Newbie kitchen install

PaulP · Post by **PaulP** » Sat Sep 26, 2020 8:35 pm

Hi
First Thanks for this forum, I have been reading through and already realised I have more questions than I thought I did, I was just going to ask what sort of router to buy, I currently have a very small Bosch 500w and a 900w Dewalt 615 but I need to install a new kitchen for my daughter with a 400mm oak work top, a Belfast sink and an inset hob, the kitchen is just a standard L shape so one join and the sink in one length and the hob in the other.
I thought I needed to do a Masons mitre for the join but I understand that this is not the case and I just butt one against the other using 3 bolts and some biscuits but no glue anywhere is this correct?, I just imagined that the front edge of the worktop would have a very small chamfer which would show up on a butt joint?
For the Belfast sink I see that jigs are recomended, can I not use some sort of hole saw for the 2 internal comers, rough out the straight cuts with a jigsaw or circular saw and then trim with a router run against a straight edge ??
For the drip channel do I need what appears to be a relatively expensive special domed cutter or just use a small straight or even a V cutter that I already have ?
Can I use the above process for the hole I need for the hob?
Anything else I need to be aware of ???
And finally do I need a bigger 1/2 inch router?, if so what would be suitable, I will probably use it now and again but certainly not frequently, the Trend T7 looks to be good value, although I don’t mind used equipment so maybe a Dewalt 625??, if I do need a bigger one how important/ useful is a side fence, I see used ones often don’t have them.
Sorry for so many questions but I haven’t done a solid worktop before and I’m not professional but need to help out my daughter in her first house and don’t want to mess it up
Thanks
Paul

stevei · Post by **stevei** » Sun Sep 27, 2020 5:47 am

Oak worktops usually arrive unfinished with square corners. They should already be sanded smooth but might need a gentle going over. Then I would give them a couple of coats of whatever you choose to seal them with. I use Danish Oil on our worktops. It's easy to use and looks good but needs reapplying regularly. When water stops beading on the surface is a good indicator that you should have reapplied the oil last week. As the edges are square you don't need a mitre, just butt join as you said. I would strongly suggest that you forget the Belfast sink and go for an inset sink with drainer. Using the oak as a drainer is virtually impossible to get right without access to a machine shop and you will struggle to keep the wood stain free, especially on the edges. You will need a router for the cut outs for the bolts. What you have will do, just take your time and don't cut too much in one go. As for cutting the worktops to fit, a track saw will be more use than a heavy duty router. I have both and very rarely use the 1/2 inch router but use the track saw quite a lot. It came into it's own again last week. lifting floor boards for some new wiring. It also makes fitting doors a doddle.

fin · Post by **fin** » Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:24 pm

ive got a belfast sink jig which is decent for when i need it. ive also got a drainer groove jig. again ive used it few times now.

aye ya right on butt joint for the worktop. the worktop needs to expand and contract across the width of it so if its trapped by a masin mitre thats no good at all.

danish oil is a good finish. needs applyed all round usually reccomended 2-3 coats underside and back and then more coats on the top and front edge

they really need a good sand up though as theyre not the best finished as they come. youll need a fair amount of sanding discs and a decent sanding machine. ive got a couple of festool sanders for worktops etc. my sand paper discs range from p60 to p220 but youd prob not need p60 so maybe start at p80 and work up to p220

for the drip groove on the belfast sink i use just a small whatever size cutter is reccomended. it wasnt a special one or nowt like that. i had to go to axminster tools to pick it up but theres one of those local ish to me in north shields.

youd deffo need a decent half inch router. there is a trend machine thats exactly the same as the dewalt dw625 which is a bit cheaper. the dewalt is a decent machine. my own router is a makita which is a very good machine. think the trend machine is the t11

for cutting the oak worktops i deffffffffinately reccomend using a track saw. you will need a low tooth count blade for cutting them to length though not the 48 t blade they usually come with.

PaulP · Post by **PaulP** » Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:56 pm

Thanks for the advice, what’s the difference between using a track saw, something I don’t have as against a circular saw against a straight edge ??

stevei · Post by **stevei** » Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:08 am

Track saws follow the track. Circular saw against a straight edge can wander away from the edge. Track saws are much more versatile for kitchen fitting. You can use a track saw without the track.

PaulP · Post by **PaulP** » Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:48 am

Ok, not being familiar with a track saw, but not against buying one, what else can I do with it ?

fin · Post by **fin** » Tue Sep 29, 2020 6:41 pm

ive got a festool ts55 track saw, ive owned it about 6 or 7 years now.

before i had that i used a hitachi circular saw. i litterally dont think its seen the light of day more than a couple of times since i got the track saw. having said that ive also got a dewalt battery circular saw so i use that if i need a circular saw on the odd occasions.

track saws basically almost anything youd use a circular saw for. except more acurate. straight cuts. often they are used for breaking down sheet materials into the sizes needed. sink cut outs, hob cut outs. cutting worktops or end panels to size. cutting doors to size, often i put a leading edge on doors i fit so they dont get hinge bound. set the track saw to a few degrees whatever suits really and run it down the door. they are a game changer really.

screwfix do an erbauer track saw which is decent like

PaulP · Post by **PaulP** » Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:43 pm

So if I were to use one for cutting out the majority of a sink hole for instance how do you join up the corners ?

fin · Post by **fin** » Wed Sep 30, 2020 1:11 pm

jig saw. but since youd be routering it out id just jigsaw out the waste and then use the router.

PaulP · Post by **PaulP** » Wed Sep 30, 2020 1:27 pm

Hi Fin, so can I not just use a router against a straight edge rather than a jig?, maybe create the internal corners with a hole saw or Forster bit first ??

stevei · Post by **stevei** » Wed Sep 30, 2020 2:33 pm

From your first post, I assumed you wanted to use 40mm oak tops. If you have tried to router 40mm oak you would see that cutting is much easier. You can, as Fin said, use a router to tidy up or to slightly enlarge the cutout, but to cut clean edges for a joint or for the ends of the tops there is nothing that will do the job better than a track saw.

PaulP · Post by **PaulP** » Wed Sep 30, 2020 3:48 pm

Ok, that’s why I’m asking the questions, because I haven’t done this before, so want to do a good job and always interested to buy new tools as long as I can find a use for them, so maybe a track saw and a 1/2 router will be useful?,
Does anyone have a view on the trend T7EK router , they can be had for about £120 new ???