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dewaltdisney
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Post by dewaltdisney »

I have a Skil jigsaw and I rarely use it, it is in an almost new condition. I had a use for it today and I cut one part and put it down and 10 minutes later it would not start. I changed the fuse but no joy, it was working perfectly before. I had to make do with my reciprocating saw which was bloody hard to control and I wished I had used my mini chainsaw but I got done what I wanted.

Any idea where to start, I am thinking of taking the side off to check the cable connections, the plug end is molded but looks fine.

Bloody jigsaws I hate them.

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big-all
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Post by big-all »

have tried pulling/pushing the blade to rotate the armature a bit unplugged off course in case the commutator is glazed over
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Someone-Else
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Post by Someone-Else »

Just saying............
eb.jpg
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Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
dewaltdisney
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Post by dewaltdisney »

I will try that BA but it was working perfectly, I set it down and it would not work a few minutes later. I take the point SE and I will go down that road if I have to but this saw is like brand new it has had so little use even though it is probably 12 years old. I will have a play around with it tomorrow. This is similar to mine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voH7BKJ2sGw

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Post by Someone-Else »

I understand the why................. I would however suggest putting on a clean surface and remove all fixings, open it carfully and take a picture, then I would look for broken wires. (My money is on a motor wire that has litterally snapped)
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dewaltdisney (Sat Aug 05, 2023 6:52 pm)
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Above are my opinions Below is my signature.

Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

:mrgreen: If gloom had a voice, it would be me.

:idea1: Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section :-)
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Post by fin »

upgrade to a battery jigsaw dwd. although mine also doesnt get used a huge amount i do use it to scribe end panels on kitchens.

ive got a corded festool carvex thats sat in its systainer for probably the last 5 years ha.
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dewaltdisney (Sun Aug 06, 2023 9:22 am)
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fin
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Post by fin »

ohh and also i would check the switch. ages ago i was using a corded hammer drill for some reasdon. it had also had little use. it was working fine then i picked it back up and nothing. turned out to be the switch
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dewaltdisney (Sun Aug 06, 2023 9:22 am)
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Post by dewaltdisney »

I started pulling it apart yesterday and I was struggling to separate the halves after taking all the screws out. I was getting near to smashing it to death with my club hammer, but Mrs D wanted to go out so I left it. I will have another look today perhaps.

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Post by big-all »

now i know you know all these points but a tick list may help

look at things like cable grip and blade release mechanism may be in tension but needs relaxing
hidden screws behind stuck on ratings plates or rubberized added protection are a favourite use the blunt end off a pencil and rub over to find the dimple
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Post by dewaltdisney »

Thanks all, it was very hard to move the blade up and down and I got it to drop a bit but that is it so I suspect that the motor might be seized. I had a look at a Youtube video and I have a few ideas now on how to strip it. Of course, it might help if I knew what I was doing :lol: I will keep you posted.

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Post by aeromech3 »

Mostly the trigger micro switch is the guilty party, I usually check continuity from plug to contacts before the switch (fuse is good?) then as they are usually double pole, in that they operate to open both positive and negative, I check across the switch for continuity when operated.
I have replaced these switches on mine Bro and B in L but takes a bit of research like example V-15-1C25 cheap as chips if you wait from China, but available in UK for not much more
Unlikely burnt depending on the position of the blade mechanism will depend on whether it can be manually moved; I have noticed this when trying to fit mine back into the carry case with blade in position, sometimes it will retract others no.
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Post by dewaltdisney »

I finally got it apart, what a puzzle. BA was right 3 hidden screws behind a clip on metal part that was not obvious at all. I am thinking now that Fin's suggestion that it is the switch might be quite possible as there are no broken wires and it is all very clean. I will firstly connect a test power cable to eliminate the original cord having a defect. I am losing heart

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Post by big-all »

when it stopped did it falter or spark or just stop dead ??
if its been stored in a damp cold shed over winter the brushes can glaze over so try polishing the commutator with nothing more abrasive than metal polish
the brushes with fine emery or similar to deglaze the surface
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Post by dewaltdisney »

The thing is it worked perfectly for 10mins. I put it down and it was dead when I went to use it a few moments later. The commutator looks brand new, clean, no marks. I will have a play.

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Post by big-all »

a faltering sparky finish is the awkward one to sort :lol:
go------ stop is normally really really easy as open circuit --dead easy to sort ---normally :cb
we are all ------------------still learning
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