Lodge 120m2 extension - my most ambitious DIY project!!

getthewheelsinline · Post by **getthewheelsinline** » Sun Aug 14, 2016 8:29 pm

More progress...although as we are doing it ourselves it it happening when we have time!

Anyway,Added Timber to the steel lintels using M8x 50 coach screws:

Had my two nieces & nephew stay over for a sleep over during their school holidays. The next morning they helped out with the wetvac.

This isn't what I had meant by trial fitting the window...ha!

On with more of the internal supporting walls
- bedroom wall with door:

& the kitchen wall

On with the framing of the bathroom & single bedroom wall - still to be sheeted...

On with the utility wall - also still to be sheeting...

Lost my 15mx10m tarpaulin in 50mph winds last weekend![emoji853]

Got it back up but it is a tad worse for wear!!

Started to block out the steel for the first floor joists. Had to cut down 195x45 to fit in beam & then packed out with 5mm plywood to bring timber flush with beam flanges.

And installed with M12 threaded rod @ 600mm centres.

Commenced the first floor joints 195x45 C24 grade @ 600mm centres. 5.4m lengths are heavy! Added a 195x45 C16 grade as a binder around perimeter:

Plan to get a few nights in this week to keep things moving forward!

steviejoiner74 · Post by **steviejoiner74** » Sun Aug 14, 2016 9:43 pm

Really tidy framing mate,it's looking good

getthewheelsinline · Post by **getthewheelsinline** » Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:05 pm

Cheers Stevie! Think it is only you following the thread...ha! Nice to receive positive comments from a pro!

I'm actually really enjoying the framing! & loving building our dream home with our own blood, sweat & tears! [emoji41]

BillyGoat · Post by **BillyGoat** » Mon Aug 15, 2016 6:45 am

I'm following too! Really enjoy the updates, so don't stop!

Awesome work - love it!!

BG

Rorschach · Post by **Rorschach** » Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:08 am

I am also following, I have no expertise to share but I am certainly enjoying watching the progress.

getthewheelsinline · Post by **getthewheelsinline** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:17 pm

Hi All,

Been working on the first floor joists (195x45 C24) ..my mate came down on Sat and we got 70% of the joists in. Zara & I got the smaller joists up the following day:

Joist hangers used to attach the blocking timbers & joists:

Framed out the staircase opening - still to double up the trimmer on one side but plan to run this through into the slap out:

Here is a panorama midway through progress:

A couple of questions: (probably for @stevie!!) Extract from my drawings below.

1. What is the purpose of the double header joist when joist a running parallel to binder?

2. Architect has shown that he has sandwiched the first floor chipboard under first floor walls. I assume I can fit walls direct to floor joists? As I do not plan to order the chip board flooring until I have roof on & am semi weather tight!

Thanks in advance!

getthewheelsinline · Post by **getthewheelsinline** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:21 pm

Sorry....forgot to attach the below!

BillyGoat · Post by **BillyGoat** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:21 pm

Looking good! Some good progress going on - is this during the day or free hours?

Also, is that wood from B&Q

BG

thescruff · Post by **thescruff** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:34 pm

I'm following as well

getthewheelsinline · Post by **getthewheelsinline** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:07 pm

BillyGoat wrote:Looking good! Some good progress going on - is this during the day or free hours?

Also, is that wood from B&Q

BG

Free hours - hence the slow pace! Run my own engineering buisness which keeps me busy during the day! I go back to work on a Monday for a rest! [emoji23][emoji41]

Wood was imported from Australia....

steviejoiner74 · Post by **steviejoiner74** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 5:17 pm

The architect has drawn the details probably not understanding how a timber frame house is constructed.
The floor most certainly doesn't go under the wall sections,it needs 10mm clearance from the structure/wall sections all the way round the perimeter.There are two ways of doing this.
First way is a 22x145 or 18mm "panel packer/location plate" is nailed directly onto the first floor joists and you nail the panel on top of the packer(ensuring its fixed through joists as well).
Second and my preferred way is a 45x145 "panel packer/location plate" does excactly the same job as the above but it's giving you a double bottom runner instead of the 1st method which is basically separating the flooring from the packer.
This only applies when the panels are sitting on joists,if the ground floor is concrete then a doubled 145x45 is required.

The double joist thing again has been drawn by someone not experienced in how a timber frame goes together.
The way to do it is the same for a 4 or 6inch kit,the dwangs are just a different size.
You firstly set a ring beam/edge binder(same dimension as the joists but usually c16 to save on ££) all the way round the perimeter and nail go the head binder it's seated on.
Next you want the two joists that run parallel with the wall seated 22.5mm(if it's 45mm thick) on the binder below and nailed,this gives a solid seat for the panel and an edge to nail the flooring and ceiling below.This leaves a gap between the outside binder and first joist of 77.5mm which is dwanged with full height dwangs at 600centres.
The joists that run into the binder at 90 degrees are nailed through the binder into the end of the joists and again dwanged full height and nailed so they sit half on the head binder below giving a fixing for the flooring,the kit and the ceiling below.
I hope you can understand,I'll try and find a drawing or photo to make things clearer!!

Just to add I've also seen a treble joist for the panel to sit(overkill)on and a lenght of 2x2 nailed onto the treble to take the floor and ceiling below.
Check with your architect,they are usually pretty flexible on details like this.

steviejoiner74 · Post by **steviejoiner74** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 5:44 pm

Here's the general idea,they show a 45x95 kit,yours is 45x145 so the gap is a bit bigger but you can see how the kit sits half on the joist,you need to dwang between of course to tie the two in.

getthewheelsinline · Post by **getthewheelsinline** » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:51 pm

Thanks Stevie!

I checked some of the other drawings and I can see that he excluded the flooring from under some of the first floor walls after all! His standard detail must just be incorrect!

I understand your description of header / joist positions. I will space 2nd header joist (packed out with dwangs) overhanging inner wall face by half & on the perpendicular joists I will add full depth dwangs overhanging the wall also.

So I would add in as below? Yellow arrows being full length joists or dwangs depending on joist orientation.

jmower2007 · Post by **jmower2007** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 8:21 am

have loved following this thread keep up the good work

steviejoiner74 · Post by **steviejoiner74** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:45 am

getthewheelsinline wrote:Thanks Stevie!

I checked some of the other drawings and I can see that he excluded the flooring from under some of the first floor walls after all! His standard detail must just be incorrect!

I understand your description of header / joist positions. I will space 2nd header joist (packed out with dwangs) overhanging inner wall face by half & on the perpendicular joists I will add full depth dwangs overhanging the wall also.

So I would add in as below? Yellow arrows being full length joists or dwangs depending on joist orientation.

Yeah