Lodge 120m2 extension - my most ambitious DIY project!!

[Chop]

Wow what a thread, nothing but admiration for what you have done so far!

[getthewheelsinline]

Hi All!

Well things have been hectic the last few weeks...technically not with the build but with the birth of our first born son, Ezra, 7lbs3oz on the 7th Jan! We both are over the moon & he is just amazing! Can't wait till he is helping me build his treehouse & such likes! [emoji106]



I have although managed a few days on the build between nappy changes! [emoji41]

Cleared the upstairs ready for the flooring to go down. The 18mm plywood was only temporary during construction.





The 22mm P5 chipboard was glued to joists & tongues with D4 glue then the boards mechanically secured with 4.5x60 SPAX flooring screws - 4 along each joist.



I have left the opening for the staircase without flooring . Likewise where the ensuite is going as I plan to have underfloor heating in this area. After speaking with the Polypipe UFH manager, I have agreed to secure 18mm plywood deck between the joists then lay the polypipe 18mm thk cement boards which have the pipe channels all ready routered. Tiles can then be glued directly to the cement board. This ensures the floor buildup will not be excessive; 18mm board plus tile compared with 22mm flooring & carpet in the rest of the upstairs.



I have over half the floor complete - up to the point where the joist orientation changes. The boards will now run 90deg to the first lot with a butt along this joist.



Hope to possibly finish the remaining floor on Saturday.

Our Christmas present arrived yesterday from Denmark .....velux terrace .... 7boxes...270kg! I plan to attempt to install this the weekend after completing the flooring...wish me luck!!



Must shot...nappy calling!

[dewaltdisney]

Many congratulations to you both on the birth of your son Ezra I am sure he will have much love.

Good luck with the continuing project it is looking good .

DWD

[AAA.Handy.Man]

May I second those congratulations.

Ezra

AND
Further congratulate you on proving that men CAN multi-task.

[steviejoiner74]

Congratulations mate!!
Plenty pics of the velux install for the members as well!

[AAA.Handy.Man]

Agreed, Steve

This thread has become somewhat of a Reference source for me, with the central narrative and pictorial support being enhanced by the input from so many generous skilled and knowledgeable members.

[BillyGoat]

Congrats on the new arrival - he's going to have a palace to swan around in when you're done!!!!

BG

[getthewheelsinline]

Thanks for the congrats guys! Wee man is doing great!



Few more deliveries...
25x 100mm PIR insulation boards for the stud walls
60x 125mm PIR insulation boards for the rafters & floor.



A few of my mates have said they will come round next weekend to start fitting this![emoji106]

Also ordered the polypipe underfloor heating components (pipes, manifold, mixer pump, controls etc) due this end of Feb.

So the weekends task was to get the velux terrace fitted....2 of mates along with my dad came over to give me a hand on Saturday...

First off was to look out the instructions....oh boy ....pages & pages of them!



So...this is the opening we started with that I had allowed for when framing the roof - 1630mm between the double rafters rather side of opening - centre rafter was just a temp support for sarking.



The eagle eyed will spot only one top trimmer as I put this in the wrong location...the short rafters should have been cut back by another 45mm to allow for a double trimmer..doh.
As luck(?!?) would have it I had put it in the wrong location anyway so it needed to be removed & the short rafters cut back.

Onto cutting the sarking to create the opening:


View from the window:



First task was to install a support beam which span the floor joists to either side of the opening. I used a 95x75mm C16 timber for this.

We then moved onto cutting the central support member. This is fixed to the support timber at bottom & the double trimmer at the top.



Next up was jointing the top & bottom frames together, followed by fitting the relevant support brackets to allow the frames to sit on the roof. These were then lifted into position:



We got to this stage on Sat at 10:15pm & called it a night!

I managed to spend a few hours(4!!) the next day; plumbing, levelling, squaring, adjusting, screwing. The frames need to be perfect for the 4 frames to operate!

After this it was a case of fitting the bottom sashes and adjusting the frames some more! Left pane is a fixed panel & the right is an opening:



My dad dropped in at night to give me a hand lifting the top sashes in....oh boy these are heavy! Tripled glazed!



This is before any external flashings are installed :



The lower section of roof will be removed when I am ready to do the terrace deck weatherproofing which is the next task as I need this completed to allow all the flashings to be installed!


Overall everything is working as it should & we are pleased with the result. The instructions weren't great & some parts needed slight adjustment but nothing we couldn't overcome!

[getthewheelsinline]

Hi Guys!

Haven’t update the tread in a while – I have been making steady progress in my free time which is limited!

A couple of my mates have been round a few Saturdays to start putting the rigid foil insulation in the walls (100mm thk) and rafters (125mm thk):





Have now completed the flooring on the first floor. 22mm chipboard glued & screwed.



As I plan to install polypipe underflooring in the ensuite area upstairs, I did not want to create a build-up with the floor.
I recessed 18mm plywood between the joists where the ensuite is proposed. I then overlaid 6mm plywood.





Polypipe 18mm cement board which comes pre-grooved will be laid to accept the 12mm dia UFH pipe. This can then be tiled directly ontop of.

I then sourced a new old stock staircase on gumtree to utilise during the build. We plan to have an OAK staircase built once we are nearer the end of the project.





One of my mates then ground the concrete oversite on the ground floor with my scabbler I bought from gumtree – This was just to remove any of the high spots from concrete trowelling.
This will ensure the 125mm thk foil insulation on the floor is fully supported.



I dwanged out the terrace floor to reinforce this and also created a fall on the floor ready for installing the plywood deck & EPDM.



We waited for the weather to pick up until we started back slating around the velux. We will need to tie the slating into the upper section we did last year before the flat roof contractor arrived.





Awaiting on 6 side soaker flashings from Velux - due 12th April.

This gives an idea of how the velux terrace will look – although the top window will hinge from the top giving more head height as opposed to centre hung as it is shown.





Proposed build up of terrace deck as follows:
18mm plywood / IKO bitumen primer / IKO self adhesive Vapour Control Layer / Contact adhesive / Kingspan TR27 tissue backed insulation (2 layers of 25mm) / contact adhesive / Firestone EPDM / Walkway pads
The EPDM will run up the revels creating a fully weather tight seal….hopefully!! Never done EPDM roofing before – so will see how I get on!

That's all folks!

[steviejoiner74]

It's looking fantastic mate! Not be long before you are ready for plasterboard!

[jmower2007]

great thread have loved following this so far . its looking really good

[getthewheelsinline]

Hi guys!

Hoped you enjoyed the bank holiday weekend! Managed a couple of days on the house - continued slating & then moved onto the EPDM terrace floor.... which didn't exactly go to plan!

Valley to ridge slating was completed along with a few courses on the side extension roof. Should get this side completed on Saturday which will mean the full rear elevation is done & only 2 sides of the side extension to complete!



Onto the terrace floor, first I primed the plywood base with IKO bitumen primer before applying IKO self adhesive bitumen vapour control layer:



I removed the bottom Velux sashes to ease installation of the floor build up:



I then cut the Kingspan TR27, 25mm thk, tissue backed insulation to size. Needed 3No 1200x600mm boards.



I applied IKO PU adhesive to the VCL in lines & then placed the TR27 boards ontop.



While this set, I rolled out the FIRESTONE Heavy Duty EPDM membrane (1.52mm thk), to relax for 1hr which helped remove any wrinkles from transportation / storage.

I then positioned this and trimmed roughly to shape and rolled half it back.

I then applied Firestone bonding adhesive BA-2012 using 4.5" roller to both the tissue faced insulation & the back of the membrane.

Unfortunately, as I working alone the membrane slipped and adhesive got onto the front face of the membrane! Doh! Any ideas as to how to remove this?

I used a new 9" roller sleeve, small roller & penny roller to bond the membrane to the insulation. I then moved onto the side walls in the same manor.

Bubbles started to appear under the membrane...I just thought this must be trapped air and tried to remove them without success!

Confession time....

Reading online it would appear that I never left the adhesive long enough to flash off and the vapour from the adhesive created bubbles under the membrane! This is more pronounced on the floor.





I am gutted to be honest but had to rebuild the Velux and fitted all the flashings as it was getting late and there wasn't much I could do with the membrane.

I had already purchased walkway pads to install but unsure what to do now....I plan to see if the bubbles subside then I can work out best plan of action! I guess the thing is waterproof just not exactly usable as a terrace!

1. Strip the lot...not sure how easy this will be?!? How do you clean up the residual solvent, insulation, pu adhesive, etc
2. Puncture the large holes & apply formflash with quickprime plus. Then overlay with walkway pads - so shouldn't be seen.
3. Puncture all bubbles & relay new EPDM on top of old. Formflash around the perimeter base.
4. Any other tips? Tricks?

Help...:o(

[cotswold builders]

Contact adhesive is really hard on large areas, we normally use water based adhesive on all field ( base ) areas leaving about 50mm gap around edges, we we contact.
Do you have enough room under the door/window threshold to lay some osb 3 directly over the existing.
With using water based on osb, as the glue dries it pulls tight to the boards, hence no bubbles.

With contact, as you now know it needs to be flashed of, ( finger test ) or you will get bubbles, unfortunately they wont pull in tight.

You haven't done to bad, especially doing it on your own, and although its waterproof you will always know the bubbles are there, even after covering up.

We use firestone walk way pads for areas that size, I wouldn't cut the rubber, see if you can get enough room to fit some osb or even ply over the top.
If you can, let me know and I will tell you how to proceed.

We did just do one very similar a few weeks ago, only use contact on perimeters and dormer cheeks.

[getthewheelsinline]

Thanks CB - hoped you would reply as I knew you are an experienced EPDM installer! :)

As I was bonding to the tissue backed insulation the supplier advised that I needed to use contact adhesive on the full base & the back of the membrane.

Sadly no space under the door / window threshold flashing - just enough for the firestone walkway pads sadly!

The bubbles have subsided slightly so hoping they will continually to do so. I plan to fit the walkway pads which come with quickseam already bonded to the back in 3 strips so this will help to straddle the worst of the small bubbles I hope!

Any ideas on how to remove a small amount of the contact adhesive from the front face of the membrane?

I will review at the weekend and see what my best plan of attack is going to be!

[thescruff]

Cracking thread can't wait to see the finished project.