Add single socket to fused spur

[hiace_drifter]

I have a fused spur on a bedroom wall, which feeds a security light outside. It's right where I need a socket for a bedside light. Can i convert it into a socket AND fused spur? (A bit like what I have seen for cookers). It is surface mount.

[Someone-Else]

Yes.
You must supply the socket from the fused side of the spur, since the FCU is already a spur.

It will be easier if it is all surface, if you want it flush you can get a double flush box that you can have a socket and an FCU on, side by side.

[hiace_drifter]

Just to check:

1. where there is a L out to the security light, I also put a L out to the new socket (dashed red line to show new cable)
2. where there is a N out to the security light, I also put a N out to the new socket (dashed black line to show new cable)
3. there is no fuse in the fused outlet (it was removed when we moved in as we didn't know what it fed). what rating fuse would i need?
4. to connect the new socket and fused spur, do i just place the two surface mount sockets side by side and run a short length of twin and earth between them?

spur.png (23.17 KiB) Viewed 3938 times

[ericmark]

Yes I did it hear

IMGP7387.jpg (101.88 KiB) Viewed 3927 times

used grid switch system, in this case LAP which I think is Screwfix special so fuse holder switch and single socket in one double socket face plate.

[hiace_drifter]

Just starting this job. There is no fuse in the fused outlet ... what fuse would I use? thanks.

[arco_iris]

If it was just an FCU serving a lamp, then either a red 3amp or a black 5 amp.

But as you are now fitting a socket that might potentially be used for, say, a 3kw heater, then the fuse should be a brown 13A.

[hiace_drifter]

If it was just an FCU serving a lamp, then either a red 3amp or a black 5 amp.

But as you are now fitting a socket that might potentially be used for, say, a 3kw heater, then the fuse should be a brown 13A.

Thanks. I have some lengths of grey twin and earth - do they come in more than one thickness? Do I need to check it is thick enough? It's in my daughter's bedroom next to her bed, so being an over cautious father

[Scotty001]

I'm no expert but.... a fuse high enough to cope with the load of the light (if it still going to be used) and whatever appliance you are likely to plug into the socket, but low enough that the wiring is protected and doesn't burn out.

If it were me I'd guess at 3/5a if the socket will only have a bedside lamp / phone charger
7a if it's things like a newish TV / laptop
10a if it's something more powerful. Just remember tho someone may not realise what your intentions were for the socket and go plugging in a hair drier / hair straighteners, iron, kettle (some people just need that morning coffee there and then) which are likely to pull a higher load and activate the fuse. Angry wife trying to Dry wet hair when power goes off is akin to a pit bull chewing on a bumble Bee, in both looks and attitude (well from my experience anyhow)

[Scotty001]

Thanks. I have some lengths of grey twin and earth - do they come in more than one thickness? Do I need to check it is thick enough? It's in my daughter's bedroom next to her bed, so being an over cautious father

T&e does come in different thicknesses,
lighting is normally 1/1.5mm
Sockets 2.5mm
Shiwers and ovens 6mm+
It should be stamped / imprinted on the grey cable sheith wat size the cable is

[hiace_drifter]

Thanks. I have some lengths of grey twin and earth - do they come in more than one thickness? Do I need to check it is thick enough? It's in my daughter's bedroom next to her bed, so being an over cautious father

T&e does come in different thicknesses,
lighting is normally 1/1.5mm
Sockets 2.5mm
Shiwers and ovens 6mm+
It should be stamped / imprinted on the grey cable sheith wat size the cable is

Found the size on the twin & earth - 2x2.5mm

Is there a tool to trim back the outer sheath, other than carefully score with a sharp knife? Every so often I nick the inner blue/brown sheathing too, which is a pain.

Also, how much outer sheath do you leave inside the back box?

[arco_iris]

Forty years ago an electrician cousin (now dec'd, served him right for marrying my ex-gf) taught/showed me........

Gently press a craft knife ("Stanley") blade into the flat side of t&e about 6"/15cm from the end, not too deep, it only needs to be "scored". Turn it over and do the other side in the same place. Do not make any cut on the narrow sides.

Then, put the same blade on the end of the cable next to the central earth core and start to slit it. Very gently hold the knife at a slight angle pointing towards the earth and slit along - the blade slides along the earth without damaging the blue or brown insulation.

On reaching the sideways score, withdraw the knife. Separate the outer sheath from one of the insulated cores, at the end. Pull it downwards, when it meets the score the outer just snaps off cleanly, and straight. Little annoys me more than seeing the outer sheath "torn"!

If you do it often, Knipex 13 86 200 is a great tool, it has a slightly curved cutting blade that does the same job, though not the slitting. Also strips 1.5mm & 2.5mm wires. But they're £40/50.

As for length, anywhere from 25mm - 75mm outer inside the back box is sufficient.

[Scotty001]

I use a cable / wire stripper like this

It will cut the outer and the inner sheiths.
But mine is a lidl / aldi set which are half the cost but decent quality.

I normally leave a cm or so but it depends on the depth of the backbox

[hiace_drifter]

I use a cable / wire stripper like this

It will cut the outer and the inner sheiths.
But mine is a lidl / aldi set which are half the cost but decent quality.

I normally leave a cm or so but it depends on the depth of the backbox

I have that exact stripper! I will practice on the outer

[hiace_drifter]

Forty years ago an electrician cousin (now dec'd, served him right for marrying my ex-gf) taught/showed me........

Gently press a craft knife ("Stanley") blade into the flat side of t&e about 6"/15cm from the end, not too deep, it only needs to be "scored". Turn it over and do the other side in the same place. Do not make any cut on the narrow sides.

Then, put the same blade on the end of the cable next to the central earth core and start to slit it. Very gently hold the knife at a slight angle pointing towards the earth and slit along - the blade slides along the earth without damaging the blue or brown insulation.

On reaching the sideways score, withdraw the knife. Separate the outer sheath from one of the insulated cores, at the end. Pull it downwards, when it meets the score the outer just snaps off cleanly, and straight. Little annoys me more than seeing the outer sheath "torn"!

If you do it often, Knipex 13 86 200 is a great tool, it has a slightly curved cutting blade that does the same job, though not the slitting. Also strips 1.5mm & 2.5mm wires. But they're £40/50.

As for length, anywhere from 25mm - 75mm outer inside the back box is sufficient.

I think I know what you mean, but will draw a diagram to check!

[wine~o]

The fuse (in the FCU) is there to protect the cable, not the device. so a socket (whether single or double) run in 2.5mm twin and earth can be protected by a 13 A fuse.