floor board lifting /cutting

[big-all]

i normaly use a circular saw or
jigsaw on its nose where you gradualy tip untill the blade starts to cut[not for the inexperianced ]


because of the other thread about flooring removal i decided to reduce a blade to 30mm visible length
the choice of 30mm was because the stroke is 25mm this would stop the blade leaving the wood as it protrudes5 mm into the wood
this worked realy well as long as you have pendulum on full and dont push to hard causing the blade to dig in on the down stroke and jump out the cut causing dents in the top

decided as an experiment to reduce a blade to 22mm did it work with the blade leaving the work by 3mm every stroke !!!!!!!










well yes it did briliantly as long as you dont push to hard and cut around 1/3 normal speed its fine

so in short cut a normal upstroke blade [bosch 101b or d or equivilent]22mm from the base plate square and ground flat so no sharp edges to dammage wires and pipes

then you can nose plunge into the centre of the cut to the edge then cut from the centre to the other side
jobs a good un

[Steve. F]

unusual method big-all
I may just have to try that one myself.
you're right:
we are all still learning

[Hoovie]

A few of my floorboards have been cut at a 45 Deg angle and that seemed quite an interesting idea to provide extra support

As a by-product, doing it that way could also allow the Big-All trimmed jigsaw blade method to maybe work even better as the blade could be left slightly longer and therefore not leave the cut completely - what you guys reckon?

[Steve. F]

With any type of plunge cutting using a jigsaw always switch the pendulum to off until the blade is fully into the cut, unless you like youre jigsaw stotting violently out of control that is.
That is of course if the jigsaw you are using has a pendulum action.

sounds good enough to me hoovie...

[big-all]

With any type of plunge cutting using a jigsaw always switch the pendulum to off until the blade is fully into the cut, unless you like youre jigsaw stotting violently out of control that is.
That is of course if the jigsaw you are using has a pendulum action.

:

now i will fully agree with normal length blades
and possibly fine whilst rotating a cut down blade till the soleplate in on the board

now my thoughts are a cut down blade only works because the pendulum action lets the blade drop back as it pulls out allowing the blade to re-enter the wood before the blade is fushed forward again

now i am quite shure the teeth would happily push its way down through half a mm of wood but without pendulum half the cutting would be done on the down stroke

so what i am realy saying is i havent tried it with pendulum off but it may work

will also try tomorow wilth a 111c blade that will cut both directions [i think

[Steve. F]

I'm pretty sure that bosch 101b downward cutting blades should not be used with a pendulum action at all.
OK at the most with a stage one pendulum to increase your cutting speed when cutting thick laminated worktops and the like.
Anything more on the pendulum stage and you will require serious effort to keep the jigsaw jumping off the workpiece.
Of course this statement is true if using a full length blade.
I cant comment on the big-all special modified blade as yet coz i aint tried it YET!
Im always keen to put new methods to practice and if this is a success then who knows mabe the jigsaw will favour my circular saw for my future floorboard tasks.
Watch this space...

[Steve. F]

A few of my floorboards have been cut at a 45 Deg angle and that seemed quite an interesting idea to provide extra support

As a by-product, doing it that way could also allow the Big-All trimmed jigsaw blade method to maybe work even better as the blade could be left slightly longer and therefore not leave the cut completely - what you guys reckon?

After having a bit more time to think about this one i would say that if you are to proceed with angle cutting the flooring then id suggest doing it by hand.
ie with a padsaw.
At least to start the cut anyway.
Trying to do a plunge cut with a jigsaw is as big all says not for the inexperienced let alone trying to do one with the sole flipped to a 45 degree angle.
I do not think that an angled plunge cut would be a successful way of starting the cut by any means.

[gib_goblin]

Can't you just drill a hole the same diameter as the blade then start your cut like normal?

[Steve. F]

Yes the easiest ways are sometimes the best ways...

[tim'll fix it]

Can't you just drill a hole the same diameter as the blade then start your cut like normal?

no, because you cant jigsaw with a full blade over a joist

[gib_goblin]

Can't you just drill a hole the same diameter as the blade then start your cut like normal?

no, because you cant jigsaw with a full blade over a joist

ok, but you could still use a cut-down blade..or am I missing something from the descriptions above of how they're cutting the boards?

[tim'll fix it]

floorboards should be cut over a joist, so that each piece has something to rest on afterwards

due the action of a jigsaw you cant use it over a joist, what big all is saying is that he has made the blade shorter so it just cuts through the floorboard and not whats below

[gib_goblin]

floorboards should be cut over a joist, so that each piece has something to rest on afterwards

due the action of a jigsaw you cant use it over a joist, what big all is saying is that he has made the blade shorter so it just cuts through the floorboard and not whats below

I see what you mean, I still think an ickle hole wiv a cut-down jig blade would do nicely over the joist. Wouldn't do any harm, just check the depth and don't go drilling into the joist!

[Steve. F]

Can't you just drill a hole the same diameter as the blade then start your cut like normal?

no, because you cant jigsaw with a full blade over a joist

Check out my previous post under "Lifting floorboards"
you will find that no one has said that you can use a full depth blade whilst cutting directly over a joist.
And yes i do agree that cutting on a joist is a better method which i myself practice.
All im saying is that sometimes this is not possible:
Heres an example:
say you wanted to lift a board for running in a pipe or cable down an internal partition.
Assuming that you are on an upper floor and you find that the closest joist is 300mm from a non load bearing partition on the same floor in which case the joists are running parrallel to the partition yes.
now assume that you wanted to run a pipe or cable down into a partition directly below this and cutting your floor board half on your nearest joist did not give you access to the centre line of downstairs partition.
if this was the case then perhaps the flooring would need to be cut further than the joist for lower partition access without anything to support floor because you have a partition immediately in front stopping you from cutting flooring even further to the next joist..................
PHEW!!!! :hmph:

Now if you wanted to do this then this is where the bridging piece comes in.
But in this case it would not be screwed to the side of joist cos there isn't one but to the underside of flooring screwed through from top of floor boards at either side of the lifted one.
Ye get me!!!!!

[Hitch]

When you cut down the blade BA, did you replicate the shape thats was at the bottom of it? Thats something to do with allowing it to cut whilst plunging instead of bouncing around....

Like the green blade here