No more nails

[glowboy26]

What do people think about using no more nails to put up shelving? It's apparently strong enough. I was going to use it to secure the battons to rest the shelves on. I'm only going to be putting some books and the odd box on them.

[ellie]

The weight of paper is between 60kg and 100kg (60gsm and 100gsm) per M3 so if you take an average book being 170 x 45 x 240mm weighs in at 1.150 kg. And let’s say 20 books = 23 kg, that’s more than a bag of cement weighs.

So what do you think?

You can also have a look at this

[big-all]

definatly not a good idea as you have several different layers and if any one is weak thats your strongest point

you realy need mechanical fixings brown plugs no7 masonery bit and assuming the wood is around 20 mm use 2 or 2.25" 8s or 10s[ 4.5 or5mm by 50 or 60mm]

[dirtydeeds]

im a carpenter and rarely use no nails or gripfil etc

i dont use it for anything load bearing because it does not spread or compress so the load is taken only by the glue line itself. for load bearing components always use mechanical fixings

i dont use it for non loadbearing trim such as skirtings the glue doesnt compress easily so it holds the trim OFF the wall and despite the advertised "grab" capacity it wont hold then skirting back against a bowed wall, it has to be wedged until the glue goes off

the wedging is an extra job (and you cant wedge off a carpeted or finished floor) and then theres the return visit to remove the wedging

you have to caulk the gap between the skirting and the wall, yet another extra job

i occasionally use it as gap filling beneath door threshold strips but still screw them down


that said gripfil and pinkgrip are the best of their type and are very good for new build works

[ellie]

i dont use it for non loadbearing trim such as skirtings the glue doesnt compress easily so it holds the trim OFF the wall

I am in a fortunate position that I produce all my own timber mouldings so on the rear of single sided mouldings like architraves, skirtings and cover mouldings etc I machine a grove 2mm deep this not only increases the stability of the timber moulding but also allows you to apply panel adhesive ( liquid nails or Gripfill ) By applying the panel adhesive within this grove it enables me I get a flush fitting joint. At the bottom or on the side of mouldings that are going to be but joint to another moulding I put a bevel of around 2 or 3 degrees this allows the moulding to fit extremely tightly to its neighbour or in the case of skirting to the floor.

The drawing shows a typical built up moulding and in this case a deep skirting board. This is the method I use when replacing existing skirting board. Instead of employing a plaster to make good the walls I turn the clocks back and fit grounds to the wall and by using dabs of adhesive plaster it enables me to get the skirting running true.

Once the grounds have set I fix the skirting using small head nails applied by air nailer and panel adhesive. I use this method as must if not all mouldings are normally hardwood such as European oak which I have pre-finished in my work shop.

[EJJ150847]

I like the drawing.
For fixing skirting I prefer to use timber blocks set in the wall and use screws filled with plugs after. This is on refurbs not new builds, bit of messing but I like using mahogany if I can get it.


John

[ellie]

I like the drawing.
For fixing skirting I prefer to use timber blocks set in the wall and use screws filled with plugs after. This is on refurbs not new builds, bit of messing but I like using mahogany if I can get it.


John

Your timber blocks are replaced by the plywood grounds which runs the full length of the wall, the plywood is not blocks of plywood , may be I need to make it more clearly in the guide. This means the skirting can be fixed anywhere along its length as required, and is fully supported.

I don’t use timber pellets at all at, at all; they look crap standing out like rain on a hot sunny day. I prefer my fixing to be secrete. But as I say all my projects are fully finished in my work shop before going to site. I use the plywood ground method be it for refurbishment projects or new build, its just a old fashioned method that as stud the test of time.

Lets be careful not hijack this thread it’s not very professional is it.