Advice on tools and joining techniques for work project.

MrVimes · Post by **MrVimes** » Tue Dec 07, 2021 2:56 pm

So, somehow at my workplace I've ended up being the woodwork guy because I have a very limited bit of DIY knowledge and I've completed a couple of small projects to the owners satisfaction. Now I have a new project...

: PXL_20211207_142332285.jpg (143.08 KiB) Viewed 918 times

Basically a tray that's roughly half a metre on the long edge and half that again on the short. It's going to (currently) be made from 12mm MDF and painted white with perfect/invisible joins but my experience lies mostly with solid wood and nails/screws. The advice I need is two things; what's the best tools to cut with to get a perfect smooth edge and to do the cut outs to create the legs (I'm leaning towards a table saw)? Secondly what's the best - not too complicated - join for creating those smooth invisible seams that will work on MDF of that thickness?

Also I've seen mention of using moisture resistant MDF as it machines better?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Argyll · Post by **Argyll** » Tue Dec 07, 2021 3:38 pm

It depends on what tools you have.

When you say 'invisible seams' I'm not sure what you mean. If you don't want to see the seams at all you'll need to mitre the joints at 45.5 Degrees and glue/clamp them. If you just want a clean joint then use a pockethole jig. Again it depends on what you mean. You're also best using a small roundover bit with a trim router to get rid of the arris on the MDF.

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Tue Dec 07, 2021 3:45 pm

in your design you have a captive cut[starts or finishes mid board] this will mean you need a jigsaw or oscillating saw to finish into the corner
hidden joints will require housing joints 'biscuits 'dowels or other locking system all costing extra tools and materials if you dont have them already
something like 6mm x30mm dowels sticking out say 5mm as a feature may be acceptable as an alternative ???
you could off course just screw and fill but can be difficult to get a smooth paint finnish

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Tue Dec 07, 2021 4:13 pm

I would just screw and glue it together and countersink the screw heads. Use a good resin filler over the heads and the butt join lines. This job is all down to finish and this will be the thing that takes the time. I would stick some veneer on to the exposed cut edges to get a clean finish. You need to seal it well with two coats of BIN, part of the guidance in my link below will help.

DWD