Best way to hide exposed wires in electric heater

ugoleaf · Post by **ugoleaf** » Sat Mar 12, 2022 9:03 am

Hello,

Guess I could use isolation tape to cover exposed wires but the cord would still wiggle.
I am wondering if I can isolate exposed wires without opening appliance so that cord would not wiggle.

Thanks

arco_iris · Post by **arco_iris** » Sat Mar 12, 2022 10:09 am

You need to unplug the appliance, remove the tape already there, dismantle the casing, loosen the internal cable clamp and remake the connections inside by shortening the cable. That is the correct way to repair it and it won't take long to do.

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Sat Mar 12, 2022 1:21 pm

arco_iris is correct, the insulation has broken because of movement over time, "covering it up" with tape will not solve anything, it will just hide the problem. If you leave it then the wearing out will continue and the wires will short out and there will be a loud bang.

ugoleaf · Post by **ugoleaf** » Wed Mar 16, 2022 10:37 am

arco_iris wrote: ↑Sat Mar 12, 2022 10:09 am You need to unplug the appliance, remove the tape already there, dismantle the casing, loosen the internal cable clamp and remake the connections inside by shortening the cable.

Why is shortening cable necessary? What if I just wrap a new tape around 3 exposed cords?

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Wed Mar 16, 2022 11:01 am

ugoleaf wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 10:37 amWhy is shortening cable necessary? What if I just wrap a new tape around 3 exposed cords?

You only shorten the cable by a few inches, enough to pull it inside the heater so the cord grip can do it's job.

As the heater has been moved around over time (no problem) the cable sheath gets stressed and wears out and breaks (Just like it has done) The inner cores need support which can not be given by wrapping tape around it. (No matter how much tape is used) What then happens is the cores rub against each other (They can't if they are in their sheath) the cores can then short out which means the heater can become live, or there will be a fire or there will be a bang.

All because the correct action was not taken.

Would you put a bit of tape on a tyre puncture and expect it to last, of course not, you would get the job done properly. Or wonder why your car is driving funny

As with the tyre scenario, its easy to fix, doesn't take long and will last for quite some time, unlike a bit of tape.

ugoleaf · Post by **ugoleaf** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:18 am

Someone-Else, Hello. The sheath won't budge forward. I wanted to pull it forward to expose more of it so I could put on isolation tape.

arco_iris · Post by **arco_iris** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:49 am

That is not what Someone-else and I expected to see!

Please post an image of the other side of that grey block, the back of it, opposite where the mains cable goes in, so we can see what it does and how the wires come out of it.

Neelix · Post by **Neelix** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 7:17 am

ugoleaf wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:18 am Someone-Else, Hello. The sheath won't budge forward. I wanted to pull it forward to expose more of it so I could put on isolation tape.

Adding insulation tape is NOT an acceptable improvement

ugoleaf · Post by **ugoleaf** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 8:13 am

arco_iris, Posted below:

: 20220319_101032.jpg (143.06 KiB) Viewed 1700 times

arco_iris · Post by **arco_iris** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 9:55 am

Ah, so the grey block *IS* the cable strain relief and was moulded like that at the factory - so nothing you can do with it.

Are you able to get to, and remake, where the three wires meet the heater itself?

In this case, cut the cable where it has deteriorated.
Carefully strip back the black cable outer to give you enough length to remake the connections.
Draw the cable through the casing that you have removed, and tie a knot in it so that it cannot pull back through.

Remake the connections, as they are highly unlikely to be screw terminals, you will need crimp terminals - either the correct size blade type where the wires meet the control switch, or use in-line connectors to join the existing internal wires you have just cut to your freshly prepared supply cable. (DO NOT TWIST BARE ENDS TOGETHER AND WRAP IN YOUR INSULATING TAPE! - use proper connectors.)

It would be extremely helpful, though not imperative, to insert a grommet in the casing hole (to the right of the screw shown in the first pictures) to prevent the damage happening again.

The screw & grey block are no longer required, the supply cable will be a bit shorter than before.

ugoleaf · Post by **ugoleaf** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 10:08 am

arco_iris wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 9:55 am Are you able to get to, and remake, where the three wires meet the heater itself?

To get to the part where 3 wires meet the heater I will need to disassemble entire header's casing and see where wires connect there:

: 20220319_120120.jpg (133.7 KiB) Viewed 1689 times

arco_iris · Post by **arco_iris** » Sat Mar 19, 2022 10:19 am

In that case, cut those three wires in the last picture where the black outer meets them (close to the grey block) and use in-line connectors.

These connections are not going to come under any future strain, once you have tied a knot in the main cable to prevent it pulling out of the hole in the casing. Plenty of room in that compartment for this.