Modem kitchen Repairs

[xenomorph]

Hi all

So about two months ago I purchased first flat and just last month i noticed two issues with kitchen that were missed when I did viewing sadly.

First is join on worktop is uneven as in bottom half one side is slightly higher than left and the join is obvious.

PXL_20221127_170933829.jpg (224.33 KiB) Viewed 1770 times

PXL_20221127_171009044.jpg (197.09 KiB) Viewed 1770 times

Secondly the glass splashback has bit between glass and kitchen units exposed either due to crack or bad install.

PXL_20221127_171030545.jpg (157.94 KiB) Viewed 1770 times

Question is are these easy to fix and if so average cost for handyman or would I need new kitchen countertops and splashback?
It's 5 year old flat so actual kitchen units no longer produced by Paula Rosa.

Thanks

[dewaltdisney]

If you look underneath there will probably be two dog bone clamps in a cut out channel that pull the joint together See example https://www.screwfix.com/p/unika-easibo ... -pcs/99666 You may be able to slacken these and push the surface level before tightening ugain. The gap you can use colorful joint compound https://www.screwfix.com/c/bathrooms-ki ... -colorfill

Have a kook first and let us know

DWD

[xenomorph]

If you look underneath there will probably be two dog bone clamps in a cut out channel that pull the joint together See example You may be able to slacken these and push the surface level before tightening ugain. The gap you can use colorful joint compound

Have a kook first and let us know

DWD

Hi
Not sure how to look underneath that as there is dishwasher to right and small cupboard to the left after corner.

What about the splashback?

[dewaltdisney]

Hmm, sods law. Try getting a piece of straight wood over the joint and tapping it with a hammer (or a tin of beans if you are toolless) to see if that gets it level and then Colorfil. There are lots of colors to match your worktop. I could not figure out the splashback picture?

DWD

[xenomorph]

Hmm, sods law. Try getting a piece of straight wood over the joint and tapping it with a hammer (or a tin of beans if you are toolless) to see if that gets it level and then Colorfil. There are lots of colors to match your worktop. I could not figure out the splashback picture?

DWD

Ok will try that.
The third picture is splashback.
The top of the picture is underneath the kitchen cabinet. The middle is the splashback.

[dewaltdisney]

Have a look at the official site for a match https://colorfill.co.uk/

I still cannot fathom the picture can you take one further back so I can get an idea.

DWD

[arco_iris]

bad install

It is extremely difficult to get these two things absolutely perfect, I fear you are being much too critical and ought to live with it.

Any complaint should have been raised by the person who commissioned the installation years ago, they didn't and as far as the workmanship is concerned "you pay peanuts you get monkeys" - yours isn't as bad as that implies but it is not a top notch money no object job either.

In my own kitchen (from DIY Kitchens, units fitted myself) the worktops were supplied and fitted by a third party national firm booked through DIYK. The fitters used a jig with suction pads powered by a small compressor, pulled the worktops precisely in line as they were cemented and held in place while it set, apart from the pattern it is very difficult to spot the join. I do not have dog-bone clamps, and doubt that you do either, as yours appears to be a solid worktop like mine. My daughter & s.i.l. have just spent a five-figure sum on a kitchen and their worktop joint is no better than yours.

They also have glass splashbacks though I have not examined them so critically, I keep my head down and mouth shut. In your case, the gap is due to either a manufacturing tolerance in the glass (unlikley) or the slightest variation in levels (spirit or laser levels) between the worktop and the wall units. As DWD says a picture from further back - if you are going to be OCD about it, we need to see the base of the backs where they meet the tops in the corner. If that is good, then the backs are 2mm different and it's far too late now.

[xenomorph]

bad install

It is extremely difficult to get these two things absolutely perfect, I fear you are being much too critical and ought to live with it.

Any complaint should have been raised by the person who commissioned the installation years ago, they didn't and as far as the workmanship is concerned "you pay peanuts you get monkeys" - yours isn't as bad as that implies but it is not a top notch money no object job either.

In my own kitchen (from DIY Kitchens, units fitted myself) the worktops were supplied and fitted by a third party national firm booked through DIYK. The fitters used a jig with suction pads powered by a small compressor, pulled the worktops precisely in line as they were cemented and held in place while it set, apart from the pattern it is very difficult to spot the join. I do not have dog-bone clamps, and doubt that you do either, as yours appears to be a solid worktop like mine. My daughter & s.i.l. have just spent a five-figure sum on a kitchen and their worktop joint is no better than yours.

They also have glass splashbacks though I have not examined them so critically, I keep my head down and mouth shut. In your case, the gap is due to either a manufacturing tolerance in the glass (unlikley) or the slightest variation in levels (spirit or laser levels) between the worktop and the wall units. As DWD says a picture from further back - if you are going to be OCD about it, we need to see the base of the backs where they meet the tops in the corner. If that is good, then the backs are 2mm different and it's far too late now.

It was installed by developer and owner who purchased it brand-new was overseas investor who put it on rent right away so that's why it was not looked at most likely.

Here is picture from further back.

PXL_20221127_212853524.jpg (162.03 KiB) Viewed 1735 times

[arco_iris]

Noooo... need to see the base, against the worktop, behind all your crap (please move it).

Are right and left level at the base (splashbacks different sizes) or similarly adrift (poor installation).

[xenomorph]

Noooo... need to see the base, against the worktop, behind all your crap (please move it).

Are right and left level at the base (splashbacks different sizes) or similarly adrift (poor installation).

Oh sorry lol
The base area look level and no gap between splashback and wall

PXL_20221127_225752950.jpg (137.45 KiB) Viewed 1729 times

[arco_iris]

Then that appears that the right hand panel is 2mm larger than the left hand one, nothing you can do about that. A bead of properly applied silicone would improve the appearance, but as very few people will actually bend down and look up there, why bother.

[dewaltdisney]

You use Colorfil for the worktop and for the splash back gap use coloured silicone like Mapaei https://www.screwfix.com/search?search= ... ed+sealant pick a colour to either match the metallic bead or the splash back.

DWD

[xenomorph]

Thanks all
May leave the splashback and get someone in to see if they can fix the uneven worktop next summer maybe.

[fin]

You use Colorfil for the worktop and for the splash back gap use coloured silicone like Mapaei <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">https://www.screwfix.com/search?search= ... lant</span> pick a colour to either match the metallic bead or the splash back.

DWD

those worktops appear to be stone dwd not laminate.

[dewaltdisney]

Blimey Fin, now I have looked on my laptop I think they are, not a good idea to thump them then . That is the trouble with looking at posts on your phone, you can miss detail. I did not give it much thought as it looked like a new build contract kitchen fit which rarely have stone work tops. I think I would fill the gap with coloured Mapei silicone, which would make it look better and seal it.

DWD