Measuring and fitting an exterior wooden door and frame

darkhorse · Post by **darkhorse** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:38 am

ok guys, Ive got to fit a new wooden door and frame for a friend to his old cottage and Im just wanting to get a few ideas and tips before I order the frame and door.

now Ive fitted quite a few UPVC doors and windows and they are pretty easy once youve learnt the tricks.
Ive fitted internal doors and casings without problems but this is the first external..(and it costs £600+ in custom oak!)

Current measurements (the smallest measurement listed here) of the brickwork opening are :

1820mm High
865mm wide

Now, bearing in mind nowhere sells stock doors at this size Im having to go custom as above...my friend wants hardwood (oak) which I agree with entirely but do I just do the same thing as with UPVC and subtract say 15mm off each dimension (listed above) and then order the custom frame at that size?

I was going to use frame fixings (no surprise!) but what is the best method to use when fitting an (expensive) external frame?

Like the gap that will surround the frame once it is fitted....with UPVC I would use expanding foam and UPVC trims, but with this I need to keep it in keeping with the 200+ year old cottage.

I was thinking wooden chocks to get the frame straight in the aperture..
Frame fixings (not sure if theres a different type I need?) to fasten the frame to the walls
Mortar for the gap surrounding the door and frame

but Im sure theres a better way!

Assistance appreciated guys

scott · Post by **scott** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:29 pm

it sounds like you've answered most of your own questions there.

personally i've not done much in upvc doors myself but have done 1000's of timber doors and frames.

the gap sounds about right,looking for about 5 or so mm gap all round.
use some shimes pushed into the gaps so u can plumb your door frame and header,fix the frame then cut off excess shimes i would use.. Unibond Frame Sealant Clear 310ml £4.49 from screwfix (hope there no rules on adverts sorry if there is) or u can use a expanding foam but i personally would use the silicon because it will all be hidden behind the door faceing anyway.hope thats a bit of help for u.

oh!! fixings yes u can use your frame fixings or what i use good old fashioned screws and plugs just as strong.

darkhorse · Post by **darkhorse** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:43 pm

scott wrote:it sounds like you've answered most of your own questions there.

personally i've not done much in upvc doors myself but have done 1000's of timber doors and frames.

the gap sounds about right,looking for about 5 or so mm gap all round.
use some shimes pushed into the gaps so u can plumb your door frame and header,fix the frame then cut off excess shimes i would use.. Unibond Frame Sealant Clear 310ml £4.49 from screwfix (hope there no rules on adverts sorry if there is) or u can use a expanding foam but i personally would use the silicon because it will all be hidden behind the door faceing anyway.hope thats a bit of help for u.

oh!! fixings yes u can use your frame fixings or what i use good old fashioned screws and plugs just as strong.

Cheers for the input Scott

Just wanted to check I wasnt missing any tricks or about to drop a big booboo

As regards the door facing..... is this something that should come with the frame? because the frame will be smaller than the aperture size meaning I will have a small gap all round it?!!

Is it something I need to buy/make seperate or what? because unless its a part of the frame (which will have to be smaller than the hole!) I dont think it comes with this custom door/frame..

I think I will go with screws and plugs....Its a safer method I reckon for expensive wood like this! and just as strong like you say.

Also, if I do minus 10mm off the smalles measurement then providing Ive measured up right (I have!) then the door will have a 10mm gap in places. Might be a bit big for silicone no? Im thinking trusty expanding foam might be needed!!

Gadget · Post by **Gadget** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:53 pm

Expanding foam is the way to go, and then fill any gaps left with the stuff thats exposed!

scott · Post by **scott** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:54 pm

the maxium gap should only be 5mm at either side and when u plumb your frame the gap might be less than that it could go from a 5mm gap at the top down to only 1-2 mm at the base

facing will more than likey not come with the frame,and you might have to scribe the facing to match in with the uneven wall.

also remember the door threshold that will have to be sealed with some silicon to stop rain from running under or your foam it pretty much come down to personal choice

darkhorse · Post by **darkhorse** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:59 pm

scott wrote:the maxium gap should only be 5mm at either side and when u plumb your frame the gap might be less than that it could go from a 5mm gap at the top down to only 1-2 mm at the base

facing will more than likey not come with the frame,and you might have to scribe the facing to match in with the uneven wall.

also remember the door threshold that will have to be sealed with some silicon to stop rain from running under or your foam it pretty much come down to personal choice

Thanks guys

I will seal the foam in with silicone anyway Scott as I would with UPVC as the foam is not watertight itself (I dont think!)

Re the facing. Thanks for the heads up....I will check with the joinery shop if it does come with the frame.

Good point regarding scribing the facing. Sounds a likely possibility given the shape of the walls!!!

Regarding the gap, I see whta you mean but if the frame is xx and yy dimension when set 'true'

and if the door opening is xx + 10mm and YY + 10mm then surely Im going to be left with a 10mm gap at some point around the frame?!!

maybe I need to reduce the margin to 5mm and hope to god Ive measure up right!!