230vAC, 112vDC & 18vDC mountable work light

[FLANMAN0704]

I wanted a work light that was multi functional, that I could plug in another the mains, my car, or a tool battery. However these all run on different voltages and so blossomed the idea. I got an electrical box and installed a 220v to 12v dc converter and a dc step down converter. Installed a switch and put on a pole clamp for use on my laser pole.

[Someone-Else]

I admire you thinking, but what is to stop it back feeding, which will cause problems in the future, or worse still a fire.

This is NOTHING PERSONAL, as I do NOT KNOW YOU:

Just because it works, does not mean it is safe.

Me, I use a "head light" (Light that goes on your head)

The problem with your configuration is as you have multiple inputs connected in parallel if (Unbeknown to you) an odd nail, piece of wire etc gets into one of the "plugs" when you power it via another option it can back feed, short out and overheat causing a fire.
Also the "lashings" of insulation tape you have, can and do hide any worn or damaged cables. (No, not instantly, but over time.)
The junction box, it is not suitable for your use as it does not have "stuffing glands" which would give strain relief and support to the cables.

As I said "This is NOTHING PERSONAL, as I do NOT KNOW YOU" But you have posted it on a public forum.

[FLANMAN0704]

No problem at all but this is why I have added it to a public forum for feedback. It is after all a prototype and looking for helpful criticism or improvements.

Firstly let me address the issue of back feeding. Simply waiting for my switch to arrive.

Secondly not a single peice of insulation tape used! Some heat shrink... Or maybe you are referring to the wiring loom tape I use on my motorcycle? Made specifically for that purpose...

Thirdly I honestly didn't see anything wrong with the box I'm using please elaborate. As for the glands again I'm just waiting for parts and as a precaution I knotted the wires temporarily to stop accidently tugging a wire loose

Lastly you'll notice it does have fuses so these will blow if there is any short to which your referring in unlikely scenario a nail gets in there, and please don't forget that 99% of this project is low voltage under 20v dc.....

I am not an electrician so again if you have safer alternatives ( not a head light) I'm all ears

[Someone-Else]

Click me for stuffing glands.

A cable with a knot tied in it might look ok, but pull it hard enough it can go through the blind grommet you have, taking the grommet with it.

Although you think it's OK/safe because you are running it at 20v it's not the voltage you have to worry about, it's the current.

Fuse.jpg (14.58 KiB) Viewed 103 times

Above is a fuse, you can clearly see it has 1A printed on it. The A stands for Amps (It's actually Ampere) Amps is the measurement of current. The fuse will "blow" if too much current flows. You can easily have 10A flowing at 20v
I am sure you must know what an arc welder is. Arc welders (The output side) are anything between 10v and 100v but they can produce 150+ amps It's the current that does the work not the voltage.

I see lever connectors, no fuses.

As for alternatives there are lots out there. As I first said, I admire you for what you are doing even if it is dangerous, but doing it by adding this bit to that bit, then finding out you need one of those, oh, two of those, is "fun" from the project side of it, but it often costs more in the long run.

[big-all]

ryobi actually do amazing variety off space lighting options most with at least 2 levels off lumins some with 3 between say £30 and a ton
the main areas lights i have is 100/300/900 lums 415/830lums 800/1500/3000 i also have a250/1000 and a few other but all self contained from quite compact to very compact and can be hung and or angled 'fairly water-resistant so an adaption whilst admirable as giving flexibility voltage wise greatly reduces the practicality and usefulness in an instant change off position situation

as an aside do not buy anything ryobi unless a 40% discount as well overpriced now

[FLANMAN0704]

The knot as explained already is temporary and bigger than the hole not the grommet, so can't go anywhere.

I know it's not the voltage and you should also know it's milliamps coming out the controller for an LED not hundreds of amps. So because you can't see the fuses they aren't there..... Look again I can see at least 1 in the picture.

As for electrical arcs again I revert to my last explanation of milliamps good luck welding a jelly baby to a midget jem.

However upon reflection I could probably do with installing some inline resistors as a precaution on the input side of things as a secondary failsafe as if I did have a 5.0ah 18v battery connected which is likely as I have plenty of them then these could produce up to 100amps... Which should pop the 3amp inline fuse however not the end of the world to put in some resistors. I'll have to do some calculations.

Wouldn't that have been easier to suggest a solution rather than coming up with problems!