Suzuki Swift 1.5 GLX Mechanical Help

[Freeman1]

Hi,

I recently purchased a Suzuki Swift 1.5 GLX and have been having a few issues with it, luckily I have a snap-on diagnostic tool to hand though so hopefully will be able to provide you guys with a bit more information to help me diagnose my issue...

Whilst driving it home it would cut out randomly.. lights would appear on the dash, however when turning the ignition on and off again it would work. Leading on from this I also noticed the speedometer wouldn't reach above 40mph.

After scanning initially as I had the engine management light illuminated, the only code on was P0012 - Intake (A) camshaft position timing over-retarded. I checked the timing chain which seemed fine and wasnt slack, however I realised there was no oil in when I bought it, so filled that up... realised there was a leak from the camshaft seal, changed that and seemingly that issue is fixed..

However after taking it back out for a test drive, I'm still experiencing the engine cutting out, although the speedometer managed to reach 48mph! After scanning again a number of 'historic codes' appeared.. So I was wondering if anyone had any advice or could suggest where to go next...

B1017 - Power Source Voltage too Low
B1074 - Driver Forward Sensor Circuit Short to Power or Open

C1021 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit
C1026 - Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit
C1057 - ABS (ESP) Control Module Power Supply Circuit Failure

The 5 above codes are historic codes and not live, althought I'm going to take it for a test drive again tomorrow to see if anymore do flag up... Looking at the codes though do you think it'll more than likely relate to one thing? As for example it seems unlikely that both the Right and Left speed sensor would go at the same time..

Any thoughts?

Thanks - Jack

[Rorschach]

What's the battery like? Alternator too?

[Freeman1]

Initially I didn't even think about the battery as there didn't seem to be any initial power problems.

However after testing the car for a few days the battery started to die on me... wouldn't turn over... then after a jump start it seemed back up to strength and lasted another 2 days until it failed again and wouldn't start.

A couple people have suggested I may have loose connections which may be leading to low voltage... if thats the case could this cause the enginge to cut out mid driving?

Jack

[Rorschach]

With computer controlled cars it's amazing the effect a bad battery can have on the functionality of a car.

I had a bad battery in my car a couple of years ago, the car would start fine but warning lights would show up randomly, the car drove rough, the computer wasn't working properly and would reset itself randomly.
Changed the battery and the problems were solved instantly, no more trouble to this day.

[dewaltdisney]

Sounds like the alternator is giving up. I certainly am not an expert where electrics are concerned but apparently the alternator has a diode pack of three and one or two of these could be knackered resulting in the battery being drained as the power leaks to earth. Can you get the alternator checked?

DWD

[wine~o]

Deffo get the alternator checked before replacing the battery.

[Freeman1]

Assuming it was the alternator... could this link to why it would cut out whilst driving?

[wine~o]

Possible, The alternator (with the engine running) provides electrickery to all the cars electrical systems and recharges the battery...

Just as an aside Halfords are currently doing a "free" winter check which includes the battery, but not the alternator.

Of course the car cutting out may be a completely separate problem, what you have said about battery going flat certainly points to either alternator or battery or both being faulty.

[Rorschach]

I would suspect battery first, alternators tend to last a long time, and if faulty his battery would be flat all the time and the car basically wouldn't function as little to no power would be generated, no spark, no power for the ECM etc.

Batteries on the hand wear out much quicker and are prone to faults, poor manufacture and so on.

If possible certainly get both checked but I for the small cost of a new battery and the ease of fitting I would change it out.

[Bob225]

A over/under voltage will cause random codes the most common part to fail on the alternator is the rectifier and that will take out the battery

also check that all your grounds are good