increases substantially.

Chuck a new double check tap outside.

As for freezing come winter turn off the water inside and open the outside tap. No chance of damage to the outer tap then.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by wine~o »

Distorted Vision wrote: Is there anything wrong with the solution I proposed?
I can't be certain but there doesn't look to be enough room to fit the valve in your pic.

The reason the existing valve won't open more is thru lack of use, keep opening and closing it and it'll soon free up, as for the leak from the packing gland nut, they all do that in time, a quick tighten if the small nut at the bottom of the spindle should fix it.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

I'll try and free up the valve with some WD40 and try and tightening the nut. You might be right about not enough room fitting the combined DCV and isolation valve. I did measure and it looked like it would come to just before the elbow that goes to outside.
wine~o wrote:
Distorted Vision wrote: Is there anything wrong with the solution I proposed?
I can't be certain but there doesn't look to be enough room to fit the valve in your pic.

The reason the existing valve won't open more is thru lack of use, keep opening and closing it and it'll soon free up, as for the leak from the packing gland nut, they all do that in time, a quick tighten if the small nut at the bottom of the spindle should fix it.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by wine~o »

WD40 is unlikely to help, it's the mechanism itself that has partly seized due to lack of use. Just keep opening and closing and with patience it'll free up..
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by chrrris »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPc3Y4xavts

That should help you with stopping the leak from the glad nut in the stop tap, but only do that when you free'd up the tap and got it opening and closing all the way.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

I made a little progress. I removed the boxing around the pipework to make it easier to get to. Not bothered about doing this as we were planning on getting it the boxing redone when we get the room completely done in a few months.

Anyway, I tightened the packing gland nut and it completely dropped the leak. I then undid both the nuts on the compression fitting but I wasn't able to remove the valve from the pipe at all either side so I just tightened them up. When I opened the stopcock and the isolation tap I went outside and the jet of water was hitting the fence. I thought I fixed it but when I turned the isolation tap off and tried it again later its gone back to the same. Not been able to get it at full pressure again.

Can anyone please give me a tip on removing the isolation valve. Can I replace it with one of these:

Image

Many thanks!
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

I undid the the compression nuts, this is a photo above:

Image

I'm still not able to remove the valve. I also noticed that the arrow on the valve is the opposite direction to the water flow!
When I tightened the nuts back and opened the valve, the water pressure was as normal until I closed the valve and tried again:



I just want to replace the valve and be done with it.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by chrrris »

You'll have to pull one end or t'other of the pipework out of the stop tap to remove it. Looking at your photos you may have to undo the two elbows on the entry side of it if there isn't enough give in the pipework at the moment. You can use the existing compression nuts and olives that are on the pipe with a new tap, so should be a fairly straight-forward task. Sounds like the problem is that the tap is fitted the wrong way around though -- so flipping it round the right way should do the trick, although I'd be inclined just to replace it for the few quid a new tap will cost... saves mucking about if flipping it round doesn't do the job.
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by wine~o »

Distorted Vision wrote:I undid the the compression nuts, this is a photo above:

Image

I'm still not able to remove the valve. I also noticed that the arrow on the valve is the opposite direction to the water flow!
When I tightened the nuts back and opened the valve, the water pressure was as normal until I closed the valve and tried again:



I just want to replace the valve and be done with it.
As Chrrris has pointed out you don't have enough "Wiggle room" to get the old tap out (Without removing / replacing some other pipework)

Even if you could, the ISO valve will be much shorter than the stop-tap so wouldn't be a direct replacement.....
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Re: Replacing outside tap and isolation valve

Post by Distorted Vision »

Thanks guys. I'm away for the Bank Holiday weekend so I'll sort it next week. I'll pick up a stopcock from Screwfix and replace it like for like.
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