What do I do here? Scribe or not?

Argyll · Post by **Argyll** » Wed Nov 08, 2023 5:08 pm

I'm just getting to the end of fitting the cabinets. Through my own fault at dot and dabbing I have quite a large bow in the back wall. At it's deepest point there's a 12mm gap. Should I scribe the worktop to fit the gap? I personally don't see the benefit of scribing. I think I'm best just leaving the gap and fill in the gap when I'm tiling.

Opinions please?

oz0707 · Post by **oz0707** » Wed Nov 08, 2023 7:50 pm

How strange to hear someone's voice after only seeing their typing!

Tiles and a bed is about 7mm minimum. Rather than scribe in properly you might just be better off roughly scribing to take the worktop 5mm further back, not closing the whole gap. Of course then you get into the realm of changing the overhang at front, unless you start ripping backs of base cabs down. Not unheard of but dodgy with built in oven along that wall. Or ripping other worktop 5mm too. Basically 5mm is a small enough amount not to alter things drastically. Square the worktop overhang off the cabinets at either end, get a 5mm packer, run it along wall with pencil to give you your mark. Cut with rail saw or down cutting jigsaw.

oz0707 · Post by **oz0707** » Wed Nov 08, 2023 7:50 pm

Fin be along soon he might be more knowledgeable in this dept.

Argyll · Post by **Argyll** » Wed Nov 08, 2023 9:07 pm

I've just had an idea about cutting out some of the plasterboard and sliding the worktop in about ten millimetres. This would close the gap.

Has anyone ever did this?

oz0707 · Post by **oz0707** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 6:09 am

Ive knocked the plaster off before yeh. Whatever is easier for u

Ktuludays · Post by **Ktuludays** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 7:03 am

Personally I'd take some plasterboard off and sink it into the wall slightly to reduce that gap.

Razor · Post by **Razor** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 7:09 am

Personally I would float the bow out with bonding and a straight edge. Otherwise you are just moving the problem from fitting the worktop to the tiling.

The other option is just to bang the worktop back hard against the plasterboard. Just ram it in 5mm or so and the tiles will cover the gap - you will regret it when tiling though lol

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 10:25 am

my thoughts plan on tapering half the hollows out when tiling
i would avoid cutting into the plasterboard personally as it is removing the front paper skin on the board think off how you cut plasterboard front paper layer and just fold ??
now realise it will still have most strength and tiles will help to reinforce a lot but as you have a choice
and remember scribing eats into your overhang at the front

also worth mentioning hollows can effect the way the cabinets hang and whilst you can wedge out the cabinets gaps too big will show all be it not too visible underneath
aaaaannnd i first heard argyles voice on a thread about a battery powered bit off street furniture several years ago

Argyll · Post by **Argyll** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 10:44 am

big-all wrote: ↑Thu Nov 09, 2023 10:25 am i first heard argyles voice on a thread about a battery powered bit off street furniture several years ago

I'm actually a cockney. I just put the Jockanese accent on

Argyll · Post by **Argyll** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 10:46 am

Razor wrote: ↑Thu Nov 09, 2023 7:09 am Personally I would float the bow out with bonding and a straight edge. Otherwise you are just moving the problem from fitting the worktop to the tiling.

The other option is just to bang the worktop back hard against the plasterboard. Just ram it in 5mm or so and the tiles will cover the gap - you will regret it when tiling though lol

Yeah I thought about that but I think it best to knock out some plasterboard and slide the worktop in a few mm
. I think I'll get some one in to do the tiling so he knows what he's doing when packing it out. I've never tiled before.

fin · Post by **fin** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 5:25 pm

what size are your worktops?

howdens are 616mm so a bit of a bigger overhang than standard 600mm tops. so that makes scribing them a bit easier to do and much less obvious from the front.

what about screwing some cememnt tile backer board to the wall to take up some of the gap or as said above floating it out a bit,.

if this was a howdens kitchen but with standard non howdens 600mm deep worktops its a bit of a disaster trying to scribe the tops in. you very quickly lose any overhang you might have

oz0707 · Post by **oz0707** » Thu Nov 09, 2023 7:10 pm

For 5mm i think scribing the worktop is the easiest option. Tiles and silicone line will probably be closer to 9mm when done especially if you get the tiler to split the difference and bring the bow out a bit

fin · Post by **fin** » Fri Nov 10, 2023 12:35 am

haha im geet fussy on the overhang like.

i was gutted on a kitchen a while back when it was 2mm out along the length of the room the walls were all owa like and id messed on having to fetch the cabinets off the wall for some reason or antoher.... mind you it was a knocking on 5 meter run of cabinets like

Argyll · Post by **Argyll** » Sat Nov 11, 2023 7:50 pm

I knocked out most of the plasterboard and slid the worktop in about 5mm. I still have an overhang. I'm just going to get a tiler in. He says he'll come out on Monday and bond out the bow and start tiling on Tuesday. That depends on his price though which he's giving me tomorrow.