Shower area / uneven solid walls

schakal · Post by **schakal** » Thu Mar 31, 2022 8:45 am

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Hi All ,

I am looking for a bit of advice on this area where i want to fit a shower tray and tile the solid walls seen in photo.
I have already removed the loose plaster and re-rendered a scratch coat on.

Now the walls are still very uneven and to completely level them i need to fill more at the bottom of walls and feather it off going upwards. Some places towards the bottom i need to fill around 2.5cm.

Now my question is ,how thick can i render (in total )using sand and cement ?
Is there a maximum thickness in each pass ?
Do i need to scratch coat OR/AND prime between every coat ?
Can i tile straight over the last coat of render (after it fully dries of course )

Can i perhaps use bonding coat or another product to bring up layers then tank it using a brush on tanking kit (mapei ) before tiling over ? Or is bonding coat a complete NO NO ?

Any other recommendations tackling this job would be much appreciated :)

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Thu Mar 31, 2022 9:04 am

I think I would consider dry lining with an aquapanel type cement board. You fix battens to the wall which you scribe to get them even and level. Screw the panels to these for a level substrate for your tiling. Using this method will depend on whether you can afford to lose a few inches in the room or not.

DWD

schakal · Post by **schakal** » Thu Mar 31, 2022 9:41 am

dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 9:04 am I think I would consider dry lining with an aquapanel type cement board. You fix battens to the wall which you scribe to get them even and level. Screw the panels to these for a level substrate for your tiling. Using this method will depend on whether you can afford to lose a few inches in the room or not.

DWD

thank you.
Ideally dont want to loose the inches there as this is only an en-suite and its already small.
Am i right thinking battens will be 2x1 roofing type battens which will cost me 1 inch + thickness of cement board additionaly?

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Thu Mar 31, 2022 10:21 am

The alternative is to dot and dab fix the aqua panels and level up that way with the adhesive. Now a bit of care is needed to plot out where the shower screen panels will fix to this so you have an adhesive patch under the board to firm it up in each spot where you drill through to the wall for your screen fixing. Your original way of leveling with a render or plaster will get there but I think having straight and level cement tile board is ideal for your tile finish. Just my idea of an approach, it does not mean I am right.

DWD

adelast · Post by **adelast** » Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:42 pm

I am not an expert, but I just renovated my small ensuite and I had uneven walls too. I used some backer boards (like DWD is suggesting), they are easy to work with and waterproof. I can't think of a downside for those, you can use the ones of 1cm of thickness and tile over them without issues

schakal · Post by **schakal** » Tue Apr 05, 2022 12:14 pm

Thanks for the replies everyone . I have now dot and dabbed the shorter side of the wall with STS boards (washers will be installed once dried)
With the longer side though ,i am going to use the batten method and get the whole thing nice and level/plumb to screw STS boards onto.

Now i have another question however ;
Am i able to install a hinged shower door on this as per the positions in the attached photo ? Width and height wise there are no issues.
The door frame is around 35mm deep/thick .
If it can be fitted on this setup , how do i go about locating the stud wall in relation to the shower tray so that the door frame sits above the tray edge ?
Will my wall have to go in and over the shower tray on that side for 35mm ?

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dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Tue Apr 05, 2022 3:48 pm

It is all down to careful measurement. You have to allow for the thickness of the tile to ensure the shower frame sits correctly on the tray lip. Also make sure that the tiles sit on the tray edge to create a good run off for water. This means getting the tray situated in a position where it all lines up nicely. Frameless doors are usually designed to be hung from a secure post and if possible the door should be hung on the wall and the short panel to the front fixed to the return panel going to the wall. There are plenty of secure fixings for plasterboard and the screw will be going through a tile which helps pull the frame post up tight. It is all a bit confusing but just work it out in your mind logically and you will be okay

DWD

schakal · Post by **schakal** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 7:58 am

dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Tue Apr 05, 2022 3:48 pm It is all down to careful measurement. You have to allow for the thickness of the tile to ensure the shower frame sits correctly on the tray lip. Also make sure that the tiles sit on the tray edge to create a good run off for water. This means getting the tray situated in a position where it all lines up nicely. Frameless doors are usually designed to be hung from a secure post and if possible the door should be hung on the wall and the short panel to the front fixed to the return panel going to the wall. There are plenty of secure fixings for plasterboard and the screw will be going through a tile which helps pull the frame post up tight. It is all a bit confusing but just work it out in your mind logically and you will be okay

DWD

hi DWD , thank you .

Just to clarify one thing as i may not have asked properly ;
I am trying to fit a framed door with hinges on to this setup . i already have this door but not 100% sure it is suitable even though i know i can fit it.
So i made a little drawing (looking from the top ) of what it will look like if i fit this door i have, does it look alright?

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dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:29 am

Sorry, I am not following this? Is that a short stud wall you intend to build on the left? I cannot figure out where the wall is on the right in relation to your earlier pics? I think I have this all wrong in my mind.

DWD

schakal · Post by **schakal** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 10:43 am

dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:29 am Sorry, I am not following this? Is that a short stud wall you intend to build on the left? I cannot figure out where the wall is on the right in relation to your earlier pics? I think I have this all wrong in my mind.

DWD

yes a short wall on the left because the shower tray is 1200mm long and the door including the frame is 850mm .

the wall to the right is as per this photo drawn in red

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dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 11:21 am

I cannot see any issue other than getting the walls set so that the tiles finish neatly on the top of the tray lip. Obviously, get the stud wall timber so that the door once hung is on the lip too.

DWD

schakal · Post by **schakal** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 12:46 pm

dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 11:21 am I cannot see any issue other than getting the walls set so that the tiles finish neatly on the top of the tray lip. Obviously, get the stud wall timber so that the door once hung is on the lip too.

DWD

Thank you for the confirmation.

Sorry as , i have not seen this type of door fitted in this way before ,i thought i might be going down a wrong track here.

Like you said ,it will take me a bit of time and effort to set up the walls / distances and make them strong enough to attach my door frame but i will get there slowly :)
thanks again DWD