Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

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mudmouse
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by mudmouse »

Are you saying it is zone 1 (which is usually the entry/exit) or are there others connected to this zone?
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by somhairle »

mudmouse wrote: Fri Sep 17, 2021 6:05 pm Are you saying it is zone 1 (which is usually the entry/exit) or are there others connected to this zone?
Yes, it is zone 1. The other 2 are different zones.
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by mudmouse »

Do you know what sensors are linked to zone one. Is it just magnetic door contacts or are there any PIRs ?
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by somhairle »

mudmouse wrote: Fri Sep 17, 2021 7:27 pm Do you know what sensors are linked to zone one. Is it just magnetic door contacts or are there any PIRs ?
Sorry, I got it wrong earlier.

Zone 1 is the front door sensor.
Zone 3 is the hall PIR

There is no PIR attached to zone 1. Just the door sensor.
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by mudmouse »

That magnetic sensor is likely to be the culprit then. If you can take it out and test it it should be open circuit when the door is open and closed circuit when the corresponding magnet is next to it.
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Someone-Else
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by Someone-Else »

somhairle wrote: Fri Sep 17, 2021 3:37 pmcan I still carry out the checks suggested by mudmouse if only the user code has been used to cancel the alarm?
Yes you can, as I said earlier
Someone-Else wrote: Fri Sep 17, 2021 8:04 am (Oh, if all is well when you open the panel the internal sounder should activate, enter your code to silence it.)
Yes, the engineer code disables all the tampers, and allows the system to be programmed, but as no programming is to be done (At this time) a user code will be ok.

However, I would suggest NOT taking the front door contact apart since it will cause more problems than it solves.

FYI: An alarm contact is in two parts, the fixed part is a magnetic reed switch, which is mounted in a plastic "case" some are round and fitted flush into the door frame (You will see a small oblong on the frame) or they are surface mount in which case you will see a 4cm long oblong fixed to the door frame surface. (Could also be an aluminium lump)

In either case there will also be a magnet on the door (No wires) The magnet will look just like the contact, I would make sure that it is actually there and is not damaged.
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somhairle (Sat Sep 18, 2021 6:03 am)
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by somhairle »

IMG_1352 copy.jpg
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I have had to remove these sensors a few times in the past and had no problems with them. This is the type of sensor on the front door - zone 1.

Would a fault here be likely to cause the PIR on zone 3 to remain on?
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Post by Someone-Else »

somhairle wrote: Sat Sep 18, 2021 6:49 amThis is the type of sensor on the front door - zone 1. Would a fault here be likely to cause the PIR on zone 3 to remain on?
No.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
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Post by Someone-Else »

:scratch: somhairle You are there, we are not, what to you looks "normal" maybe part of the problem, you have now shown a picture (Nice clear picture :thumbright: ) with an "extra part" (It's actually a shock sensor)

I think it would be best if we started again, and this time, no matter how "irrelevant" you think something is, please mention it. :-)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

What happend in the first place.
You mentioned power cut, how long for and was the alarm set?
When did you last set the alarm and leave the house?
Have you taken the battery out yet? (If not, why not?)
You have only so far mentioned 3 circuits (It should have more, as each device should be on its own circuit)
Do you have a multi meter? (I am guessing not)
Do you have a circuit list?
(An in focus picture of inside the panel would be nice)

As I said, I am trying to help, but as I am not there, I have to ask lots of questions.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
somhairle
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by somhairle »

Someone-Else wrote: Sat Sep 18, 2021 10:04 am :scratch: somhairle You are there, we are not, what to you looks "normal" maybe part of the problem, you have now shown a picture (Nice clear picture :thumbright: ) with an "extra part" (It's actually a shock sensor)

I think it would be best if we started again, and this time, no matter how "irrelevant" you think something is, please mention it. :-)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

What happend in the first place.
You mentioned power cut, how long for and was the alarm set?
When did you last set the alarm and leave the house?
Have you taken the battery out yet? (If not, why not?)
You have only so far mentioned 3 circuits (It should have more, as each device should be on its own circuit)
Do you have a multi meter? (I am guessing not)
Do you have a circuit list?
(An in focus picture of inside the panel would be nice)

As I said, I am trying to help, but as I am not there, I have to ask lots of questions.
I posted the pic of the door sensor as it had been mentioned. Going over the issue again.

A few days ago, the power to the alarm circuit was turned off by accident. Normally, there would be no problem with that. So presumably the battery has failed. The power was off for no more than 20 minutes and the alarm was not set. While the power was off, the alarm made a muted, buzzing sound - perhaps because there was a lack of power to sound the alarm properly due to the failed battery? When power was restored. The alarm sounded normally.

I reset the alarm and all the internal PIRS stayed on. That is on zones 3, 4, 5. By then setting the alarm and subsequently unsetting it, the PIRS in zones 4 and 5 cleared - but not the PIR on zone 3 which is still on.

The alarm was last set 20 hours ago and seemed fine other than the PIR remaining on. I had set/unset it a couple of times following the problem.

The sensors seem fine and are not displaying as being on.

I do have a multi-meter.

Not sure exactly what you mean by a circuit list. The zone list is:

zone 1 - front door
zone 2 - side door
zone 3 - hall PIR
zone 4 - Lounge PIR
zone 5 - Dining room PIR
Zone 6 - Inertia sensors.

I think this is as much as I can say. I will try to get a pic of the inside of the unit.

It has been suggested that I remove the battery to check if it will clear, but have yet to do this. In any case, I have made the assumption that the battery is dead and intend to get a new one and replace it.
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Post by somhairle »

IMG_1574 copy.jpg
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I have removed the battery and nothing has changed. I tried to set the alarm and it seems to set ok.

Attached is a pic of the circuit board and the battery is currently out of the alarm.
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by Someone-Else »

Nice picture. :thumbright:

As I said, as we are not there it has to be lots more questions. (It may take a while, but we will get there)

I am confused, you said.
somhairle wrote: Fri Sep 17, 2021 6:00 pm It is the first one (zone 1)
But then you said
somhairle wrote: Sat Sep 18, 2021 10:40 am the PIRS in zones 4 and 5 cleared - but not the PIR on zone 3 which is still on.
Then you said
somhairle wrote: Sat Sep 18, 2021 10:57 amI tried to set the alarm and it seems to set ok.
Which is correct?

(Oh, you can put the lid back on now)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
somhairle
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by somhairle »

The only problem I have is that the PIR on zone 3 in the hall will not go off. It remains red.

I have now replaced the battery and taken a reading of the old battery which was 11.7v. The new was reading not much more than this.

The cover is back on and has been for a while - after replacing the battery.

I tried to clarify this as requested in the post above.
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Post by Someone-Else »

Just want to make sure I understand you right. (I did say it will be a lot of questions)
You can set/unset the alarm and all works as it should?
The PIR in the hall has its red LED on all the time?
(Any chance of a picture of the hall PIR)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
somhairle
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Alarm Systme PIRS Stuck On

Post by somhairle »

Someone-Else wrote: Sun Sep 19, 2021 12:44 am Just want to make sure I understand you right. (I did say it will be a lot of questions)
You can set/unset the alarm and all works as it should?
The PIR in the hall has its red LED on all the time?
(Any chance of a picture of the hall PIR)
All works as it should but the PIR remains lit at all times. Not the LED.
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