fixing steel tube to wood

Einion · Post by **Einion** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 2:48 pm

Hi.
My present DIY project involves attaching a short section of stainless steel tube, at right angles, to a piece of wood.
The tube can vary in diameter and thickness but the one I use most is 10mm outside diameter and has a wall thickness of 0.5mm.
Til now I've been making two cuts in one end of the tube with a hacksaw and splaying out the cut sections.
From there I either drill two of the splays for screws or ensure that the screw heads overlap the splays when I screw them into the wood.
That worked for a few units but I may have to do this job once or twice a month so I'm looking for a better way of doing it. One possibility is to cut a thread in the ss tube.
Then I could fix a washer, with pre-cut holes for screws either directly to the tube or have it held in place with a nut or nuts. The other possibility is to weld the washer to the tube.

If I go with cutting a thread what's the required thread cutter size? Or is the wall too thin to take a thread? Is the welding option simple enough for a complete beginner?

I'd be very grateful for any of your thoughts and/or advice.

London mike 61 · Post by **London mike 61** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 3:44 pm

https://www.toolstation.com/backplate/p42337
Or a couple of these ?

https://www.toolstation.com/talon-nail-in-clip/p92608

Mike

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 3:55 pm

cant visualize it ??
9.5mm hole in the wood full or part length ??

Dave54 · Post by **Dave54** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 4:09 pm

You won't cut an M10 thread on it. That's roughly 0.9 mm deep. If thin wall tube does have a thread it's normally a very coarse thread rolled on by deforming the actual tube.

If it'll fit 10mm compression fittings, then what i have done is to use a 10mm to thread adapter like this
https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression- ... mm-x/62592
and then use a 1/4" BSP lock nut to mount it on a plate or large washer. Or you could possibly counterbore the wood to take the washer.
If you do this remember 1/4" BSP is roughly 13mm outside diameter.

Einion · Post by **Einion** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 4:58 pm

Thanks Mike. That backplate looks very close to being a solution. Possibly a bit too large, though. And theres some heat involved so plastic's out but a screw-in metal version of the talon may well work. Thanks.

@big-all Thanks for your response. This might help.

: heater well.jpg (86.71 KiB) Viewed 3664 times

Thanks Dave. Yea, I was beginning to suspect that the thread option was doubtful. I can use 1mm wall but it would still be cutting things a bit fine.
I'll have a good look at those compression fittings. It's a possible. Cheers mate.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 7:23 pm

so is the pipe fixed to just what looks like the base off an small oak bowl??
is the tube fixed at both ends assuming its a rail ?? :dunno:

Dave54 · Post by **Dave54** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 7:37 pm

big-all wrote: ↑Tue Dec 24, 2019 7:23 pm so is the pipe fixed to just what looks like the base off an small oak bowl??

I was just thinking that's a bit of oak B-A.
You might get away with tapping a BSP thread (for example) straight into it if it is OP.
If we knew more about what it was for, we might have some more ideas.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 8:20 pm

Dave54 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 24, 2019 7:37 pm
big-all wrote: ↑Tue Dec 24, 2019 7:23 pm so is the pipe fixed to just what looks like the base off an small oak bowl??
I was just thinking that's a bit of oak B-A.
You might get away with tapping a BSP thread (for example) straight into it if it is OP.
If we knew more about what it was for, we might have some more ideas.

i just thought a lovely bit off oak that if on display and important the black stain [tannin oak steel reacting]when it gets damp could be sole destroying especially working through to the face on the invisible screw point end

Einion · Post by **Einion** » Tue Dec 24, 2019 9:32 pm

Thanks for showing interest. Here's the background info.

It's a craft item. A handmade heater for aromatic oils. That ss tube contains a 20 ohm resistor and runs from a 12v power adapter. The resistor gives off just the right amount of heat to evaporate the oil at an optimum rate.
The usual way of doing this is by having the oil heated with a candle. This however, produces far too much heat and the candle itself gives off unwanted by-products. A niche interest perhaps but such a great little DIY project.
If I can make them well enough I migh be able to start selling a few but at present it's just for family and friends. The first picture shows a unit made from (yes) oak handrail but I'm now making them from cured local greenwood.
Here's one made from European walnut with an earthenware bowl on top and a seasonally appropriate frankincense oil.

: Oil heater.jpg (95.46 KiB) Viewed 3641 times

As you can probably imagine, the sort of people who might want one of these are concerned about their personal environment and all components need to be natural and safe so I need to bear that in mind when considering build options

@big-all Actually, I made one of these from oak handrail and painted it with ebonising fluid. It's made from wire wool and cider vinegar. It activates on contact with tannin and turns the wood black.
I could post a picture ?