Get lights working independently
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Get lights working independently
Hi Guys,
I have a Living room and dining room that’s knocked into one.
Now since I’ve moved in the two lights have been operated by one double gang switch. I can either have both lights off or one on at a time.
I would like them to work independently ie both on, both off or just one on and the other off.
I’ll attach a pic of how it’s wired. (It’s a mock up on a spare)
Please could someone help me ?
I have a Living room and dining room that’s knocked into one.
Now since I’ve moved in the two lights have been operated by one double gang switch. I can either have both lights off or one on at a time.
I would like them to work independently ie both on, both off or just one on and the other off.
I’ll attach a pic of how it’s wired. (It’s a mock up on a spare)
Please could someone help me ?
- Someone-Else
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Get lights working independently
It depends how the other end is wired, but normally there is no need for the small (Blue) link wire.
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Get lights working independently
There is no definitive way of wiring lights, so it will have to be a case of swap and see.
The reason I said remove the link is because you already have two wires for each switch (That is "normal")
If you had 3 wires, two switches and two lights then the link would be required, but it would be at the other end (Bearing in mind you would only have one brown wire)
As I said, without a multi meter and knowing how to use it this is going to take some time.
Can you mark each of the "long" wires e.g.
One band
Two bands
Three bands
No bands
Leave out the link and take a picture, then say how many lights are working.
You also said this is a "mock up" can make 100% sure the mock up is the same as the actual switch, and also take a picture of the working switch connections.
Oh, just to add, have you had any alterations done (apart from taking a wall down)
The reason I said remove the link is because you already have two wires for each switch (That is "normal")
If you had 3 wires, two switches and two lights then the link would be required, but it would be at the other end (Bearing in mind you would only have one brown wire)
As I said, without a multi meter and knowing how to use it this is going to take some time.
Can you mark each of the "long" wires e.g.
One band
Two bands
Three bands
No bands
Leave out the link and take a picture, then say how many lights are working.
You also said this is a "mock up" can make 100% sure the mock up is the same as the actual switch, and also take a picture of the working switch connections.
Oh, just to add, have you had any alterations done (apart from taking a wall down)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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Get lights working independently
Yep I’m sure the mock up is correct someone-else.
There’s been no other modifications that I know apart from the knocking through of the rooms.
Here is a picture of the switch with the wires in
I’ve had to replace the back box as one of the screw points was knackered. Here is a pic of the new back box and the wires banded like you asked for mate. Thanks for the help
There’s been no other modifications that I know apart from the knocking through of the rooms.
Here is a picture of the switch with the wires in
I’ve had to replace the back box as one of the screw points was knackered. Here is a pic of the new back box and the wires banded like you asked for mate. Thanks for the help
- Someone-Else
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Get lights working independently
Its that short link that really bothers me.
Do you have a spare wago connector, or a single (or more) connector block?
Assuming you have
Each time switch the mains off before you do anything
Connect 1 to 2
connect 3 to 0
Connect 3 to 3
connect 3 to 1
Do each of the above one at a time, what happens?
Do you have a spare wago connector, or a single (or more) connector block?
Assuming you have
Each time switch the mains off before you do anything
Connect 1 to 2
connect 3 to 0
Connect 3 to 3
connect 3 to 1
Do each of the above one at a time, what happens?
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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Get lights working independently
Just a small observation but the link wire is in the wrong place. With the link wire where it is then you might as well just shove all the cables into one piece of strip connector.someone-else wrote: ↑Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:43 pm It depends how the other end is wired, but normally there is no need for the small (Blue) link wire.
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Get lights working independently
Guys, thanks, but yes I know the link wire is in the "wrong place" that is what I don't understand. If it uses all 4 wires there is no need for a link wire at all.
I am trying to figure out remotely what wire does what.
I am trying to figure out remotely what wire does what.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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Get lights working independently
Marvel, it will not do any harm to do as OnlyMe suggests.
Using the below information
1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off
1 must be for the front room
3 must be for the back room
2 is live
0 is "spare"
Lights work when 2 is involved, so 2 must be live
When 2 connected to 3 back room works, so 3 must be back room
When 2 is connected to 1 front room works, so 1 must be front room
Using the below information
1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off
1 must be for the front room
3 must be for the back room
2 is live
0 is "spare"
Lights work when 2 is involved, so 2 must be live
When 2 connected to 3 back room works, so 3 must be back room
When 2 is connected to 1 front room works, so 1 must be front room
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
- Someone-Else
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Get lights working independently
Marvel, put wire 2 into common. (Doesn't matter which one)
Put wire 1 in "1 way" terminal of left switch
Put wire 3 in "1 way" terminal of right switch
Put a new link wire between each common (Leaving wire 2 where it is)
Put a single choc bloc (not just tape) on wire 0 (or take the blue wire out from the wago)
Marvel, next time you do anything like this, mark the cables (as you did earlier) and take a picture, check the picture is in focus, then do what you want to do.
The idea of marking the wires is to make it easier to see which one goes where, or as I was doing asking for them to be connected in a specific order, to figure out what does what.
Put wire 1 in "1 way" terminal of left switch
Put wire 3 in "1 way" terminal of right switch
Put a new link wire between each common (Leaving wire 2 where it is)
Put a single choc bloc (not just tape) on wire 0 (or take the blue wire out from the wago)
Marvel, next time you do anything like this, mark the cables (as you did earlier) and take a picture, check the picture is in focus, then do what you want to do.
The idea of marking the wires is to make it easier to see which one goes where, or as I was doing asking for them to be connected in a specific order, to figure out what does what.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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Get lights working independently
Thanks for correcting me and getting cable 3 into the one way positionsomeone-else wrote: ↑Sun Feb 02, 2020 3:14 pm Marvel, it will not do any harm to do as OnlyMe suggests.
Using the below information
1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off
1 must be for the front room
3 must be for the back room
2 is live
0 is "spare"
Lights work when 2 is involved, so 2 must be live
When 2 connected to 3 back room works, so 3 must be back room
When 2 is connected to 1 front room works, so 1 must be front room
I do have a theory why the lights are wired like this. I think one of the twin and earths was/is a strapper that takes it's permanent live from cable 2 (albeit incorrectly wired).