Get lights working independently

All electrical lighting questions in here please. Including outside lighting and light switch / dimmer questions.

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Marvel
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Get lights working independently

Post by Marvel »

Hi Guys,

I have a Living room and dining room that’s knocked into one.

Now since I’ve moved in the two lights have been operated by one double gang switch. I can either have both lights off or one on at a time.

I would like them to work independently ie both on, both off or just one on and the other off.

I’ll attach a pic of how it’s wired. (It’s a mock up on a spare)
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8434E02B-F2C9-45EA-AF9C-F77B309D7674.jpeg (292.37 KiB) Viewed 2159 times
Please could someone help me ?
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Someone-Else
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Post by Someone-Else »

It depends how the other end is wired, but normally there is no need for the small (Blue) link wire.
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Post by Marvel »

Thanks for the reply someone-else.

I’ve removed the link wire and now I have one light working and the other does nothing.
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Post by Someone-Else »

There is no definitive way of wiring lights, so it will have to be a case of swap and see.
The reason I said remove the link is because you already have two wires for each switch (That is "normal")
If you had 3 wires, two switches and two lights then the link would be required, but it would be at the other end (Bearing in mind you would only have one brown wire)

As I said, without a multi meter and knowing how to use it this is going to take some time.

Can you mark each of the "long" wires e.g.

One band
Two bands
Three bands
No bands

Leave out the link and take a picture, then say how many lights are working.

You also said this is a "mock up" can make 100% sure the mock up is the same as the actual switch, and also take a picture of the working switch connections.

Oh, just to add, have you had any alterations done (apart from taking a wall down)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
Marvel
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Post by Marvel »

Yep I’m sure the mock up is correct someone-else.

There’s been no other modifications that I know apart from the knocking through of the rooms.

Here is a picture of the switch with the wires in
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I’ve had to replace the back box as one of the screw points was knackered. Here is a pic of the new back box and the wires banded like you asked for mate.
344B8F48-6E17-4F7E-901B-71CE001CADED.png
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Thanks for the help
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Someone-Else
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Post by Someone-Else »

Its that short link that really bothers me.

Do you have a spare wago connector, or a single (or more) connector block?

Assuming you have
Each time switch the mains off before you do anything

Connect 1 to 2

connect 3 to 0

Connect 3 to 3

connect 3 to 1

Do each of the above one at a time, what happens?
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
Marvel
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Post by Marvel »

Did that pal and the results are:

1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off
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Post by OnlyMe »

someone-else wrote: Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:43 pm It depends how the other end is wired, but normally there is no need for the small (Blue) link wire.
Just a small observation but the link wire is in the wrong place. With the link wire where it is then you might as well just shove all the cables into one piece of strip connector.
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Post by Marvel »

I’m thinking the link wire needs to bridge the com terminals.

Does that seem correct ?
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Post by OnlyMe »

Marvel wrote: Sun Feb 02, 2020 2:34 pm Did that pal and the results are:

1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off
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Isolate 0
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Someone-Else
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Post by Someone-Else »

Guys, thanks, but yes I know the link wire is in the "wrong place" that is what I don't understand. If it uses all 4 wires there is no need for a link wire at all.

I am trying to figure out remotely what wire does what.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
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Someone-Else
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Post by Someone-Else »

Marvel, it will not do any harm to do as OnlyMe suggests.

Using the below information

1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off

1 must be for the front room
3 must be for the back room
2 is live
0 is "spare"

Lights work when 2 is involved, so 2 must be live
When 2 connected to 3 back room works, so 3 must be back room
When 2 is connected to 1 front room works, so 1 must be front room
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
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Someone-Else
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Post by Someone-Else »

Marvel, put wire 2 into common. (Doesn't matter which one)

Put wire 1 in "1 way" terminal of left switch

Put wire 3 in "1 way" terminal of right switch

Put a new link wire between each common (Leaving wire 2 where it is)

Put a single choc bloc (not just tape) on wire 0 (or take the blue wire out from the wago)

Marvel, next time you do anything like this, mark the cables (as you did earlier) and take a picture, check the picture is in focus, then do what you want to do.

The idea of marking the wires is to make it easier to see which one goes where, or as I was doing asking for them to be connected in a specific order, to figure out what does what.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
Marvel
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Post by Marvel »

Yep I took the blue wire out of the wago to isolate 0.

Thanks for the help guys, I’m well happy it’s working just how I want it. :thumbleft: :thumbright: :cheers:
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Post by OnlyMe »

someone-else wrote: Sun Feb 02, 2020 3:14 pm Marvel, it will not do any harm to do as OnlyMe suggests.

Using the below information

1 to 2 = front room on
3 to 0 = both off
3 to 2 = back room on
3 to 1 = both off

1 must be for the front room
3 must be for the back room
2 is live
0 is "spare"

Lights work when 2 is involved, so 2 must be live
When 2 connected to 3 back room works, so 3 must be back room
When 2 is connected to 1 front room works, so 1 must be front room
Thanks for correcting me and getting cable 3 into the one way position :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

I do have a theory why the lights are wired like this. I think one of the twin and earths was/is a strapper that takes it's permanent live from cable 2 (albeit incorrectly wired).
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