Smart dimmer wiring

The Latch Key Kid · Post by **The Latch Key Kid** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 1:44 pm

My old 2 gang switch had 2 blocks with com, L1,L2 on both. 1 red wire in com, bridged to the other com. 1 black wire in 1st block in L2. 2nd block has 1 red wire in L1 and 1 black in L2. My new dimmer has X L N X , can you help tell me where they go? This is a lightwave dimmer, so the neutral is not needed, I know it is on other dimmers but it isn't on these, so that is not the issue.

: old switch.jpg (123.94 KiB) Viewed 1684 times

: new switch.jpg (89.67 KiB) Viewed 1684 times

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 3:16 pm

As you have the instructions and I don't what do they say? (Oh and make model of your switch would be great)

The Latch Key Kid · Post by **The Latch Key Kid** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:34 pm

The instructions don't really help with the wires I have. I have attached the instructions and also the make and model info.

: 20210821_172252.jpg (119.83 KiB) Viewed 1666 times

: 20210821_172553.jpg (123.97 KiB) Viewed 1666 times

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 5:26 pm

The Latch Key Kid wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:34 pmThe instructions don't really help with the wires I have.

Yes they do.

I suggest you number each cable, take another picture, then I can say which wire to put where (Just like the diagram shows)

The Latch Key Kid · Post by **The Latch Key Kid** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 5:57 pm

ok, thank you..

: old switch numbers.jpg (124.98 KiB) Viewed 1656 times

ericmark · Post by **ericmark** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 6:58 pm

It seems wired using this

: two-way-school-boy.jpg (24.12 KiB) Viewed 1647 times

system which is unusual normally we would use this method,

: two-way-real.jpg (32.97 KiB) Viewed 1647 times

however I see no provision on the new switch for two way wiring, I know Energenie do a smart switch with two way, but once you move to electronic switches they tend to work and master slave and the third wire is not 230 volt, so both switches would need changing.

With a smart switch you may not need the two way as such, but you would not want to have to use the phone to do switching you would want a remote switch or remote control.

The X is not really an X it is a sine wave with a line through it to show output from the switch.

Personally I have used smart bulbs, although finding remote controls seems to be a problem, one came with the Lidi smart GU10 kit and was designed to control the three smart bulbs using zigbee, but the remote is not sold on its own, and the remotes I bought don't seem to link to zigbee even when they say they do. I have ordered a 2 Gang ZigBee Switch Module Design ZigBee 3.0 Intelligent Light which I intend fitting in the lamp rather than replacing the switch, if I have read it correct the switch will flip/flop the controller between states, so I intend to have the 5 lights top of stairs controlled with it, however still waiting so not sure if it will work as I want.

Dimming and colour changing is far easier using smart bulbs today, I did fit smart switches and they caused problems, flashing the LED when switched off, and a shimmer when switched on, and even when cured of the 5 smart switches I started with only two still working after just 2 years, and it is a pain to swap a switch, having to isolate power, so the bulb option does seem in the main better, if it fails easy enough to return to standard bulb.

Neelix · Post by **Neelix** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 6:59 pm

1 of those switches is probably a 2 way switch ……

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Sat Aug 21, 2021 10:32 pm

As it shows in the diagram
Cable 4 connects to L
Cable 1 connects to the squiggly line with an arrow
Cable 3 connects to the OTHER squiggly line with an arrow

N is left empty.
The link wire from C to C terminal is NOT required (Leave it where it is)

It should work, but you will not be able to use the other switch that you have as you need to change that too. (As the instructions clearly state: see section 3 for more information)

The Latch Key Kid · Post by **The Latch Key Kid** » Sun Aug 22, 2021 9:39 am

Thanks S-E. No. 2 is not needed, is that right? The Hall switch is now working as it should, i.e I can operate the hall and landing from downstairs. However, the switch upstairs for the landing light has lost all power. The double switch downstairs is a smart dimmable lightwave and the single switch upstairs is also a smart dimmable lightwave. Is the black No. 2 wire, the power for upstairs?
Thanks again for helping me with this, you are the most knowledgeable guy I've spoken to and you are straight to the point too, so thanks..

The Latch Key Kid · Post by **The Latch Key Kid** » Sun Aug 22, 2021 1:19 pm

Just in case there is something wrong with the switch on the Landing, I will attach pics of how that was wired. (wasn't me, honest). Landing switch looks like this: all wires have a bit of brown tape on them.

: 20210822_135937.jpg (108.36 KiB) Viewed 1613 times

: 20210822_132318.jpg (116.02 KiB) Viewed 1613 times

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Sun Aug 22, 2021 10:28 pm

You would need to check what "section 3" of the diagram says

Until then, yes cable number 2 is not needed. (DON'T cut it off, put a wago on it)

Without a multi meter I can not help any further

If it helps, you could have got 4 colour change smart lamps for the same price you paid for one of the switches you have, and the lamps don't need wiring alterations, and you can ask Alexa to turn them on and off.