Isolator to CU tails and moving

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 7:22 pm

Question for the sparks out there.

I had a new cut out installed and then a week later a new meter and isolator. The downside is that the tails from the isolator to CU couldn't be touched by my man from the supplier so he had to install the isolator a lot lower than I want to use the existing tails to the CU. We want to move the CU.

So my question is, how do I go about having the CU moved.

1) get the spark to move/install a new CU in the new position with long tails to the isolator
2) get my supplier to then move the isolator to the higher up position
3) get my spark back to then shorten the tails from isolator to CU?

Would that be the way to do this?

Cheers guys.

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 7:31 pm

1
But the tails must not be more than 3 Metres

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 7:32 pm

To add, the isolator will need moving towards by roughly 2 inches. The CU will be immediately next to it.

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 7:33 pm

Someone-Else wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 7:31 pm 1
But the tails must not be more than 3 Metres

cheers but that was the order of doing things, not the options! The isolator would still need moving but it would be live from the meter which i guess is my suppliers responsibility?

Chippo1 · Post by **Chippo1** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:01 pm

If u have an isolated in the meter cupboard after meters you can have tails as long as u like as long as they are correctly rated and depending on route in PVC/SWA / PVC ARMOURED

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:21 pm

Yes it's all isolated, tail length isn't an issue. It's that the supplier couldn't touch the tails to the CU and the CU couldn't be moved until it was isolated. Catch 22. So looking on the order of things to get the result I want, which is:

1. CU moved higher up
2. Isolator moved 2 inches higher

Neelix · Post by **Neelix** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 6:08 am

Get 3 sparks round to quote ......... Almost impossible to advise over the net

Meter tails CAN be over 3 meters if protected by a switch fuse.

arco_iris · Post by **arco_iris** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 8:19 am

Where the meter tails enter the isolator, has one of the cover retaining screws got a crimped wire seal on it? I think only the supplier/DNO is authorised to break the seal, not your usual electrician. This is why the isolator cannot be moved, as the fixing screw(s) are under that cover.

OP's Point 2 - get the supplier back - could be a lot easier said than done!

Neelix · Post by **Neelix** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 10:16 am

arco_iris wrote: ↑Thu Apr 07, 2022 8:19 am Where the meter tails enter the isolator, has one of the cover retaining screws got a crimped wire seal on it? I think only the supplier/DNO is authorised to break the seal, not your usual electrician.

That’s not accurate. Some DNOs will allow CPS members to remove seals

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 12:48 pm

arco_iris wrote: ↑Thu Apr 07, 2022 8:19 am Where the meter tails enter the isolator, has one of the cover retaining screws got a crimped wire seal on it? I think only the supplier/DNO is authorised to break the seal, not your usual electrician. This is why the isolator cannot be moved, as the fixing screw(s) are under that cover.

correct, the meter side of the isolator is tagged. The only reason he put the isolator was there was that the existing tails to the CU were short and he had no choice. And my spark couldnt move the CU in advance as there was no isolator. Was a real catch22...

I guess the only option now is to get the spark to move the CU and add longer tails to the isolator. And then get the supplier back to move the isolator upwards the 2inches. And then get the spark back to make the tails the correct length. Grr

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 1:14 pm

pictures might help. See below for the actual and a frankly appalling photoshop version.
As you can see, the CU tails couldnt be touched by my supplier so he had to mount the isolator within the reach of it, and its too low for where we need it. And my spark couldnt move the CU in advance of this as it had no isolator...

: meter2.jpg (95.23 KiB) Viewed 1350 times

So to achieve what we want, i guess we need to get 1) get the spark back to add long tails to the isolator. 2) get british gas back to move the isolator up 2 inches. 3)get the spark back to shorten the tails. If anyone has any other ideas that would be excellent but i think thats what has to happen.

: meter1.jpg (81.58 KiB) Viewed 1350 times

Scotty001 · Post by **Scotty001** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 4:28 pm

Do you really NEED to move the isolator up by 2 inches?
Are you having the backboard (that meter and cons unit fixed to) cut smaller?

If not and the back board is still going to be the same size.
Why not just move the cons unit up and have the spark install the length of tail needed from the new cu position to the isolator in its current position, that way you don't need the supplier out and you don't need the spark to come back and re cut the tails from cu to isolator.

If so you will need do what you say with the addition of the suppliers meter operator (mop) to also remove the cut out fuse, take the meter and isolator off the backboard, unclip the tails (from cut out to meter) from the backboard, take backboard off the wall, wait for you to cut it to size / you have a pre cut backboard ready for the mop to refix to the wall then re fix the meter and isolator to the backboard (in the position you need the isolator) and re clip the tails to the wall.

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 5:19 pm

Yeah, it'll be a chew on... The problem is that it's now currently level with the top of the door instead of the above door installation that we were looking for. Also the new tails from the isolator to CU will bring the whole thing even lower...

arco_iris · Post by **arco_iris** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 7:38 pm

Besides what is being discussed and the ins & outs of it, the existing CU shows four t&e cables coming out of the top, lifting it will mean shortening them - no problem.

BUT it also shows two t&e cables exiting the lower left hand side. Supposing a way is found to sort out the heights and tail lengths, and raise the CU, HOW do you propose to extend these - they will not be long enough?

Have you fully thought this through?

How many mcbs in the cu? Not many circuits shown for a reasonable sized house, nothing heavy enough for cooker etc.?

Super_paulie · Post by **Super_paulie** » Thu Apr 07, 2022 9:39 pm

arco_iris wrote: ↑Thu Apr 07, 2022 7:38 pm HOW do you propose to extend these - they will not be long enough

They are. A ton of slack under the floorboards.

arco_iris wrote: ↑Thu Apr 07, 2022 7:38 pm Not many circuits shown for a reasonable sized house, nothing heavy enough for cooker etc.?

Enough for the house I live in with 2 spare. I'll upgrade to a modern unit in the near future though.

arco_iris wrote: ↑Thu Apr 07, 2022 7:38 pm Have you fully thought this through?

I just need this lot above door level and looking at the practical order of going about it.