LED UV box
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LED UV box
Hello all
First post here and I do hope that someone can help me. I am a potter and would like to make a UV box as described here
Search google for-
build-a-uv-led-box-for-cyanotypes
My reason is that I want to use alternative photographic processes on ceramic. Now the instructions are quite light on exactly what I need.
I plan to purchase this LED strip (2 x 5 m to wire left and right hand side of the box in two separate in parallel strips)
Specification:
Input volts: DC 12V
SMD Type: 3528/5050
Wattage: 0.08W/LED(3528 SMD), 0.2W/LED(5050 SMD)
Wavelength:395-405nm
Strip Length: 0.5M/1M/2M/3M/4M/5M
Long life span 50,000+ hours
Protection Rank: IP65 waterproof/IP20 Non-Waterproof
PCB Color: White
Is Dimmable: Yes(dimmer required)
Is Trimmable: Yes(cuttable every three LEDs)
Drive Mode:Contant Voltage
Beam Angle: 120°
Viewing Angle: adjustable by mounting position
Working Tempreture:-20°to 50°
Size: W1.0cm x T0.25c
And I have a black plastic box that is 60x40x13 (lxwxh)
I am now at a loss and I would appreciate some advice on exactly what to buy to connect this all up. Things I am thinking of
1. Power supply
2 Transformer
3 The kind of wire to connect everything in parallel
4. In line switch
5. A connector to hook everything to
6. Should I buy snap on connectors or a soldering kit?
7. Do I need to wire a small fan in parallel to distribute heat
I appreciate that this is my first post and this is a big ask but I am getting very confused and have absolutely no idea what to buy.
If providing direct names of products is okay then that would be great. I think I will be okay on putting everything together (I can repair a kiln!) but this has just got me stumped.
Thank you
First post here and I do hope that someone can help me. I am a potter and would like to make a UV box as described here
Search google for-
build-a-uv-led-box-for-cyanotypes
My reason is that I want to use alternative photographic processes on ceramic. Now the instructions are quite light on exactly what I need.
I plan to purchase this LED strip (2 x 5 m to wire left and right hand side of the box in two separate in parallel strips)
Specification:
Input volts: DC 12V
SMD Type: 3528/5050
Wattage: 0.08W/LED(3528 SMD), 0.2W/LED(5050 SMD)
Wavelength:395-405nm
Strip Length: 0.5M/1M/2M/3M/4M/5M
Long life span 50,000+ hours
Protection Rank: IP65 waterproof/IP20 Non-Waterproof
PCB Color: White
Is Dimmable: Yes(dimmer required)
Is Trimmable: Yes(cuttable every three LEDs)
Drive Mode:Contant Voltage
Beam Angle: 120°
Viewing Angle: adjustable by mounting position
Working Tempreture:-20°to 50°
Size: W1.0cm x T0.25c
And I have a black plastic box that is 60x40x13 (lxwxh)
I am now at a loss and I would appreciate some advice on exactly what to buy to connect this all up. Things I am thinking of
1. Power supply
2 Transformer
3 The kind of wire to connect everything in parallel
4. In line switch
5. A connector to hook everything to
6. Should I buy snap on connectors or a soldering kit?
7. Do I need to wire a small fan in parallel to distribute heat
I appreciate that this is my first post and this is a big ask but I am getting very confused and have absolutely no idea what to buy.
If providing direct names of products is okay then that would be great. I think I will be okay on putting everything together (I can repair a kiln!) but this has just got me stumped.
Thank you
- kellys_eye
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LED UV box
What you don't indicate is how many LEDs there are per metre. This is required to make the proper calculations.
If, for example, there were 30 LEDs per metre then the type 3528 would require 30 x 0.08W = 0.24W PER METRE so for a 5m tape a total of 1.2 watts. Assuming the same density for the 5050 version (30 LEDs per metre) it would require a total of 6 watts.
Watts are VOLTS multiplied by AMPS and since your LEDs require 12V they will have a current draw of 1.2/12 (or 6/12) which equals 0.1 amps (or 0.5 amps).
It is always better to have a power supply that is rated OVER what you need to keep the heat down and make it last longer so any power supply that provides 12V at ONE amp (or more) will work for a 5m length of LED tape (either version).
You don't necessarily need a switch as you could just turn the power supply on/off at the socket but any single pole switch (SPST) wired in series with one of the DC power lines would work. No fan is required.
The LED tapes can be cut at multiple places (they are all marked as to where) and soldering wires to 'continue' the tracks is as simple as A to A and B to B using single core 0.25mm wire will do. If you can get LED tape with push on connectors so much the easier.
So:
Power rack with a 12V output rated at 1 amp or more.
A single pole switch (called an SPST)
Soldering iron, solder, wire etc.
If, for example, there were 30 LEDs per metre then the type 3528 would require 30 x 0.08W = 0.24W PER METRE so for a 5m tape a total of 1.2 watts. Assuming the same density for the 5050 version (30 LEDs per metre) it would require a total of 6 watts.
Watts are VOLTS multiplied by AMPS and since your LEDs require 12V they will have a current draw of 1.2/12 (or 6/12) which equals 0.1 amps (or 0.5 amps).
It is always better to have a power supply that is rated OVER what you need to keep the heat down and make it last longer so any power supply that provides 12V at ONE amp (or more) will work for a 5m length of LED tape (either version).
You don't necessarily need a switch as you could just turn the power supply on/off at the socket but any single pole switch (SPST) wired in series with one of the DC power lines would work. No fan is required.
The LED tapes can be cut at multiple places (they are all marked as to where) and soldering wires to 'continue' the tracks is as simple as A to A and B to B using single core 0.25mm wire will do. If you can get LED tape with push on connectors so much the easier.
So:
Power rack with a 12V output rated at 1 amp or more.
A single pole switch (called an SPST)
Soldering iron, solder, wire etc.
Last edited by kellys_eye on Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- AnimalBones (Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:15 pm)
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Don't take it personally......
- Someone-Else
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LED UV box
As kellys_eye points out, I would not bother with a switch as you will need to find somewhere to mount it, and it is another thing to go wrong, and if you don't know what you are doing you could short out the power supply, and the power supply would still be on, so switching it off at the mains would be better and easier.
I would suggest that "snap connectors" would be easier, since no soldering required, and I have seen right-angled ones (For going round corners) Make sure you get the right ones, as some are for 3 tracks some are for 4 tracks (Colour changing strip) you just want it for 2 tracks.
As for which actual parts, its personal choice and budget, so long as they fit the criteria. (I personally do not like small power supplies, so I buy the bigger physical sized ones, I keep a few of them on the shelf, it's just my personal choice, no other reason)
I would suggest that "snap connectors" would be easier, since no soldering required, and I have seen right-angled ones (For going round corners) Make sure you get the right ones, as some are for 3 tracks some are for 4 tracks (Colour changing strip) you just want it for 2 tracks.
As for which actual parts, its personal choice and budget, so long as they fit the criteria. (I personally do not like small power supplies, so I buy the bigger physical sized ones, I keep a few of them on the shelf, it's just my personal choice, no other reason)
- These users thanked the author Someone-Else for the post:
- AnimalBones (Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:15 pm)
- Rating: 7.14%
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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LED UV box
Many thanks
The tape is quoted as 5 m with 300 LED at 0.2 W per LED (so 60 W)
So does this mean I can make do with a single 12 V power supply if I wire them in parallel or do I need something else (I keep seeing reference to transformers)?
The tape is quoted as 5 m with 300 LED at 0.2 W per LED (so 60 W)
So does this mean I can make do with a single 12 V power supply if I wire them in parallel or do I need something else (I keep seeing reference to transformers)?
kellys_eye wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:49 am What you don't indicate is how many LEDs there are per metre. This is required to make the proper calculations.
If, for example, there were 30 LEDs per metre then the type 3528 would require 30 x 0.08W = 0.24W PER METRE so for a 5m tape a total of 1.2 watts. Assuming the same density for the 5050 version (30 LEDs per metre) it would require a total of 6 watts.
Watts are VOLTS multiplied by AMPS and since your LEDs require 12V they will have a current draw of 1.2/12 (or 6/12) which equals 0.1 amps (or 0.5 amps).
It is always better to have a power supply that is rated OVER what you need to keep the heat down and make it last longer so any power supply that provides 12V at ONE amp (or more) will work for a 5m length of LED tape (either version).
You don't necessarily need a switch as you could just turn the power supply on/off at the socket but any single pole switch (SPST) wired in series with one of the DC power lines would work. No fan is required.
The LED tapes can be cut at multiple places (they are all marked as to where) and soldering wires to 'continue' the tracks is as simple as A to A and B to B using single core 0.25mm wire will do. If you can get LED tape with push on connectors so much the easier.
So:
Power rack with a 12V output rated at 1 amp or more.
A single pole switch (called an SPST)
Soldering iron, solder, wire etc.
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LED UV box
Thanks. I will be wiring two batches of nine strips in parallel. Simple question. Can I buy a pack of snap connectors that have wires coming out of the back (of varying length depending on where they are in the box) and, if so, how do I wire these nine wires into into the power supply?
I hope that’s simple. Thanks to all for your time.
I hope that’s simple. Thanks to all for your time.
Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:23 pm As kellys_eye points out, I would not bother with a switch as you will need to find somewhere to mount it, and it is another thing to go wrong, and if you don't know what you are doing you could short out the power supply, and the power supply would still be on, so switching it off at the mains would be better and easier.
I would suggest that "snap connectors" would be easier, since no soldering required, and I have seen right-angled ones (For going round corners) Make sure you get the right ones, as some are for 3 tracks some are for 4 tracks (Colour changing strip) you just want it for 2 tracks.
As for which actual parts, its personal choice and budget, so long as they fit the criteria. (I personally do not like small power supplies, so I buy the bigger physical sized ones, I keep a few of them on the shelf, it's just my personal choice, no other reason)
Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:23 pm As kellys_eye points out, I would not bother with a switch as you will need to find somewhere to mount it, and it is another thing to go wrong, and if you don't know what you are doing you could short out the power supply, and the power supply would still be on, so switching it off at the mains would be better and easier.
I would suggest that "snap connectors" would be easier, since no soldering required, and I have seen right-angled ones (For going round corners) Make sure you get the right ones, as some are for 3 tracks some are for 4 tracks (Colour changing strip) you just want it for 2 tracks.
As for which actual parts, its personal choice and budget, so long as they fit the criteria. (I personally do not like small power supplies, so I buy the bigger physical sized ones, I keep a few of them on the shelf, it's just my personal choice, no other reason)
Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:23 pm As kellys_eye points out, I would not bother with a switch as you will need to find somewhere to mount it, and it is another thing to go wrong, and if you don't know what you are doing you could short out the power supply, and the power supply would still be on, so switching it off at the mains would be better and easier.
I would suggest that "snap connectors" would be easier, since no soldering required, and I have seen right-angled ones (For going round corners) Make sure you get the right ones, as some are for 3 tracks some are for 4 tracks (Colour changing strip) you just want it for 2 tracks.
As for which actual parts, its personal choice and budget, so long as they fit the criteria. (I personally do not like small power supplies, so I buy the bigger physical sized ones, I keep a few of them on the shelf, it's just my personal choice, no other reason)
- Someone-Else
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LED UV box
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- AnimalBones (Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:16 pm)
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Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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LED UV box
Depends where you buy them as to if they have what you require. (I have never looked)AnimalBones wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:00 pm Simple question. Can I buy a pack of snap connectors that have wires coming out of the back (of varying length depending on where they are in the box)
You have answered your own question.AnimalBones wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:00 pmand, if so, how do I wire these nine wires into into the power supply?
AnimalBones wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:00 pmI will be wiring two batches of nine strips in parallel.
- These users thanked the author Someone-Else for the post:
- AnimalBones (Sat Dec 19, 2020 3:48 pm)
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Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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LED UV box
I’m still confused, I’m afraid. I see lots of power supplies on line that just look like a plug with a round connector at the end. Is this sufficient for 9 strips of LEDS (total 300 LED at 0.2 W per LED)? If I have 9 connectors to the strips, each with wire coming out the back, how do I wire these into a single power supply?
- Someone-Else
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You wire them as you said, in parallel.
If the power supply you intend to buy has a plug, then buy the corresponding socket and wire everything to that. (You may find connector block will help.)
If the power supply you intend to buy has a plug, then buy the corresponding socket and wire everything to that. (You may find connector block will help.)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
- kellys_eye
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300 LEDs at 0.2W is 60W which, at 12V is about 5 amps.
Get a power supply of at least FIVE amps to power the strip(s) you want. The type of PSU that looks like a laptop charger will do - here's a typical one I found on Ebay.
Personally I would cut down the number of LEDs to fit the output of the power pack shown - you could, of course, find one with a higher rated output.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Mains-AC- ... SwIFhfto2t
Get a power supply of at least FIVE amps to power the strip(s) you want. The type of PSU that looks like a laptop charger will do - here's a typical one I found on Ebay.
Personally I would cut down the number of LEDs to fit the output of the power pack shown - you could, of course, find one with a higher rated output.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Mains-AC- ... SwIFhfto2t
Don't take it personally......
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Thank you all for your help. I was able to work out everything I needed from the advice given
- Someone-Else
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Picture?
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section