Best way to polish drill holes in perspex/acrylic
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Best way to polish drill holes in perspex/acrylic
What is the best way to polish drill holes in perspex?
It might sound like a weird thing to worry about, but I'm mounting 5mm LED's into these holes and I'd like to polish them up a little to improve the optical clarity.
Does anyone have ideas of the best way to do this? I've considered buying a dremel and some polishing brush attachments, but I'm not certain which of the available ones (if any) would be appropriate to use with perspex.
Cheers,
Barry.
It might sound like a weird thing to worry about, but I'm mounting 5mm LED's into these holes and I'd like to polish them up a little to improve the optical clarity.
Does anyone have ideas of the best way to do this? I've considered buying a dremel and some polishing brush attachments, but I'm not certain which of the available ones (if any) would be appropriate to use with perspex.
Cheers,
Barry.
- Teabag
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hi barry,
at work they polish acrylic all the time using paint t cut type products for cars, I have posted the name in another post cant recall the name atm...
a dremil type drill would be fine, when I was a tool maker we used to cut a slot in the end of a bar to slide emery cloth in to polish a drilled/bored hole, you could do the same with cloth and T cut type product rotating in the dremil type drill, put in the hole to polish it. if you cant find a ready made polishing attachment to use.
at work they polish acrylic all the time using paint t cut type products for cars, I have posted the name in another post cant recall the name atm...
a dremil type drill would be fine, when I was a tool maker we used to cut a slot in the end of a bar to slide emery cloth in to polish a drilled/bored hole, you could do the same with cloth and T cut type product rotating in the dremil type drill, put in the hole to polish it. if you cant find a ready made polishing attachment to use.
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Thanks for the suggestions.
I wasn't too worried about the sides of the drill holes, more so the end where the light would be shining through. The holes weren't drilled all the way through since a glass bowl containing water and decorative stones will be placed on top once the thing is finished.
I got the dremel along with some polishing attachments. I used the brass bristle one, followed by the nylon bristle one with some of the polishing compound. Its not come out perfect, but its a heck of a lot better before.
I'll experiment a little more and see if I can improve it.
Cheers,
Barry.
I wasn't too worried about the sides of the drill holes, more so the end where the light would be shining through. The holes weren't drilled all the way through since a glass bowl containing water and decorative stones will be placed on top once the thing is finished.
I got the dremel along with some polishing attachments. I used the brass bristle one, followed by the nylon bristle one with some of the polishing compound. Its not come out perfect, but its a heck of a lot better before.
I'll experiment a little more and see if I can improve it.
Cheers,
Barry.
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- Cannyfixit
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I have a perspex screen on my visor and had some very fine scratches on it I found Meguiars PlastX worked a treat,
http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Stor ... ductId=320
http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Stor ... ductId=320
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- ultimatehandyman
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If you could heat the holes to the correct temperature it would give a polish effect.
It's very difficult to do without damaging the perspex though.
This is how the professionals do it-
<embed src="http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/flvplayer.swf" quality="high" width="450" height="367" name="VideoPlayer" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" flashvars="file=http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/uploads ... r=0xFFFFFF" wmode="transparent" border="0"></embed>
It's very difficult to do without damaging the perspex though.
This is how the professionals do it-
<embed src="http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/flvplayer.swf" quality="high" width="450" height="367" name="VideoPlayer" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" flashvars="file=http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/uploads ... r=0xFFFFFF" wmode="transparent" border="0"></embed>
- Cannyfixit
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That interesting might have a play when i get 5 minutes
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Brasso and the posh one Stoday uses does this well for visors mobile phone screens etc.Cannyfixit wrote:I have a perspex screen on my visor and had some very fine scratches on it I found Meguiars PlastX worked a treat,
http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Stor ... ductId=320
Jaeger.
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The best way by far is to flame polish it as UHM says........but it is actually much easier than you might think, particularly if you are using cheaper extruded acrylic - cast acrylics are not so easy.
I flame polish using a torch - basically a plumbers torch.
Practice first on an off-cut
Form the torch flame to a point - quite a hot flame, but not "roaring". Approach the acrylic with it and, keeping the flame moving. Its a bit like oxy-acetylene welding in so much as you apply the flame at one point, fan away from it so as to not overheat it and then you fan back towards that same area. It is a very simple process and just needs a bit of practice on off-cuts. You will very quickly get the hang of it and know the heat, distance from the acrylic, the speed of movement etc
The effect is to leave a "glass like" finish - it is ideal for edges, drill holes etc and can help with scratches.
As stated, this works brilliantly on extruded acrylic. For cast acrylic it can help but is not anywhere near as effective - perhaps mechanical polishing is better for that.
Link below is for torch i have from b&q
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?a ... earch=true
I flame polish using a torch - basically a plumbers torch.
Practice first on an off-cut
Form the torch flame to a point - quite a hot flame, but not "roaring". Approach the acrylic with it and, keeping the flame moving. Its a bit like oxy-acetylene welding in so much as you apply the flame at one point, fan away from it so as to not overheat it and then you fan back towards that same area. It is a very simple process and just needs a bit of practice on off-cuts. You will very quickly get the hang of it and know the heat, distance from the acrylic, the speed of movement etc
The effect is to leave a "glass like" finish - it is ideal for edges, drill holes etc and can help with scratches.
As stated, this works brilliantly on extruded acrylic. For cast acrylic it can help but is not anywhere near as effective - perhaps mechanical polishing is better for that.
Link below is for torch i have from b&q
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?a ... earch=true