Do I remove (how?) or secure this door

wackojacko · Post by **wackojacko** » Tue Feb 27, 2024 7:33 pm

Hi there Wise Handymen,

I'm doing a little refurbishment of my office.

I want to brickslip (brick face tiles) one of the walls.

On said wall, there is an old door which originally went into the adjacent office.

The door has been "deactivated?", turning the handle does nothing and I cannot open it. It is plastered over in the adjacent office.

I've removed the skirting and door frame. The tiler wants a flat surface to tile onto, therefore, I will need to either:

- Remove door completely, then board over that area flush to the rest of the wall.
- Retain door, but affix permanently in place, whilst removing the jutting out hinges & handle

My questions are:

- Is option A or B better?
- How do I do option A? How do I remove door if can't open it? Attack door/handle with hammer etc?
- How do I do option B? What would I use to glue door into place? How would I remove hinges & handle?

Any advice that can be given would be appreciated,

Kind Regards,

Jack

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Tue Feb 27, 2024 7:47 pm

Remove the door and frame. Build a new frame leaving space for the plasterboard outer face to sit flush. Put some insulation in to retain heat and stop sound transfer. A few cross rails or noggins will help.

DWD

aeromech3 · Post by **aeromech3** » Wed Feb 28, 2024 11:18 am

Accepting the deactivation did not close off a fire escape route?

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Wed Feb 28, 2024 5:24 pm

Should you not consult the landlord first?

wackojacko · Post by **wackojacko** » Wed Feb 28, 2024 11:07 pm

dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2024 7:47 pm Remove the door and frame. Build a new frame leaving space for the plasterboard outer face to sit flush. Put some insulation in to retain heat and stop sound transfer. A few cross rails or noggins will help.

DWD

Thank mate, I'll do exactly this. Guess I gently pry the door/frame out somehow with my crowbar

wackojacko · Post by **wackojacko** » Wed Feb 28, 2024 11:08 pm

aeromech3 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2024 11:18 am Accepting the deactivation did not close off a fire escape route?

I don't believe so, and the door was already deactivated before me anyway (presumably by the Landlord, who was one of the previous tenants himself)

wackojacko · Post by **wackojacko** » Wed Feb 28, 2024 11:10 pm

Someone-Else wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2024 5:24 pm Should you not consult the landlord first?

It's a "FIR" lease (full insuring and repair) meaning I am responsible for all maintenance/works, and have a lot more freedom as to what reasonable alterations I deem to make. Standard apparently with commercial leases, as business typically need to make significant alterations to fit their specific needs

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Wed Feb 28, 2024 11:18 pm

If you can lay your hands on a reciprocating saw it will help with the frame removal. Cheap enough https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb881 ... 240v/282vv plus a few blades.

DWD

Bob225 · Post by **Bob225** » Thu Feb 29, 2024 11:26 am

it looks simple enough, the frame looks to do be inset, cut the pins on the door and knock them out

second thoughts looking at those hinges, it looks to be a fire door

wackojacko · Post by **wackojacko** » Thu Feb 29, 2024 1:58 pm

I think I'll buy the reciprocating saw mentioned, and use this cut around the handle/lock. Then the door should swing open, giving me better access/purchase to dismantle the rest of the door/frame

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Thu Feb 29, 2024 3:10 pm

I think on reflection the best thing would be to fit crossrails over the door and fix plasterboard to that. Careful measurements should see it sitting flush. That way there is no naking good to the rear and you achieve your flush wall. It also means it can easily reverse if needed in the future.

DWD