Worktops again.

buslane · Post by **buslane** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:23 pm

Have to fit some worktops, there is a long run under window and a small piece to join, to it. Can you tell me the method of how cut, join and what tools do I need ? Thanks Steve

Borderglazer · Post by **Borderglazer** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:32 pm

Hi,
Is it just a join between 2 lengths (ie straight run)?

Joe

buslane · Post by **buslane** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:38 pm

yes pretty much. one piece is 8' 9" and other is about 6"

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:42 pm

Is there a sink in the long run?

buslane · Post by **buslane** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:41 am

Hello, yes there is a sink in long run. Jaeger thanks for advice about boiler, its up and running thanks to Hinton.

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:00 am

See this thread and and click the link in the post by Welsh Decorator.
Using a jig but don't turn the last piece so you cut the same joint but not on a return.

Might also be worth assessing the layout and deciding on a joint at a location giving you a bit longer that say 6" or maybe pull back 300mm and instead of adding such a small piece (which is awkward) built a small tall cupboard straight up and allow for storage of iron board and brushes, mops etc. Usually forgotten about unless you've got a utility for these items?

Could incorporate a pull-out door on runners great for storing all sorts like this

chippymike · Post by **chippymike** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:19 pm

you need to cut both ends of you'r worktop square with a router and jig then cut the work top bolts out with the jig. Follow the link posted above its one of the best guides on the internet to explain how to use a worktop jig.

EJJ150847 · Post by **EJJ150847** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:32 pm

If you do cut them yourself, I recommend using old fashioned G cramps, sometimes the vibrations loosen the quick action clamps.

Practice a bit on joining 2 bits of scrap ply.

Good luck.

John

Teabag · Post by **Teabag** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:26 am

If they are being "butt" jointed (end to end) as long as the ends are straight/flat and push together giving a nice join on the laminate you would only need to us the bolt routing section of the jig, if you decide to use dog bone style worktop bolts.
if not you would need to use a straight section of it, to get the nice join. remember never make the cutter exit via the finished postformed edge, like already said one cut is always with the board upside down.
remember to put the clamps on accordingly, if theres no plastic protection on them or you may scratch the laminate.

dont think this is the case but..
if you require the join at 90 degrees then you would need to use the jig as intended for the miter, the instructions are very good on the link provided above. (make sure they provide the guide coller for the jig its usless without it).
deffo follow the advice above about using screw style clamps, "speed clamps" such as sliding style when you pull the trigger can loosen depending on quality and how worn they are when vibrated as explained above.

Its cheaper to rent a jig and router designed for the job.
and if your not confident enough, get a guy in to make the joint for you.
safety with routers is most improtand.

good luck.

hope that helps on top of the advice already given.

buslane · Post by **buslane** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:47 am

Thanks to all for the very helpful posts. Was weighing up cost of buying tools to do job or getting a professional to do worktops. But its a good excuse t buy tools

. Any suggestions for a good router. Thanks again.

Teabag · Post by **Teabag** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:54 pm

Im not too upto date with whats avaliable, BUT if you want it to do worktops it needs to be 1/2" collet size larger the motor the better...
(usually able to take the 1/4" collets too)

I'm sure your gonna get recomendations for dewalt and makita,
tbh, it depends what else you want to use the router for...
its one of those tools that its uses are very adaptable to different jobs, you need to think what you would want it for as this ultimatly will effect your choice of router.
when I baught my first router I baught a Trend T9 there first 1/2" router as it was designed to fit almost every Jig they made. same goes for there current models.
(Trend are one of the larger router cutter/Jig companys in the UK).
you will also find routers need many accessories to be used for a wide range of jobs. these cost unless you make your own. which is half the fun.

Dont just buy the first router you see, look carefull at the features
does it have a fine adjustment for depth?
is it soft start or variable speed?
whats the build quality like?
it it easy to turn on and off?
is it easy to lock plunge depth?
whats the max plunge depth?
handle them in the shop, get a demo if possible,
try to spot the down sides of a particular model or make, see what you could use it with, on the Trend site theres a compatability chart.
all these things will make a difference.
when you buy and use your first router you will understand why I say therse things.

hope it helped more than confused you..

buslane · Post by **buslane** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:18 pm

Thanks Teabag, have read other posts about routers on here. But the more you read it does get confusing. Would like to get a good one and try to do as much as possible with it. One other question why are the jigs so expensive ?

Thanks

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:43 pm

I'm a fan of Elu the MOFF 96 and 96e and the MOFF 177 and 177e 2 of the finest routers ever made and the 96 is held in high regard on many woodworking and router forums.

The funny thing is they are readily available and come with some good attachments.

There are a couple on fleebay at the moment and I would suggest if you're thinking of buying a decent router (circa £200) you wouldn't go wrong to check them out as you could secure a MOFF 96 (e) and a MOFF 177 (e) for that kind of money or less.

If you want the links PM me I've just done a search and there are a couple of very good looking MOFF 96's (one of them is a 96e (that's electronic speed control) and they both come with accessories)

Teabag · Post by **Teabag** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 12:03 am

I have a Elu moff96 nice router, btw buslane thats a 1/4" router, and would not be capable of doing worktop miters.
Again it comes down to what you want to use a router for, dictates your choice of machine.
havent used my elu as of yet, I was lucky enough to inherit it from work, who were throwing out a router table, which i was asked if i wanted... (DAMN RIGHT) and elu moff96 was still attached. yes it works fine, first thing I tested soon as i got it home.

ive also got a small bosh pof 500a which was my first router, and i must say its great to use for doing profile work, light and able to be controlled in one hand easily. but is very limited on what can be done with it regards accessories.

but my favourite is my trend t9. does everything I want and more. with all the attachments. and the many worktop jigs Ive made for it.

Why are Jigs so expensive? Initially I would assume its due to development and testing, materials and multi functional use, and tight tollerances in the case of worktop jigs. but once the design is copied into a cnc machine I imagine those things are forgotten then its down to profit margin.

EJJ150847 · Post by **EJJ150847** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:33 pm

I also recommend at least 1600 watts of power to cope with the thickness of the worktop.

John