I have a "normally greasy" emulsioned kitchen ceiling to paint and intend (prior to painting) to "clean /degrease" it using some Zinsser Universal Degreaser and Cleaner that I already have.
Following this what is the recommended most effective "primer" to use (prior to emulsion) that will "block" any possible chance of any residual grease "showing through" ?
Many thanks.
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Kitchen Ceiling Primer Query
Painting and decorating, plaster mouldings, Artexing questions
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Kitchen Ceiling Primer Query
Post by Tom d'Angler »
I would say Zinsser Bulls Eye 123.
I recently used it on kitchen walls that had lots of grease spots and it was perfect.
I recently used it on kitchen walls that had lots of grease spots and it was perfect.
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Kitchen Ceiling Primer Query
Post by rautospoon »
Thanks for that.Tom d'Angler wrote: ↑Tue Jan 31, 2023 6:14 am I would say Zinsser Bulls Eye 123.
I recently used it on kitchen walls that had lots of grease spots and it was perfect.
Is there any preference / difference in performance between 123 and 123+ ?
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Kitchen Ceiling Primer Query
Post by Tom d'Angler »
dynamod recently suggested the 123+ to me for a specific job but I accidentally ordered the 123 instead and it worked perfectly. So, to answer your question, no idearautospoon wrote: ↑Tue Jan 31, 2023 8:01 am Is there any preference / difference in performance between 123 and 123+ ?

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Kitchen Ceiling Primer Query
From zinssers website
Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 is great for blocking stains. It permanently and completely seals graffiti, grease spots, tar and asphalt - inside and out. For oil and water stains, fire and smoke damage try our next generation Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 Plus.
Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 is rust inhibitive and ideal for new metal. It resists flash rusting in its "wet" state - and provides rust resistance for the life of the coating. It dries to a smooth, tight, water-resistant film that is perfect for painting iron railings, steel doors, metal panels, duct work, galvanised gutters - any interior or exterior metal surface.
123 plus apparently isn't suitable for ferrous metal
Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 Plus delivers unparalleled adhesion and deals effortlessly with hard to paint interior and exterior substrates such as glossy surfaces, ceramic tiles, non-ferrous metal (such as aluminium, stainless steel and galvanised metal), vinyl, hardboard, melamine, varnish, plastic, GRP, UPVC, wood, masonry and more.
https://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3/
https://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3-plus/
Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 is great for blocking stains. It permanently and completely seals graffiti, grease spots, tar and asphalt - inside and out. For oil and water stains, fire and smoke damage try our next generation Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 Plus.
Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 is rust inhibitive and ideal for new metal. It resists flash rusting in its "wet" state - and provides rust resistance for the life of the coating. It dries to a smooth, tight, water-resistant film that is perfect for painting iron railings, steel doors, metal panels, duct work, galvanised gutters - any interior or exterior metal surface.
123 plus apparently isn't suitable for ferrous metal
Bulls Eye® 1-2-3 Plus delivers unparalleled adhesion and deals effortlessly with hard to paint interior and exterior substrates such as glossy surfaces, ceramic tiles, non-ferrous metal (such as aluminium, stainless steel and galvanised metal), vinyl, hardboard, melamine, varnish, plastic, GRP, UPVC, wood, masonry and more.
https://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3/
https://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3-plus/
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Kitchen Ceiling Primer Query
Very little from what I've seen.
The 123+ appears initially, to have improved opacity over the standard BE123, but fades back very aggressively (goes semi-transparent) upon drying. It's a niggle more than an outright problem, but the previous version didn't behave this way.
That said, it's adhesion and stain blocking are reckoned by many to be improved, though in real world terms, it's all a bit subjective for my liking. Thorough preparation and cleaning are still the belt and braces way to good results. Any aggressive stains may need a touch of shellac first, just to be safe
In all honesty, either will work OK, providing your prep is sound.
On the subject of priming metals - I'd still be looking to use either zinc phosphate, calcium plumbate or Owatrol oil as metal primers. Zinsser play it quite fast and loose with their recommended uses and substrate list, and a recurring theme on here for years was these problem solving primers aren't a substitute for actual preparation, but rather a compliment to it. One of my wee gripes at the company, actually.
The 123+ appears initially, to have improved opacity over the standard BE123, but fades back very aggressively (goes semi-transparent) upon drying. It's a niggle more than an outright problem, but the previous version didn't behave this way.
That said, it's adhesion and stain blocking are reckoned by many to be improved, though in real world terms, it's all a bit subjective for my liking. Thorough preparation and cleaning are still the belt and braces way to good results. Any aggressive stains may need a touch of shellac first, just to be safe
In all honesty, either will work OK, providing your prep is sound.

On the subject of priming metals - I'd still be looking to use either zinc phosphate, calcium plumbate or Owatrol oil as metal primers. Zinsser play it quite fast and loose with their recommended uses and substrate list, and a recurring theme on here for years was these problem solving primers aren't a substitute for actual preparation, but rather a compliment to it. One of my wee gripes at the company, actually.
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