Buggered up my Potterton.

Puma · Post by **Puma** » Sun May 05, 2024 2:01 pm

Hello,

Potterton Gold 28 HE

I thought my diverter valve was sticking as it has done in the past, so I took off the actuator and prodded the rod down a few times to loosen it up. I also sprayed a bit of wd40 in the actuator and down into the rod area. Then I put it back together with the sliding clop and it does not start. If I try and start it I get a few 'PINK' sounds with a couple of second gap between them then a 133 error which is 'something stopping the boiler firing up'. Any idea what to do?

Thanks

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Sun May 05, 2024 4:21 pm

It's times like this when you hope Razor looks in. My first thought was a water pressure issue or an airlock. To my scant knowledge the valve should not interfere with the boiler firing up it is a valve that senses the pressure difference when there is a demand for hot water and it shuts the hot water to the radiators to allow hot water to the taps. The main problem is the valve actuator road that can get sticky and it might be time to change that, they are only £15 on eBay. However your issue may relate to screwing the valve back in as water in the system may interefere with it seating properly. As you screw it in you push the button on the top nut (if there is one) that allows the water to equalise and the valve to seat properly. I don't know if this will help?

DWD

Puma · Post by **Puma** » Mon May 06, 2024 10:14 am

Thanks DWD I will have a look at that.

aeromech3 · Post by **aeromech3** » Mon May 06, 2024 10:36 am

Tried to have a look at the boiler manuals, but for the 1st time got a : "You don't have permission to access this resource".
Tried several times after login but got same message, perhaps a Moderator knows why?
Anyhow Puma, about what year and I can research the web until Razor has time.
Using WD40 near rubber seals or similar is inadvisable as likely to cause swelling, only good on metal parts IMO.

moderator2 · Post by **moderator2** » Mon May 06, 2024 12:04 pm

aeromech3, I can see no reason why you are getting that message.

aeromech3 · Post by **aeromech3** » Mon May 06, 2024 4:02 pm

Thanks Moderator2, still same even tried my laptop but message same when I try to open the pdf for any boiler, I use Linux and Firefox, but was not a problem before.
Puma, you have tried "Turn the selector switch to Reset for 5 seconds".
At a wild guess the overheat switch, possible the connections are loose or contaminated from your work inside case.
You did switch the gas back on!
Any other codes?

moderator2 · Post by **moderator2** » Mon May 06, 2024 4:21 pm

try these https://www.ultimatehandyman.org/PDF/Po ... manual.pdf and
https://www.ultimatehandyman.org/PDF/Po ... manual.pdf

I'm using microsoft edge and no issues. Just tried it on Firefox as an unregistered user. The PDF still opened :dunno:

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Mon May 06, 2024 4:38 pm

Just saying................

: p1.jpg (17.82 KiB) Viewed 495 times

I get the above message too, I too am using fire fox BUT

If I use chrome ....................

: img2.jpg (26.63 KiB) Viewed 495 times

There is something "wrong" in the url, give me a while and I hope to figure it out (No, not a computer geek, I have just seen something)

Someone-Else · Post by **Someone-Else** » Mon May 06, 2024 5:43 pm

update: I saw something change in the url, (too quick) I deleted the s from https in desperation, now I can't not see the pdf. :dunno:

aeromech3 · Post by **aeromech3** » Mon May 06, 2024 9:06 pm

Mod2 and S-E, I deleted the s in the links mod2 gave and can see the pdf

Same for any boiler by route of index, if I remove the s form https hit enter I see the pdf even though the address shows https

Might be firefox from a recent update.
Well done S-E to spot that (thinks but how).
Waiting for Puma?

Puma · Post by **Puma** » Tue Jun 18, 2024 8:47 pm

Hi there, sorry for forgetting about this post. In fact this is quite a tale of me being a dumbass.

I got someone into have a look. Probably the grumpiest boiler man in Bristol, but he did find the error - I had knocked off an air pipe that was somehow essential to get the boiler to fire up as I was lubing the diverter. First problem fixed.

But the diverter still wouldn't work and actually it turned out to be quite an interesting. I changed all of the wearable parts in the diverter with bits from ebay. Still no joy at which point a pal of mine who is great boiler man was available. He discovered that there is a really bad design flaw with the diverter valve in that you only have to give the top of it an extra half turn and the whole thing doesn't work. So this must happen all the time as the washers compress as they get old and all you have to do is tighten it up to a reasonable tightness and it will push the internal rod down too far opening both the heating and the hot water at the same time. Lesson learnt. He ended up grinding a little bit off the rod to compensate for the squashed washer. Top man. Thanks anyway folks.