I have a Hive heating setup with 2 zones. I live in a split level house with the main zone 1 (kitchen, living room) upstairs and bedrooms, bathroom downstairs in zone 2 . My boiler is a conventional boiler with a hot water tank. The main zone 1 controls the upstairs radiators and hot water. The downstairs zone 2 just controls the downstairs radiators. The upstairs main zone1 works perfectly fine but the downstairs zone 2 will only work if the main zone 1 is already on . If the main zone 1 is not on and I switch downstairs zone on it will not fire up the boiler but if the boiler is already on with zone 1 being on the zone 2 will work.
The system has only been installed for about 4 years. Is it that maybe the downstairs zone 2 has a faulty receiver ?
Thanks.
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Hive Heating fault.
Questions about central heating and boiler questions in here please.
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hilts1967
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Hive Heating fault.
Hi, do you have an 'S' plus plan or just two zone valves?
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aeromech3
hilts1967
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Hive Heating fault.
You have what appears an S system with 3x 2 way valves and 2 receivers. My bet as a DIY is that the down valve zone 2, is not making the open switch to fire the boiler but wait for more expert opinion.
Oh! has it worked properly during the 4 years?
Oh! has it worked properly during the 4 years?
aeromech3
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Hive Heating fault.
Yes that makes sense that it could be downstairs, zone 2 valve. It has worked perfectly fine as it should for the last 4 years.
Will wait to see if there is any more response.
Is it an easy job to replace the valve?
Thanks.
hilts1967
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Hive Heating fault.
If your Honeywell valve is only 4 years old (and has a little dimple on the lid) then it could be very easy. Assuming that, there are so many video and pdf instructions if you search "change Honeywell 2 port valve".
Now assuming the switch is not making, we could just change the electrical actuator part which would mean not having to open the plumbing.
To be sure of this, a competent person would check if power comes out on the Orange wire when the valve is open by system selection (not just the mechanical lever).
If No then need to check whether the brass spindle the actuator sits on moves easily, though less likely it could be preventing the fully open switch from making.
For me I keep a spare, as they are known to fail and my recommendation is to buy the whole valve which then covers both eventualities and can be used as a practice piece to learn 1st hand how to remove the actuator part from the brass body.
Now assuming the switch is not making, we could just change the electrical actuator part which would mean not having to open the plumbing.
To be sure of this, a competent person would check if power comes out on the Orange wire when the valve is open by system selection (not just the mechanical lever).
If No then need to check whether the brass spindle the actuator sits on moves easily, though less likely it could be preventing the fully open switch from making.
For me I keep a spare, as they are known to fail and my recommendation is to buy the whole valve which then covers both eventualities and can be used as a practice piece to learn 1st hand how to remove the actuator part from the brass body.
aeromech3
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