squeaky floorboards
Moderator: Moderators
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:34 am
- Location: Buckinghamshire
- Has thanked: 21 times
- Been thanked: 5 times
squeaky floorboards
im sure this may have been asked before, but please help, my floorboards on my landing are really squeaky so should i replace them as they dont seem loose?? and if so do i have to replace with the same type of floorboards (small thin ones like tongue/groove) or can i put the big floorboards i put down in my extension-the type you get from wickes/B&Q-??? also what causes the squeaking as i dont want to rip it up put new down and find the squeak still there.
Its a lot to ask but never too much for you guys.
Thanks in advance
Its a lot to ask but never too much for you guys.
Thanks in advance
- Teabag
- Senior Member
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:46 pm
- Location: Bedfordshire
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 0
from memory i think its chalk powder fixes this... cant recall for sure... but its applied over the join between boards and falls between them, the rubbing causing the squeek is reduced or stopped totally.
im sure someone with the old readers digest home improvments books will confirm.... its basically a dry lubricant.
im sure someone with the old readers digest home improvments books will confirm.... its basically a dry lubricant.
If you can't convince'm with arguments,
dazzle'm with bullshit
dazzle'm with bullshit
- Teabag
- Senior Member
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:46 pm
- Location: Bedfordshire
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 0
again from memory I thought floor boards were approx 20mm thick, (3/4") either with or without tounge and groove.
havnt laid flooring for ages lol, you sure you were not looking at cladding? by your description (small thin ones like tongue/groove).
regards type, as long as they are cramped up while being laid I wouldnt have thought there much difference as in whats best... only when over a cavity floor like in older houses tounge and groove would stop more draughts, and you can also use the secret nailing technique making for a nicer finish.
others who actually work in the trade may have more acurate info....
havnt laid flooring for ages lol, you sure you were not looking at cladding? by your description (small thin ones like tongue/groove).
regards type, as long as they are cramped up while being laid I wouldnt have thought there much difference as in whats best... only when over a cavity floor like in older houses tounge and groove would stop more draughts, and you can also use the secret nailing technique making for a nicer finish.
others who actually work in the trade may have more acurate info....
If you can't convince'm with arguments,
dazzle'm with bullshit
dazzle'm with bullshit
-
- Newly registered Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:13 am
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 0
Yeah, talcum or chalk are short term fixes but Im not sure how long they will stop the squeaking?
What you want to do is take teh carpets up, use a punch to undersink and nailheads that are visible...and then ID the main problem areas and screw the floorboards down to the joists if they are not already (very unlikely!)
What you want to do is take teh carpets up, use a punch to undersink and nailheads that are visible...and then ID the main problem areas and screw the floorboards down to the joists if they are not already (very unlikely!)
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:34 am
- Location: Buckinghamshire
- Has thanked: 21 times
- Been thanked: 5 times
darkhorse
thanks for that, i need to take up the floorboards anyway for my electrics(another post) so will replace them, but like i said at the start should i use tongue groove or the complete floorboard type you can buy from wickes etc, what would you do and whats easier as i have looked at how to lay boards on here and the floorboard tensioner/clamp is expensive to buy???/
-
- Newly registered Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:13 am
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 0
Re: darkhorse
Tongue and groove every day of the week for mebgatty68 wrote:thanks for that, i need to take up the floorboards anyway for my electrics(another post) so will replace them, but like i said at the start should i use tongue groove or the complete floorboard type you can buy from wickes etc, what would you do and whats easier as i have looked at how to lay boards on here and the floorboard tensioner/clamp is expensive to buy???/
Chipboard will drive you mad with the sqeaking....
T & G if laid properly, in my humble opinion give the best result with a quiet very tough floor.
18 or 22mm chipboard is easy to lay but WILL squeak after a while I have found!
You dont need a tensioner as far as Im aware! (at least I never have)
See here
http://www.andrews-timber.co.uk/HowtoFl ... oring.html
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:34 am
- Location: Buckinghamshire
- Has thanked: 21 times
- Been thanked: 5 times
thanks
Thanks darkhorse T&G it is then, i had heard an old wives tale that putting a rubber 'O' ring under each board will stop squeaking?? not sure if it's a wind up tho.
And welcome to the site
And welcome to the site
- Teabag
- Senior Member
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:46 pm
- Location: Bedfordshire
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 0
you dont need to spend out on a flooring cramp, reason a flooring cramp is used is due to shrinkage, as the timber acclimatises to heating in the house, many people are not in the position to leave the timber in the house to acclimatise, just make a pair of folding wedges... use a off cutt piece of flooring push to the stuff your installing (wedges push against this and it wont damage the tounge and groove), then put wedges down points facing each other.
screw another bit of timber to the joist next to the wedges... hit the wedges together this forces the flooring tight. against the timber you screwed to the joist. then fix the flooring to joist... remove wedges and screwed timber.
you can use more than one set at a time for long runs... way cheaper than joist cramps...
its how I was taught...
hope what ive tried to explain is easily understood.
screw another bit of timber to the joist next to the wedges... hit the wedges together this forces the flooring tight. against the timber you screwed to the joist. then fix the flooring to joist... remove wedges and screwed timber.
you can use more than one set at a time for long runs... way cheaper than joist cramps...
its how I was taught...
hope what ive tried to explain is easily understood.
If you can't convince'm with arguments,
dazzle'm with bullshit
dazzle'm with bullshit
- Hoovie
- Borders Bodger
- Posts: 8168
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:06 pm
- Location: Scottish Borders & East Devon
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 4 times
Before making up wedges, sprinkling talc , thinking about clamps, etc, would the first thing to do not be to simply walk arounf to identifiy the boards that makes a squeak and put in a screw to tighten it against the joist (as the nail has probably lost its grip)
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the self-help section?"
She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.