Bath Replacement - Weighing Options

[sup3rjaw]

Hey folks, posting here because I have read some very useful posts about bath installation or replacement, usually in the case where there are tiles floor to ceiling already - in nearly every case removing or cutting tiles has been the preferred option (as opposed to butting the bath up to the tiles) and for good reason.

Slightly different situation I've got. The house came with one of these pathetic 'eco' baths - basically half as deep as your regular bath. It doesn't even cover me when fully submerged and I'm fairly slight. Anyway, got a normal bath second hand but this presents two options due to the depth of the new bath being too low to the floor to acommmodate the trap (even a low-profile one as there is only 20mm left between the drain/overflow and the floor). Option are:

1) Partially remove the floor to accommodate the trap. Obviously this removes the ability to easily drain the trap should this be necessary but, on the plus side, the tub will sit below the existing line of the tiles.
2) Raise the battening and feet to accommodate the trap, but the level of the tiles will be too high. I could either remove a whole tile and then mosaic down to the height of the new bath or remove partial tile.

In all honesty this is an aspect of DIY I haven't yet had to tackle - removing and replacing is fine, modifying not so much, so I would appreciate your views on which of these options is preferred as I don't know if I've thought of everything. Thanks.

[dewaltdisney]

Can you post some photos, it might be a case of getting the levels under the bath to meet the tile line above.

DWD

[sup3rjaw]

Can you post some photos, it might be a case of getting the levels under the bath to meet the tile line above.

DWD

Sure.

IMG_20240130_213035.jpg (219.41 KiB) Viewed 800 times

IMG_20240130_212857.jpg (126.98 KiB) Viewed 800 times

IMG_20240130_212830.jpg (178.34 KiB) Viewed 800 times

[Razor]

You can get ultra low traps which might allow you to modify things above floor level

https://victoriaplum.com/browse/all-plu ... RkEALw_wcB

[sup3rjaw]

You can get ultra low traps which might allow you to modify things above floor level

Yeah that product is the same profile as the trap I've got - it's about twice too big (requires 40mm+ clearance, 20mm is available). Other products I've seen are lower profile but do not include overflow. Hence the conundrum.

[dewaltdisney]

The problem I see is that the chipboard floor under appears to have a possible joist under indicated by the joint line. If you cut an opening in the floor to facililiatae the plumbing the joist may well impede the pipe and it is not ideal to have notches cut out of a joist under a bath where you have weight from water and a body. It may be possible to sister the joist in that area to increase the strength of joist in that area to allow for a notch. The trap Razor linked fixed to the existing pipe would give you the overflow but the other issues might cause problems. I think the safest way is to chip off a course of tiles raise the bath using the levelling legs to give you the room you need. The tiles are fairly easy to match and you would be able to make good.

DWD

[sup3rjaw]

The problem I see is that the chipboard floor under appears to have a possible joist under indicated by the joint line.

That is something I was worried about, thanks for confirming. Better get myself a disc cutter and some protection!

[aeromech3]

Why would you need a disc cutter if taking a whole line of tiles; I would just score the grout line and tap a chisel under the lower edge of the tile you want to release, a wide bolster to remove the old adhesive, but hey, plenty of YouTube and more advice from the guys above.
What is the wall, solid or dry wall?
Your frame work looks good, shame you have to modify; are you going to fix a batten along the wall to support that edge which is what I have done in the past.
I removed my own bath and put a shower tray 1700 long in its place, but 100mm off the floor level, reason being stepping over the edge to get in and out of a bath in my 70's was getting more risky Handling a 1700mm tray was not easy (even with 2 of us and large sucker handles).

[stevei]

I would take a row of tiles off. Less mess and you will be able to buy 6 inch white tiles to make good.

[aeromech3]

Forgot to ask, which way does the bath white pipe drain run to the stack,?
Reason: mine ran under the length of the bath and I shortened it and moved it to the accessible side of the new shower base, if yours does same you could lift the floor and turn it 180* to the present if that allowed you to keep the bath height.

[sup3rjaw]

Why would you need a disc cutter if taking a whole line of tiles

That is a very good point! Forgetting my own plan. The initial thought was to cut, so I've been fixated on that a bit. Full tiles should be easier and less messy.

What is the wall, solid or dry wall?

Yep, dry wall. Hopefully the tile adhesive won't take off any plaster as there's a kind of paper-thin layer on the outside of the dry wall they used - allowed me to remove the old bath while keeping the plaster intact so far.

Are you going to fix a batten along the wall to support that edge which is what I have done in the past.

The thought has crossed my mind - makes sense given the increased capacity of the bath and it can only help. Just need to find the struts behind the wall.

I removed my own bath and put a shower tray 1700 long in its place, but 100mm off the floor level, reason being stepping over the edge to get in and out of a bath in my 70's was getting more risky Handling a 1700mm tray was not easy (even with 2 of us and large sucker handles).

Luckily it's not metal so I can handle it on my own.

[sup3rjaw]

Thank you everyone, diamond disc cutter worked a treat (despite the dust) and the bath is now securely fitted and settled. Mission accomplished!

[dewaltdisney]

Thanks for letting us know.

DWD