Hello
Not my favourite but we have what we have and I want to make it look a bit better.
We've got these ( horrible) concrete posts for Fence Panels in the garden. The panels are crap and they are blowing to bits in the wind, it's the second year they've been destroyed and I'm getting nagged to replace them with the same but I would like to do something better.
I like the staggered slats style (I think they survive the winds better).
The posts are at 6 foot spacing and are 5 foot high.
I know that injected timber would be best but Pen's happy (and she likes playing in the garden) to paint them every year (I just need to take them out ). So what would you recommend? Do you have the slat sizes I should use, is half width overlap correct and what size of cross member for that 6" span and allowing for the slot to slide them in? Oh and when could you come and fit them
Basic guide would be really useful I'll then apply that to the sizes I have.
Garden Fence Panels
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- Jaeger_S2k
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the style fencing you discribe is known as "aris rail fencing", you could do what my neighbour has done, the concrete posts were the channel type just buy the aris rails (triangler lengthed timbers) and notch the ends to suit a tight fit in the channel and between posts... make sure they are level. and nail the feather board on. or which ever type it is you prefer to use.
if you put kickboard at the bottom and dig it in so thats level, it will make your job much easier when it comes to keeping the feather boards same height.
the advantge with the cheaper fence pannels are if they get too much strain they break up, allowing high winds to pass, in the strongest hit section. so cheap repair
aris rail is only as sturdy as all the posts installed, ifthe wind is strong enough chances are it would take the lot down if its on a long run.
saw this where i used to live the gardens were 140ft long exposed to wind full on... people with cheaper pannels had cheaper repair bills only 1 or 2 pannels destroyed others with aris rail it took lots of posts over. soft ground and shallow posts was the problem there....
think about what your area is like before you comit to change.
if you put kickboard at the bottom and dig it in so thats level, it will make your job much easier when it comes to keeping the feather boards same height.
the advantge with the cheaper fence pannels are if they get too much strain they break up, allowing high winds to pass, in the strongest hit section. so cheap repair
aris rail is only as sturdy as all the posts installed, ifthe wind is strong enough chances are it would take the lot down if its on a long run.
saw this where i used to live the gardens were 140ft long exposed to wind full on... people with cheaper pannels had cheaper repair bills only 1 or 2 pannels destroyed others with aris rail it took lots of posts over. soft ground and shallow posts was the problem there....
think about what your area is like before you comit to change.
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- Jaeger_S2k
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There is another post on here that has described it as "Hit & Miss" fencing - I think the thread was started by Stevelusky?Jaeger_S2k wrote:I think my description was incorrect I was thinking of 'Stockade' style (I think) where there's a board on front then a board at the back.
Each board overlaps to give privacy but the wind can pass through.
Gives privacy, lets the wind through and both sides of the fence look the same (so no 'wrong' side for neighbours to moan about)
Hit and Miss fencing is best described as a compromise between palisade fencing and close board fencing. Palisade fencing will allow some visibility and plenty of air, close board fencing will allow no visibility and no air. Hit and miss fencing will allow minimal visibility only from certain angles and will allow air to pass through. Ideal in situations where screening is important but air circulation must be maintained.
Hit and Miss Fencing Construction - posts can be either timber, concrete or metal and are set in concrete. Heights are usually up to 2m. Two or three timber rails are recessed or bolted to posts. Timber pales are then nailed to the rails in a palisade fashion, but on both sides. Depending on the situation and personal preference depends on how far apart the pales are spaced, and indeed how wide the pales are.
info from: http://www.smith-fencing.co.uk/timberh&m.html
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